Share your alignment specs

So, as a few of you know, my alignment, specifically my rear camber, got whacked out when I installed my Eibach Pro Kit springs. I ordered a set of ISC Suspension V2 adjustable rear lower control arms to remedy the excessive camber. I'll be going for another alignment on Friday after these are installed.

 

So, what are your alignment specs? What would you suggest for a DD?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/24/zadydu6e.jpg

 

Edit megan coilovers and a bunch of suspension mods check my build thread...

Edited April 23, 2014 by SpidermanMTL

RCE Blacks + Bilstein Combo

 

Front Toe L/R @ 0.00

Front Camber L/R @ -1.4

 

Rear Toe L/R @ 0.00

Rear Camber L/R @ -1.7 ~ -1.8

 

With any aftermarket shocks/inserts/coilovers and a drop around 1", some negative camber won't hurt (stay 'below' -2.0). Either same negative camber all-around, slightly more up front or slightly more in the rear.

 

Dialing in toe all-around to 0.00 made a significant positive difference in how she handles!

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4799054&postcount=9708

 

Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing which doubles as caster adjustment. OEM was stuck at 5.5 degrees, I believe.

 

Cusco adjustable LCA and GT-Spec adjustable toe arm for Rear wheels. Camber would have certainly been off without the LCA, and the toe arm was maxed out.

 

With these alignment specs, please note that I have a 26mm FSB and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at the stiffer setting and the 3.6R has a 45/55 F/R power bias vs LGT and 2.5i which have a 50/50 bias.

Edited April 23, 2014 by fredrik94087

I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting?

 

I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Yes, that would be perfect Chris.

You can also try the inverse (-1.4 to -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 back).

 

Yes, the FSB/RSB setup is fine. I have the same exact setup and dial-in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4799054&postcount=9708

 

Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing which doubles as caster adjustment. OEM was stuck at 5.5 degrees, I believe.

 

Cusco adjustable LCA and GT-Spec adjustable toe arm for Rear wheels. Camber would have certainly been off without the LCA, and the toe arm was maxed out.

 

With these alignment specs, please note that I have a 26mm FSB and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at the stiffer setting and the 3.6R has a 45/55 F/R power bias vs LGT and 2.5i which have a 50/50 bias.

 

How do you like having more negative camber in the front?

Going in for alignment tomorrow... I'll ask for the report and post.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Attached

How do you like having more negative camber in the front?

 

It worked with 255's and it's working great with 275's.

Yes, that would be perfect Chris.

You can also try the inverse (-1.4 to -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 back).

 

Yes, the FSB/RSB setup is fine. I have the same exact setup and dial-in.

 

 

Getting an alignment tomorrow at the dealer... Can I just request these values? Do I get it aligned and see what the values come out to be?... Any input would be appreciated. Never really thought of what went into alignment, I always thought you went with what you got.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sure you can request them.

 

Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around.

Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking.

 

Stock suspension you can only affect the front camber, and if need be, using camber bolts to dial in or out more.

 

For the rear you cant adjust it without new control arms, or camber caster adjust bushings.

Getting an alignment tomorrow at the dealer... Can I just request these values? Do I get it aligned and see what the values come out to be?... Any input would be appreciated. Never really thought of what went into alignment, I always thought you went with what you got.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I always thought the same thing too. I would just bring it in, let them do their thing, get a printout and make sure all of the boxes were green, and go on my merry way.

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Yes sure you can request them.

 

Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around.

Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking.

 

Stock suspension you can only affect the front camber, and if need be, using camber bolts to dial in or out more.

 

For the rear you cant adjust it without new control arms, or camber caster adjust bushings.

 

 

Understood....I am running newly installed Bilstein Struts with Eibach springs wrapped around them. I am about 20mm lower than stock right now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As I told Chris, with my last set of tires, one of the tires wore faster than the other three, and it wore on the inside while being in the back. I may be having the same negative camber issue in the rear passenger that some others are having with lowering springs. Tomorrow will tell.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man this forum is addictive!!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting?

 

I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

Not a good alignment. The camber specs you proposed will lead to an understeering car.

 

Basically, you want more negative camber in the front than rear. McPherson strut cars lose negative camber very quickly through their motion range. The double wishbone (or multilink, same difference) in the rear will lose negative camber much slower than the front mcstrut.

 

So with the camber specs you proposed, while cornering your front outside tire (the tire that does the most cornering work) may actually lose enough negative camber to go in the positive range (this is bad for grip) while the rear may still have negative camber. The optimal camber for any tire while cornering is 0. 0 camber while cornering means the most tire possible is in contact with the road (contact patch).

 

See my thoughts below for 0 toe.

 

Yes sure you can request them.

 

Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around.

Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking

 

0 toe will make the car rotate much easier, and when I say much easier, I mean the car will bite you in the ass if you aren't careful. If you aren't serious into autocross, I'd recommend running some toe in on the rear. The car will be much more stable at highway speeds and safe for anyone else not accustomed to driving your car.

Will wheel spacers add another variable into this equation?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin

 

So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Not my latest readings but these should be close to the current.

LF: -.4 Camber 0 Toe

RF: -.6 Camber 0 Toe

Front: 0.01 Total Toe 0 Steer Ahead

LR: -1 Camber -.02 Toe

RR: -1.6 Camber 0.01 Toe

Rear: -0.01 Total Toe -0.01 Thrust Angle

Will wheel spacers add another variable into this equation?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes and no.

 

No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error.

 

Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.

Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin. So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.

Yes, I think this will work Chris. Give it a shot and see how you like it. Unlikely you'd see any additional or abnormal tire wear with this setup and your suspension.

 

Yes and no. No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error. Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.

Some expert advice above, thanks! Yes, I also agree on this. Thick enough spacers have the same effect as a low offset, and if the rim/tire setup is kept the same, the effect is more pronounced than when a wider rim, thicker tire ends up pushing the wheels in and out to a similar degree.

Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin

 

So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

That should be good with the 22mm rsb. My 2013 2.5i had -1.2 front and -1.0 rear and had a touch of understeer.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/upeja2yd.jpg

 

Today's alignment results.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:lol: The alignment guy blamed the Bilsteins for not getting the camber the same on both rears.....this when there is no rear camber adjustment on our cars from the factory anyway.