RailKill Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 So, as a few of you know, my alignment, specifically my rear camber, got whacked out when I installed my Eibach Pro Kit springs. I ordered a set of ISC Suspension V2 adjustable rear lower control arms to remedy the excessive camber. I'll be going for another alignment on Friday after these are installed. So, what are your alignment specs? What would you suggest for a DD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/24/zadydu6e.jpg Edit megan coilovers and a bunch of suspension mods check my build thread... Edited April 23, 2014 by SpidermanMTL MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 RCE Blacks + Bilstein Combo Front Toe L/R @ 0.00 Front Camber L/R @ -1.4 Rear Toe L/R @ 0.00 Rear Camber L/R @ -1.7 ~ -1.8 With any aftermarket shocks/inserts/coilovers and a drop around 1", some negative camber won't hurt (stay 'below' -2.0). Either same negative camber all-around, slightly more up front or slightly more in the rear. Dialing in toe all-around to 0.00 made a significant positive difference in how she handles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4799054&postcount=9708 Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing which doubles as caster adjustment. OEM was stuck at 5.5 degrees, I believe. Cusco adjustable LCA and GT-Spec adjustable toe arm for Rear wheels. Camber would have certainly been off without the LCA, and the toe arm was maxed out. With these alignment specs, please note that I have a 26mm FSB and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at the stiffer setting and the 3.6R has a 45/55 F/R power bias vs LGT and 2.5i which have a 50/50 bias. Edited April 23, 2014 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting? I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yes, that would be perfect Chris. You can also try the inverse (-1.4 to -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 back). Yes, the FSB/RSB setup is fine. I have the same exact setup and dial-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4799054&postcount=9708 Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing which doubles as caster adjustment. OEM was stuck at 5.5 degrees, I believe. Cusco adjustable LCA and GT-Spec adjustable toe arm for Rear wheels. Camber would have certainly been off without the LCA, and the toe arm was maxed out. With these alignment specs, please note that I have a 26mm FSB and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at the stiffer setting and the 3.6R has a 45/55 F/R power bias vs LGT and 2.5i which have a 50/50 bias. How do you like having more negative camber in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Going in for alignment tomorrow... I'll ask for the report and post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerophool Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Attached Current Mileage as of 19-June-15: 15012 Purchase Date: 30-June-12 Visit my profile page (visitor message section) for a brief mod. list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 How do you like having more negative camber in the front? It worked with 255's and it's working great with 275's. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yes, that would be perfect Chris. You can also try the inverse (-1.4 to -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 back). Yes, the FSB/RSB setup is fine. I have the same exact setup and dial-in. Getting an alignment tomorrow at the dealer... Can I just request these values? Do I get it aligned and see what the values come out to be?... Any input would be appreciated. Never really thought of what went into alignment, I always thought you went with what you got. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yes sure you can request them. Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around. Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking. Stock suspension you can only affect the front camber, and if need be, using camber bolts to dial in or out more. For the rear you cant adjust it without new control arms, or camber caster adjust bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Getting an alignment tomorrow at the dealer... Can I just request these values? Do I get it aligned and see what the values come out to be?... Any input would be appreciated. Never really thought of what went into alignment, I always thought you went with what you got. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I always thought the same thing too. I would just bring it in, let them do their thing, get a printout and make sure all of the boxes were green, and go on my merry way. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yes sure you can request them. Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around. Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking. Stock suspension you can only affect the front camber, and if need be, using camber bolts to dial in or out more. For the rear you cant adjust it without new control arms, or camber caster adjust bushings. Understood....I am running newly installed Bilstein Struts with Eibach springs wrapped around them. I am about 20mm lower than stock right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 As I told Chris, with my last set of tires, one of the tires wore faster than the other three, and it wore on the inside while being in the back. I may be having the same negative camber issue in the rear passenger that some others are having with lowering springs. Tomorrow will tell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Man this forum is addictive!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting? I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Not a good alignment. The camber specs you proposed will lead to an understeering car. Basically, you want more negative camber in the front than rear. McPherson strut cars lose negative camber very quickly through their motion range. The double wishbone (or multilink, same difference) in the rear will lose negative camber much slower than the front mcstrut. So with the camber specs you proposed, while cornering your front outside tire (the tire that does the most cornering work) may actually lose enough negative camber to go in the positive range (this is bad for grip) while the rear may still have negative camber. The optimal camber for any tire while cornering is 0. 0 camber while cornering means the most tire possible is in contact with the road (contact patch). See my thoughts below for 0 toe. Yes sure you can request them. Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around. Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking 0 toe will make the car rotate much easier, and when I say much easier, I mean the car will bite you in the ass if you aren't careful. If you aren't serious into autocross, I'd recommend running some toe in on the rear. The car will be much more stable at highway speeds and safe for anyone else not accustomed to driving your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Will wheel spacers add another variable into this equation? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMajickMan Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Not my latest readings but these should be close to the current. LF: -.4 Camber 0 Toe RF: -.6 Camber 0 Toe Front: 0.01 Total Toe 0 Steer Ahead LR: -1 Camber -.02 Toe RR: -1.6 Camber 0.01 Toe Rear: -0.01 Total Toe -0.01 Thrust Angle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Will wheel spacers add another variable into this equation? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes and no. No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error. Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin. So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.Yes, I think this will work Chris. Give it a shot and see how you like it. Unlikely you'd see any additional or abnormal tire wear with this setup and your suspension. Yes and no. No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error. Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.Some expert advice above, thanks! Yes, I also agree on this. Thick enough spacers have the same effect as a low offset, and if the rim/tire setup is kept the same, the effect is more pronounced than when a wider rim, thicker tire ends up pushing the wheels in and out to a similar degree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk That should be good with the 22mm rsb. My 2013 2.5i had -1.2 front and -1.0 rear and had a touch of understeer. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pep4Subaru Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/upeja2yd.jpg Today's alignment results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 :lol: The alignment guy blamed the Bilsteins for not getting the camber the same on both rears.....this when there is no rear camber adjustment on our cars from the factory anyway. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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