What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

Definitely going to try and tackle the diff inserts once we get some better weather and I go to do my new sway bar bushings and the Cusco braces.

 

In other news, dropped my car off at the Subaru garage for my suspension install this morning. Beyond excited. My rental car is a lime green Kia Soula that apparently has a clown horn installed. :lol:

Edited March 27, 2018 by Humble Rumble

I traded in my 2012 Legacy 2.5i premium SWP for this 2013 Legacy 3.6R Limited VRP about 3 weeks ago.

So far, I tinted the windows, debadged some rear emblems, installed led headlights, fog lights and turn signals. Then yesterday I had some gloss black vinyl wrap done around the windows, front grill, around fog lights and rear emblem. I put overlay stickers on the rear and front emblems. Gonna plasti dip the 3.6R emblem next. Waiting for the weather to break so I can install my trunk and roof spoilers. Also gonna put my 19" niche targa wheels on.

Many more mods to come.

 

Here's some before and after pix.

Passed 80k miles this morning! Definitely time for the timing belt. Need to find some sti cams and arp studs to complete that PM item lol. Soon very soon.

 

I reloaded my previous tune that was pushing 20 psi. Man the car loves that tune. No knock, and she pulls hard.

 

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Looks great MikeyNice!!! Congrats!

I traded in my 2012 Legacy 2.5i premium SWP for this 2013 Legacy 3.6R Limited VRP about 3 weeks ago.

So far, I tinted the windows, debadged some rear emblems, installed led headlights, fog lights and turn signals. Then yesterday I had some gloss black vinyl wrap done around the windows, front grill, around fog lights and rear emblem. I put overlay stickers on the rear and front emblems. Gonna plasti dip the 3.6R emblem next. Waiting for the weather to break so I can install my trunk and roof spoilers. Also gonna put my 19" niche targa wheels on.

Many more mods to come.

 

Here's some before and after pix.

 

NICE! Welcome to the Flat-6 Family man! Car is looking real nice, the gloss black accents look excellent on the Venetian Red. You got any plans to XRT tune it?

NICE! Welcome to the Flat-6 Family man! Car is looking real nice, the gloss black accents look excellent on the Venetian Red. You got any plans to XRT tune it?

 

Thanks.

No performance mod ideas yet. It's a daily driving family car so just dressing it up for now. Then maybe I'll think about performance mods.

Today is the day that I tackle my timing belt and water pump. I have tomorrow as well if I run into any issues. My GT is at 107,800 miles so I am overdue. Last fall I did a mileage projection and expected to be 105k in May, but my driving habits changed with my new girlfriend. I bought the Company 23 crank and cam lock tools. If I have the time, I will install my Turbosmart Kompact BPV & Perrin TB coupler and flush my PS fluid.

Back to 91 tune. E85 no longer available in Las Vegas. A very sad day.

 

There is E10. I'll ask Cryotune Performance what he thinks about it.

I hate the 5th Gen GT waterpump, it sucks to do. I am tired, my back is killing me and I am calling it day. I have the timing belt done, I just need to put the turbo, radiator, etc back together tomorrow.

I hate the 5th Gen GT waterpump, it sucks to do. I am tired, my back is killing me and I am calling it day. I have the timing belt done, I just need to put the turbo, radiator, etc back together tomorrow.

I need to replace a leaky water pump on the Forester and I've been putting it off for 3 months now. Edited March 31, 2018 by GTEASER

I hate the 5th Gen GT waterpump, it sucks to do. I am tired, my back is killing me and I am calling it day. I have the timing belt done, I just need to put the turbo, radiator, etc back together tomorrow.

 

Without a lift it doesn't look like fun at all. You did it though.

Without a lift it doesn't look like fun at all. You did it though.

 

I usually get (muscular) sore from wrenching 1st time every spring, before I get into wrenching shape. If had I though about it more, I probably should have done Perin coupler last week, so I get used to bending over the engine compartment. I didn't think through the big project being my 1st project of the year. It probably would have gone smoother it I had, so I would have been thinking clearer instead of having a sore back in the back of my mind when I finally got to the waterpump.

 

Also, I love how the service manual complete glosses over that the downpipe need to be removed to remove the water pump. It doesn't mention either of the bottom 2 bolts. The service manual has you removing the driver cam sockets to remove the rear timing cover to access the lower hose (which was pain to put back on)

why did the downpipe have to come off (the service manual doesn't just gloss it over - it doesn't even mention it!) - I can see why the cam pulleys need to come off, but looking at the outlet/lower hose, etc., it looks like it should come out - apparently not? (not questioning - just trying to understand since we'll all be faced with this sooner or later!)

I think some of the fsm is just copy and paste from previous models. This isn't the first time it hasn't been accurate.

 

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Subbed

why did the downpipe have to come off (the service manual doesn't just gloss it over - it doesn't even mention it!) - I can see why the cam pulleys need to come off, but looking at the outlet/lower hose, etc., it looks like it should come out - apparently not? (not questioning - just trying to understand since we'll all be faced with this sooner or later!)

 

Here is a picture of the underside of the my original water pump underside down and from the back side and the water pump installation from the bottom. The more difficult 10mm bolt is at 45 degree angle away from the front of the motor.

 

On installed picture, I circled in red the 2 bolts blocked by the down pipe. The 2 bolt bracket in the fore ground is the bracket that the turbo/downpipe junction bolts to. I circled the white bolt, that I would remove this bolt for easier installation of that water pump bolt.

installed.my brembos and ss lines... getting some squeal at low speeds from the fronts, i'll regrease them again see if it helps.

 

been about 200kms on the bc br coil overs so far so good ... need to continue to tweak them. I had megan coilovers on my first gt, when i got them they were set ... preload, camber plates... the bc coils were not. So i'm still making adjustments cause I'm getting some clanking over certain bumps.

 

Wheels will only show up late April.. not happy about it but what can you do..

Here is a picture of the underside of the my original water pump underside down and from the back side and the water pump installation from the bottom. The more difficult 10mm bolt is at 45 degree angle away from the front of the motor.

 

On installed picture, I circled in red the 2 bolts blocked by the down pipe. The 2 bolt bracket in the fore ground is the bracket that the turbo/downpipe junction bolts to. I circled the white bolt, that I would remove this bolt for easier installation of that water pump bolt.

Nice... I can't hardly wait until timing belt time for me

Looks like the downward bolt is to a heat shield or bracket of some sort? the second looks to be to a line - maybe supply or return from the turbo? It looks like it has a hose on it with a clamp - is that accessible? If you were to release the bracket from the block (white bolt) and pull the rubber line off, it looks like that hard line could come out with the waterpump as an assembly (getting the 45 degree bolt would be much easier off of the car!).

 

Is there zero clearance for the second bolt (looks like getting a wrench on it is possible, but difficult - but if there isn't enough room to get the bolt out, then there isn't much you can do!)

 

That's sad if there isn't room and the downpipe has to come off... the timing belt looks easy compared to other cars I have worked on (with transversely mounted engines) in that everything is right there... it's like they did that just to make life difficult

^ correct. The angled bolt is for the oil cooler and the bolt straight down is one of the mounting points for the heat shield between the exhaust and the drivers side cylinder head.

Finally installed this yesterday. Another one of my stash of parts finally installed. Gotta say tho, it doesn't seem to make as big of a difference on the GT as it did on the Fozz. In fact it was barely noticeable.

 

 

 

And this damn thing came in today after 3 weeks of waiting for the black kit.

 

 

 

 

GTEASER

Where did you get the rear diff bushing? Who makes it? I was looking at the box but couldn’t read it since the bushing is covering it up. Let me know. Thank in advance

 

 

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The full part number is exposed Herda, google is your friend.

 

Plus Joe posted about these in at least 4 threads... one or two included details and links from him or replies to him.

 

And if all else fails, almost all bushing/insert manufacturers who make parts for Subarus have such inserts for the 5th gen, so you can pick and choose based on price, color, material, manufacturer of choice.

^ correct. The angled bolt is for the oil cooler and the bolt straight down is one of the mounting points for the heat shield between the exhaust and the drivers side cylinder head.

So looking at my car, it looks like there might be enough room to back the heat shield bolt off, depending on how long it is. It looks like there is even a depression in the downpipe heatshield to let it fit. Maybe an open ended wrench (or probably better, a ratcheting box wrench) would take it off, unless there isn't enough clearance and it hits the downpipe before clearing the water pump...

GTEASER

Where did you get the rear diff bushing? Who makes it? I was looking at the box but couldn’t read it since the bushing is covering it up. Let me know. Thank in advance

 

 

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Prothane 161610

So looking at my car, it looks like there might be enough room to back the heat shield bolt off, depending on how long it is. It looks like there is even a depression in the downpipe heatshield to let it fit. Maybe an open ended wrench (or probably better, a ratcheting box wrench) would take it off, unless there isn't enough clearance and it hits the downpipe before clearing the water pump...

 

I'm sure it's possible to get out. The bolt is small, but so is your area to work.

That whole area is just tight to work in personally I would drop the whole manifold and turbo as an assembly. Good time to check shaft play and maybe port that exhaust housing.

 

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