1994 ej22t

I just bought a 1994 Subaru Legacy ej22t. It does have some problems unfortunately. If I give it to much gas while driving it bogs out and jerks you back and forth like I’m going to kill it. Not sure what causes that. I took it to a Subaru mechanic here in the area he said it needs a complete rebuild. oil on a spark plug. compression test. #1 118psi #2 120psi. #3 130psi #4 118psi

A slight shake in the motor and gas spitting out the tailpipe. I’m looking for other options. Car has 260k original miles. Tranny was rebuilt 600 miles ago also a new clutch.

What other options do you mean? If the engine needs to be rebuilt, you would want to either rebuild the engine you have or replace the engine you have with one that is working well.

 

260K miles is maybe a little less than some people get from a Subaru engine, but even these things do eventually wear out.

How long and how much $$ does a rebuild cost? Other options meaning not rebuild the whole motor

If you have 120 psi and you aren't doing the test in El Alto, Bolivia, then you absolutely need to rebuild or replace. I get 170 psi at 5000ft asl.

 

A swap samey same is a simple job. I could pull that off in a day. You would want to do a couple dressups on the 'new' one before you start. Seals and that sort of thing. If you swap something that is not the same, then it could take quite a lot longer.

Compression seems low, but was a leakdown test done too? This helps narrow the field on what actually could be wrong with the engine. Compression could be low, but a leakdown test will tell you what areas need to be focused on. If you do a leakdown test and you get blow-by, the rings are fried. If you get a leak in the intake, intake valve seats are starting to go or valves itself are not seating right which can reduce compression. If you get a leak in the exhaust, the exhaust valve seats are going or you may have the beginnings of a burned valve.

 

A swap samey same is a simple job. I could pull that off in a day.

 

I think the real pain point is actually finding an EJ22T motor of low mileage that doesn't cost more than he paid for the car. Speaking of which, how much was it? You do realize that this car is a unicorn and if it were mine, no expense would be spared saving that engine.

Ah, I missed the part where it's an ej22t, not an ej22.

I paid 1500 for the car. So the answer is a rebuild. I’ve looked for a rebuild kit for it but couldn’t find one for the 22t.

That motor has a very good closed deck block, would be good to rebuild it. The problem is that motor wasn't sold any more after 1994, IIRC. If you look on some of the other Subaru forums you can find people that have rebuilt using heads and some other parts from later model cars. You might be able to put your own kit together if you can DIY. People have built some very stout motors with that block. It would be a good project, but I'm not sure if you want a project right now.

Yeah I wanted it to be a daily in the winter but doesn’t look like that’s going to happen.

Hey can I buy it? If not then we should help each other because ill be doing a rebuild this next summer(2018) of my 22t. The Boging at boost is a broke pressure sensor. Mine is burning allot of oil also and ill be daily driving over the winter until it dies then Ill just rebuild it. As for that compression the 130psi is very far from the other cylinders. The only rebuild kit for the 22t is no longer availible so now we have to find things yourself. Here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ej22t-rebuild-parts-listi-264555.html look at my list and the suggestions.

(I prefer replying here and not in PM's) For the boost pressure sensors it might be one of them guys. You cant test them but you should have a check engine lite if its bad. If you have a cel then under your dash there are 2 black wire's with black connectors not connected, connect them and turn the car to on but dont start the engine, the cel should flash long= tens(10,20,30...) short=ones(1,2,3...) so two longs and three shorts is 23 use this site to find the code http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

I wont lie, this is a rare subaru with little parts left, all work ive done is completely custom, I even deleted broken things like the evap system because its easier than finding a new one. There where only a several thousand ever made of this car so it is in theory a rare car, its engine is also a closed deck(It can handle allot of boost because the cylinder wall is thick) im pretty sure that the 22t and 22b(rarest subaru ever) are the only factory closed deck engines, IAG performance closed decks are $4k+. If you want to cell it please choose a subaru enthusiast who will treat it right. I highly suggest fixing it yourself. But if you are a low skill level with cars this might be hard, Rule of thumb i have is if you can change timing belt without pulling the engine you can work on the car. Also dont worry about the timing belt because the valves are non interruption.

Its also a real strong car. I burn through all the oil real fast but the car will keep running if i keep oil in it, I treat it like a 2 stroke engine.

No check engine light unfortunately. I wish there was because I feel like it would be a easier fix. I’m going to try and just get it through this winter and rebuild after that. Hopefully I can kind of fix the jerk for now.

If you have 120 psi and you aren't doing the test in El Alto, Bolivia, then you absolutely need to rebuild or replace. I get 170 psi at 5000ft asl.

 

You have a higher compression motor than the 22t. The 22T stock is roughly 8.5:1. I have a build 22t/205 hybrid motor and I got 96 psi when it was broken in. This is with chamber matched heads which lowered the compression even further. I'm at 4250 ft and stock STis and WRXs at this altitude are approximately 100-110 psi.

 

OP, those compression numbers aren't too bad. A leak down test will tell you more. The variation could be due to the motor cooling during the test or it is just getting a bit tired. You could also repeat the compression test after squirting some oil in the cylinders and see if the numbers go up. If they do, then you have worn piston rings which is understandable given the age of the motor. It should run almost forever.

 

Bucking can be cause by quite a few things.

 

Replace the spark plugs NGK V-Powers, part no. BKR6E11 for the EJ22, gapped somewhere between .038 and .043 inches. Make sure they are torqued to spec. A loose plug will cause bucking.

 

Check the resistance of your coil pack and make sure it is in spec. I have posted the FSM procedure here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coil-pack-throwing-sparks-202221.html?t=202221

 

Check the resistance of your fuel injectors. The FSM specs for injectors is 11-12 ohms.

 

Check the connections on your battery terminals. Loose connections vibrate and feel like fuel cut.

 

Replace your MAF (you can try cleaning it first) with a Reman Aluminum housing MAF. I went through diagnostics for months due to bucking and in the end it was a faulty MAF. It will not throw a CEL necessarily if it is bad. You can try a used one, but the old ones ALWAYS FAIL!!!

 

Check for any vacuum leaks. All your hoses are old and hard as shit. Especially the turbo inlet elbow. Look for cracks.

 

Your mechanic is probably wrong. Low compression isn't going to cause bucking. I've run into every goddamn issue on these 22T turbo legacies. Get on bbslegacycentral.

 

Unmetered air getting into the system could be causing the bucking as well.

 

A boost leak test will help you find any leaks. I have posted how to build a boost leak tester here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-boost-leak-tester-ss-199337.html

 

Replace your fuel filter if it hasn't been replaced.

 

You might want to check your fuel pressure and replace the fuel pump if it's bad. How to replace fuel pump: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/walbro-255-lph-install-diy-198427.html

You have a higher compression motor than the 22t. The 22T stock is roughly 8.5:1. I have a build 22t/205 hybrid motor and I got 96 psi when it was broken in. This is with chamber matched heads which lowered the compression even further. I'm at 4250 ft and stock STis and WRXs at this altitude are approximately 100-110 psi.http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/walbro-255-lph-install-diy-198427.html

 

I think I saw a thread where you rebuilt an ej22t. Can you share specs or the parts you used and what your intention with the final build was? Im looking for a good boost build thats a little better than stock but not insane. I want a low compression for a turbo but not so low it wont start.

The 22t I built went into my 03 wrx. My build thread has most of the details and part numbers in the first post: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2696523

 

My initial goal was to have a well built motor that could handle slightly higher than stock boost levels. I have been running 18 psi with a 20gxt on it for at least 15k, 350 whp 310 tq @ 4250 ft on 91 octane. With my 205 heads and Wiseco pistons with a .055" thick hg the static cr is around 8.35 and a quench of .043".

 

It is fairly straightforward:

22T block bored for .020 OTS Wisecos. STi rods. OEM main and rod bearings. Polished phase 1 22 crank.

Heads are JDM 205 heads with plugged STi single AVCS cams.

Grimmspeed TMIC, Blouch 20gxt turbo, tgv deletes, and a few other goodies.

Opensource tuned with Tactrix and Romraider, e-tuned by Phatron.

 

Im looking for a good boost build thats a little better than stock but not insane. I want a low compression for a turbo but not so low it wont start.

 

You could do a 22t/25d hybrid, or a 22t/20g hybrid, then run a RobTune ECU with a 16g or TD05 and get close to 300 whp. A complete WRX wiring harness merge and tune with a 205/22T hybrid will allow you to tune it, but it is a lot more expensive and a ton more work than the Robtune which is almost plug and play. Requires converting the 20G ECU to run on the wasted spark setup of the 22T ECU but it is not too hard.

 

Or you can simply run your stock 22T longblock and turn up the boost to 12-13 psi if you install an intercooler and an MBC. A fuel cut defender will allow you to run even more boost. The Robtune is the easiest and most bang for your buck though and you'll net better gas mileage.

The 22t I built went into my 03 wrx. My build thread has most of the details and part numbers in the first post: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2696523

 

Thanks your the first to give me a good detailed idea of what I should do. And this is a real primative question but what does your PCV setup look like? Is it connected back to the engine? Is It on a breather? A vacuum?

Do you have any part numbers for the maf, fuel pump and filter

Thanks your the first to give me a good detailed idea of what I should do. And this is a real primative question but what does your PCV setup look like? Is it connected back to the engine? Is It on a breather? A vacuum?

 

I just used the stock 205 WRX setup. I didn't feel a need to mess with it too much. I did block the 90* elbow with a freeze plug. On the stock 22T setup the two heads are connected to the 90 elbow. It's not necessary so I blocked it off since the WRX heads only have one breather port on the valve cover and I didn't see a need to plumb in an extra bung.

 

 

Do you have any part numbers for the maf, fuel pump and filter

 

You need the aluminum housing MAF, part no: 22680AA170

 

You can get a reman on ebay for about $80: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Cardone-74-9531-Reman-fits-90-94-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-H4-/172866988656?epid=75488390&hash=item283facea70:g:zuYAAOSw-05ZoKj~&vxp=mtr

 

Or from Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1993,legacy,2.2l+h4+turbocharged,1269693,exhaust+&+emission,mass+air+flow+sensor,5128

 

The MAF I listed above is for the Legacy SS and the 90-94 Legacy NA 5MT models.

 

The fuel filter can be found at your local auto parts store. There is no difference between the NA and turbo models.

 

The Walbro I was telling you about is inexpensive and very nice. I would go with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EPQM10?tag=viglink20901-20

I swapped spark plugs. Checked if the fuel injectors were working and found one of them was not pulsing. Pulled the cap of and it was broken in half. I’m guessing that’s why the injector wasn’t working because it didn’t have Any pressure?

Oh I also unplugged the maf car wouldn’t start and plugged it back in and started fine. So I’m guessing that is still working

I did my own compression tests #1 140psi #2 140psi #3 147psi #4 140psi

Then I put oil in the chamber and did t again #1 190psi #2 180psi #3 190psi #4 180psi

I swapped spark plugs. Checked if the fuel injectors were working and found one of them was not pulsing. Pulled the cap of and it was broken in half. I’m guessing that’s why the injector wasn’t working because it didn’t have Any pressure?

 

I have some extra 22T pink injectors. If you want one send me a PM and I can ship you one for $20. Measure the resistance across the pins of the injectors and make sure they are in spec. A faulty injector will end up causing a burnt valve and glaze over your cylinder. It will cause the engine to run rough for sure.

 

Oh I also unplugged the maf car wouldn’t start and plugged it back in and started fine. So I’m guessing that is still working

 

Sure, it might be working, but they get 'tired'. A new MAF will absolutely make your car run better. This is true for all turbo cars. The difference is immediately apparent. I went through a couple of used ones and then bought a reman. Car picked up so much quicker and went into POWER mode for the first time. If you look around on NASIOC one of the first recommendations for Bugeyes and older turbo cars is to replace the MAF and 02 sensors.

 

I did my own compression tests #1 140psi #2 140psi #3 147psi #4 140psi

Then I put oil in the chamber and did t again #1 190psi #2 180psi #3 190psi #4 180psi

 

Nice dude! Looking good! I told you your mechanic was full of crap. There is quite a bit of variation from compression tester to tester. Most important is consistency across the bores.

 

Let me know and I can send you an injector pretty quick. I probably have about 8 or 9 of them laying around.

 

Check the resistance of the pins on the injectors. The FSM states it should be between 11-12 ohms although they can operate a bit outside that range.

I have some extra 22T pink injectors. If you want one send me a PM and I can ship you one for $20. Measure the resistance across the pins of the injectors and make sure they are in spec. A faulty injector will end up causing a burnt valve and glaze over your cylinder. It will cause the engine to run rough for sure.

What aftermarket injectors can be used? I know this is a noob question but Ive never messed with them. And thanks for the input on the o2 and maf ill probably replace as i weld up new intake and exhaust.

I also think this thread should be a sticky because I have had so many people In the past year ask me about ej22t's.