xt2005bonbon Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Pulled the engine today and got the heads off. Here's the burnt #3 exhaust valve: One of my mechanic friends says this looks like evidence of excessive blow-by. So is it time for new piston rings? did they check the valve clearance on that burnt valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcteryx Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Heads are getting dropped off at the machine shop today, so I can ask them to measure the clearances before they start pulling things apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorWood Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Had misfire issues on cyl 1 which improved dramatically when 6.5 gal of gas was added to the 6-7 gal in tank. I am thinking this was related to parking on a steep hill and that I have accumulated water in the gas tank. Has anyone siphoned theirs out to get rid of the water or is it best done with many cans of drygas? Also wondering if filter dirty. How does one do specific searches here. When I did fuel tank I got the huge "what did you do thread" but no pointers to individual posts. Is there a more specific search filter. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) The search function on here isn't the best, and I think most of us use Google. Try something like this (question, followed by "site:legacygt.com") how to drain fuel tank site:legacygt.com The first one that came up seems like a good idea link here Edited July 30, 2018 by StkmltS My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJPhelps Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 So much great advice on this thread... We've done several of these things still having issues... I know shes an old car but we take really good care of her!!! 2001 Subaru Legacy Wagon - Manual 198,000 A few months ago my engine would shake a little when I was idling... Also I noticed I need about 2.5 RPS to shift smoothly... Usually you can at 1.5... I cranked the AC one day and the idling got stronger and gave me a C2 misfire... Got a few more C2 C3 misfires before I could do any work. Plugs were cracked. Replaced all plugs and fuel and air filters. Not shaking under idle as much... Went up some hills (incline and throttle) and had several misfires causing me to down shift in times I shouldn't have to just to get up the hill. Still C2 C3 misfires... Feels like I can stall. Replaced plugs again, new ignition coil, (wires are 2 years old) Seals seem ok, no oil on plugs. No Change Swapped 2/4 fuel injectors to see if misfire followed. It did NOT. Brought my car to Subaru yesterday. They basically told me everything we just did. I don't believe the parts I've bought are faulty... I'd be willing to get wires next. Compression test for C3 went well. I am having them finish it four all Cylinders tomorrow. He did switch the wires for 1/3 causing C1 C2 to misfire but when it all went back to the original coil and wire it is still C2 C3 misfires. I am considering wires next financially. I am paying about $100 an hour for diagnostics... Tomorrow he will check the belt and do the remaining compression test. I am thinking about having the check the valves but that will be several hours he says.... Thoughts??? Ideas??? Help me keep Renae alive!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 ^ have you thought about replacing the distributor with a re-man one. Found that fixed my high mileage civic years ago...after spending $$$ replacing parts inside the old one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Thoughts??? Ideas??? Help me keep Renae alive!! Lightly spray some carb cleaner around your intake manifold gasket areas at the base of your IM, while your engine is idling. At that mileage, you could have old, failing seals, and if so, you'll notice an immediate change in engine idle RPM, and misfires if not replaced. Recommend the other thing you do, is to do a Sea Foam cleaning of your intake manifold and your valves. Also, check and clean your throttle body plate. When was the last valve lash adjustment on this? At 198K, you should be planning your second TB change at 210K. I do a VLA each timing belt replacement interval, which is which is typically 105K unless severe driving conditions, or non-California specifications. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedM0nster Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I am having similar issues with my 05 LGT Sedan, she has 167k miles on her.. I just read through this entire thread, and I have something that is a little different as far as when the car misfires. I have a scanGauge 2 installed in my car’s OBDII port, so I can see near-real-time information. Like a lot of the thread entries my misfire issue happens more often during cold weather. I have a very consistent P0302 error, no other cylinders have caused a CEL. It will throw the code at idle when cold and I can watch the RPM’s drop below 550rpm. It usually happens when I am braking to a stop. (the misfire and the idle going down so low at a stop is the scenario that seems a bit different than the rest of the thread) I have swapped Coil packs/injectors Cleaned MAF, Cleaned Injector etc. I have replaced all of my plugs with NGK Iridium plugs (OEM) I had an oil starvation issue with my turbo, and had that replaced, while it was in the shop, I asked the to do a leak down and compression test, although #2 was lower than the rest, it was still within 10% of the rest. They ran a scope down the cylinder and looked at the top of the valves and they were clean and showed no oil blow-by, also when I changed my plugs, I didn’t see any oil on them. With all of the troubleshooting I have done, my guess would be that maybe a valve guide has slipped? Wouldn’t that cause some white smoke from the exhaust, and oil consumption? I change my oil every 2500 miles with full synthetic, and the car isn’t really using any oil between changes. I spent $4500 on the Turbo replacement and the fix for 2 small oil leaks, I really don’t want to put a ton more money into the car. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 cold weather, have you replaced the small black O-rings with the newer larger orange ones between the TGV's and the intake manifold ? You can see the color if you have a good light. I learned that years back. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtroop12 Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Thanks, this was very helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeglgt Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 I’ve been reading through the thread, there’s a lot of information on here! The issue I’m having is very similar misfiring and sputtering really back at around 2500rpm+ then kind of gets better. Now this is only in 2nd gear and up. Climbing hills even worse almost stalled out. I have a 2003 legacy B4 spec-b from Japan the car has had its first winter drive within the last two days. Now like I said everything is similar but no CEL. I will be doing plus and checking them tom. Anyone have any suggestion because of the no CEL? Any help would be appreciated thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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