fredrik94087 Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 We shall see if this helps the wear on front outsides. Went from neg 1.7 to 2.0 I also need to find out any balance change next few days. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 This was the 1st alignment after having the DAMD steering wheel installed. They said the alignment had to be done because the DAMD wheel was slightly askew right. My initial response was, why not just pull the wheel and put it back on one tooth to the left. He said, then it would be slightly askew left and I would still need an alignment. After the alignment and a test drive, the DAMD wheel was off to the right (more than just one tooth) and the car pulled slightly right, so I had them re-do it. This is why I really, really wish I didn't have to go to the dealer for the install, but I was unable to do it myself or find a shop locally that would. This is the 2nd alignment done with me sitting in the car and holding the steering wheel straight. I saw on the alignment screen that it was all "green lights". As you see in the print-out, that wasn't the case, but all the red numbers are .1° or less out of spec. Also note, the rear numbers changed just from me sitting in the car; he never touched the rear wheels when he did the alignment. So, what are everyone's impressions of these numbers since I know nothing about alignment specs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'm having trouble with the difference in camber front R/L with or without you in the car. With you in the car, they should be the same. Why they didn't zero out the front and rear toe, I don't understand as there is adjustment for both front and rear. I looked at your build list and you are not lowered, so why do you have so much negative (non-adjustable) camber in the rear? "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'm having trouble with the difference in camber front R/L with or without you in the car. With you in the car, they should be the same. Wouldn't camber be slightly more negative with me in the car? Why they didn't zero out the front and rear toe, I don't understand as there is adjustment for both front and rear. Because it's a dealership and they're lazy? I looked at your build list and you are not lowered, so why do you have so much negative (non-adjustable) camber in the rear? Would having ~49K miles on the suspension affect that? Maybe time to replace/upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Wouldn't camber be slightly more negative with me in the car? Would having ~49K miles on the suspension affect that? Maybe time to replace/upgrade? My alignment was done with 150# in the car to simulate driver weight. Of course, I weigh more than that, but there is no reason why they wouldn't be able to make front camber the same even with 300# in the driver's seat. For rear camber, I don't know. Could things start to bend or give way or loosen up over time? Maybe "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Your stock springs would have to have sagged 1" or more to get -2 camber. Now the -1.2 I can understand with a driver in the car. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Your stock springs would have to have sagged 1" or more to get -2 camber. Now the -1.2 I can understand with a driver in the car. Yes, but he's got more negative camber on the right side than the left side for both front and rear. Oh, wait, I forgot...it's within spec! "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Your stock springs would have to have sagged 1" or more to get -2 camber. Now the -1.2 I can understand with a driver in the car. But, what else would explain the differences between the two reports since they didn't touch the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Oh, and after going out for dinner and driving around for a bit, I noticed me steering wheel is still slightly tilted to the right when driving straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 ^^^ sorry to hear that. It is about the most annoying feeling. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Yeah, Rob - to be the rear camber also looks strange on both sides. Its actually MORE than I have lowered on RCEs/Bils combo. If you can get them to 'fix' it one more time, request 0 toe all around like Fred mentioned. They can dial that in no problem, just need to work a bit (lazy#$%^). Since its likely they won't be able to do anything with the rear camber (unless you get a set of Whiteline LCA bushings with camber correction or a replacement rear LCA set (another $500 at least)); I'd also ask them to dial-in a bit more negative camber in the front. Say -1.8 or -2.0 on each side. This will help 'balance' out the negative camber we see out back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 ^^^ sorry to hear that. It is about the most annoying feeling. I was holding the steering wheel as straight as can be when he aligned it. He adjusted the front Toe to +0.05° each side, so that shouldn't be the issue. The low Caster angle of +5.2° on the front right side may be the reason the steering wheel is pushed to the right when driving straight. When I let go of the wheel, the car still continues to go straight. I could just try pulling the steering wheel again myself and turn it one click to the left, but, I have a lot of positive Toe in the rear as well, so I should probably have that adjusted anyways as well as the rear right Camber. I'm going to have to find an alignment shop locally that I can trust to do the job correctly. I have a feeling though, that I will going to AZP for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Since its likely they won't be able to do anything with the rear camber (unless you get a set of Whiteline LCA bushings with camber correction These? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-KCA326-Rear-Camber-Adjustment-Bushings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Yup KCA326, for a closer shop - 106 Street Tire on Northern Blvd by LaGuardia Airport. They know alignments and wheels like no one else on Long Island. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Yup KCA326, for a closer shop - 106 Street Tire on Northern Blvd by LaGuardia Airport. They know alignments and wheels like no one else on Long Island. Interesting that they're open 24 hours. The LCA bushings looks and sounds like it would be a lot of time and money to get done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Interesting that they're open 24 hours. The LCA bushings looks and sounds like it would be a lot of time and money to get done. It is defitely cheaper than adjustable LCA's. I am so glad I work with a good shop. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubyDude81 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 The KCA326 are a pain to install and a bigger pain to adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 The KCA326 are a pain to install and a bigger pain to adjust. This is why I went the adjustable LCA route. Definitely more expensive, but way easier adjusting and installing. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I've decided to take my car to a local tire shop that I've used for years to get their opinion of the two reports the dealer gave me. The fact that the numbers for the rears were so different between the two reports, knowing that they never touched the rears, indicates to me poor workmanship. What other steps I may take in terms of LCA's or bushings will depend on what numbers they come up with. That said, what should my target numbers be on a stock suspension? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I've decided to take my car to a local tire shop that I've used for years to get their opinion of the two reports the dealer gave me. The fact that the numbers for the rears were so different between the two reports, knowing that they never touched the rears, indicates to me poor workmanship. What other steps I may take in terms of LCA's or bushings will depend on what numbers they come up with. That said, what should my target numbers be on a stock suspension? No clue on stock suspension numbers. Besides, the tolerance is too high for spec. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I wonder is the wheel spacers are having an affect on the rear camber & toe angle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Shouldn't so drastically. I have 17mm all around and still below -1 stock up front and -1.2 out back; dialed in -1.4 front and ended up with -1.8 out back. Based on suggestions I should either bring the front in-line with the rear or even a bit ahead in terms of negative camber (say -2.0 front, -1.8 back) or dial the back to more positive with a new set of LCAs or camber kit (say to -1.2) I've been at -1.4 front, -1.8 back, 0.00 toe all around for at least 6 months now - 0 issues. But do want to dial-in -2.0 up front. Will try that next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Shouldn't so drastically. I have 17mm all around and still below -1 stock up front and -1.2 out back; dialed in -1.4 front and ended up with -1.8 out back. Based on suggestions I should either bring the front in-line with the rear or even a bit ahead in terms of negative camber (say -2.0 front, -1.8 back) or dial the back to more positive with a new set of LCAs or camber kit (say to -1.2) I've been at -1.4 front, -1.8 back, 0.00 toe all around for at least 6 months now - 0 issues. But do want to dial-in -2.0 up front. Will try that next. I ordered the Whiteline bushings from Amazon. I should have them by Tuesday. You think 106St Tire is competent enough to put them in or should I go to AZP? 106st is a bit closer and has better hours for me, but I want this done correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'd say skip 106th Street for this, sadly. They won't know which fork to eat this with, let alone the wine pairing. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'd say skip 106th Street for this, sadly. They won't know which fork to eat this with, let alone the wine pairing. lol Nice. Hopefully, I can into AZP Wednesday or Thursday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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