4th Gen Legacy GT

I'm in Washington State and am looking to buy a 4th gen Legacy GT. Since I've started my search last week I've come across two that had engine rebuilds. One was the long block on 150k mile engine, the other was the short block on an 80k mile engine. Is this a common occurrence or just coincidence?

Pretty common, and honestly, these engines are ticking time bombs. It's not an IF it'll blow, it's a WHEN and how badly. Some stock engines have been well-maintained by their original owners since day one and are still running well at or above 200k now, though there's only a few on here.

 

Turbos tend to blow, and can take the engine with it. The material in the UP cat can clog the turbo and kill it. The filter in the banjo bolt on the turbo can clog and kill it. Basically, anything can kill the turbo and when that dies, it usually takes the engine with it, hence the number of rebuilds going on.

 

That said, it all comes down to what was used in the rebuild. Take a look in the 4th Gen forums and the Turbo Powertrain forums and you'll see that a few people are running custom-built shortblocks with forged internals. When these are assembled from the factory, they're predictable and specific parts are used and with specific tolerances. However, some guys decide that any ol' engine builder can put together their block, and unfortunately, they pay the price -- twice.

 

So, yes, you should go with either of the rebuilt ones, preferably the longblock, because that means the heads have been serviced as well. Look for one that was replaced with a stock block, not a fancy list of forged parts. However, you should ask to see reciepts and do some research on who the engine builders were, to get an idea of whether or not they know Subaru engines, or they normally do Hondas/Acuras, or are just a regular ol' mechanic who does "everything".

 

If you're serious about buying, make sure you take it to a Subaru mechanic for a prepurchase inspection. Most places will do it for free, or a nominal fee. I can recommend one in the Tacoma area, depending on where you're at.

 

Shop carefully, though. You'll pay about 7-12k for a 4th gen GT, and if the engine goes, you're looking at spending at least another 5k to get back on the road - just FYI.

Hey thanks for the reply, very informative. I am stationed at JBLM so Tacoma is just right up the road. I appreciate the help.

This is one car where an extended warranty can make sense since it's not the little usually excluded stuff that has issues, it's the powertrain. I got one for my 07 Spec B.

There's a couple members here locally that would still like to have their cars sold to someone who'd enjoy them while they're deployed. I think Natedog7 is/was still interested in selling his 06 Spec B. . Fully built motor, a very nice ride. Also military, so, maybe he'll cut you a deal if you do some pushups or something.

Pretty common, and honestly, these engines are ticking time bombs. It's not an IF it'll blow, it's a WHEN and how badly. Some stock engines have been well-maintained by their original owners since day one and are still running well at or above 200k now, though there's only a few on here.

 

Turbos tend to blow, and can take the engine with it. The material in the UP cat can clog the turbo and kill it. The filter in the banjo bolt on the turbo can clog and kill it. Basically, anything can kill the turbo and when that dies, it usually takes the engine with it, hence the number of rebuilds going on.

 

That said, it all comes down to what was used in the rebuild. Take a look in the 4th Gen forums and the Turbo Powertrain forums and you'll see that a few people are running custom-built shortblocks with forged internals. When these are assembled from the factory, they're predictable and specific parts are used and with specific tolerances. However, some guys decide that any ol' engine builder can put together their block, and unfortunately, they pay the price -- twice.

 

So, yes, you should go with either of the rebuilt ones, preferably the longblock, because that means the heads have been serviced as well. Look for one that was replaced with a stock block, not a fancy list of forged parts. However, you should ask to see reciepts and do some research on who the engine builders were, to get an idea of whether or not they know Subaru engines, or they normally do Hondas/Acuras, or are just a regular ol' mechanic who does "everything".

 

If you're serious about buying, make sure you take it to a Subaru mechanic for a prepurchase inspection. Most places will do it for free, or a nominal fee. I can recommend one in the Tacoma area, depending on where you're at.

 

Shop carefully, though. You'll pay about 7-12k for a 4th gen GT, and if the engine goes, you're looking at spending at least another 5k to get back on the road - just FYI.

Misstris, you need to stay out of the new member area with your doom and gloom outlook FFS.

 

We get you had issues, but not all LGTs are ticking time bombs . It is all about proper maintenance (as you stated), and I assure you that for every forum post about failure - there are 10 or more non enthusiasts who don't come to the forums, enjoying a vehicle and racking up the miles without issue. Forums are a small sample size of all owners, and human nature tends to lean towards venting negative issues rather than praise.

 

@ OP any used car purchase should include a pre-purchase inspection. With turbo boxer motors in Subarus, it's advised to get a compression and leak down test as part of that inspection. Cars are a sizable investment, so why not spend a bit of money for peace of mind ahead of purchasing? If there's anything questionable in those PPI results, walk away.

 

I also would not look for a rebuilt engine as a prime candidate (unless it is well documented by a reputable shop who will likely warranty their work). Too many botched jobs out there, and DIY guys who read a few posts on a forum, tackle the job, and screw up the build since they are not experienced engine builders.

I've taken very good care of my specB and replaced the water pump and all belts including timing just over a year ago. Car is now at 108k.

 

I just went and got a oil change yesterday. On driving home the oil light started flickering. I also heard a noise I can only describe as a diesel when you first start it up. Yup the oil pickup is cracked and I've got bearing material in there, so need heads and a short block. Luckly me as I just got the Megan Racing mid and cans installed yesterday too.

I'm looking for a wagon so I'll have to pass on the Spec B. I'm actually trying to decide between the Legacy GT and an Audi A4 Avant. I prefer the Subie because it has a slightly bigger and more powerful engine and my wife prefers the Audi because...well its an Audi lol. Thanks for the informative replies, I really appreciate it.