Official 3.6R Mod List

Yes I did. Here is my post about it

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/port-polish-your-throttle-body-226084.html

I only worked on the intake side since I wasn't about to try and port match to a plastic intake manifold.

No I didn't take the pin out. That would mean drilling out the screws & breaking the electronics to pull the pin & valve. I'd have no way to reassemble without sending it out or a working car for a while without a spare. New OEM replacements are around $500 and the salvage yards had reasonable prices but each I talked to about getting a spare were.....well...dicks when I asked them for the condition of the part.

Nadracer, did you do any porting on your TB and if so, were you able to remove the pin that holds the butterfly valve in place?

Thanks for the info.

I asked because I called around for porting of my own TB in case i can not use the wrx 75mm.

The concern was that dust particles may get in from the side of the spindle and they would not be able to get it out.

I suggested some hot glue to block it and port around. They will try it on a TB that has a similar issue and I will call to find out how it went.

Again, if anyone is motivated to take pictures of the TB with the DBW removed so we can see the inside, please step up and if not I guess I will have to make time this weekend.

Please oh please tell me this will fit my 3.6R....PLEASE!!!

 

What is the OE TB size anyway? This unit is 75mm which is just shy of 3". I know my piping is 3", but the website states it flows better than OE.

 

I am literally walking out the door in the dark with a flashlight to take a look under the hood.

 

EDIT: OEM TB OD with lip is 76mm. ID is 68mm. I took a few pics of my TB. First off, we have 4 bolts. The one in the website has 2 bolts. The right side looks like it would allow the DBW to mount on; however, the left side of OEM looks like it has a place for a vacuum on the bottom left. So...dunno.

Any thoughts???

AMR told me they can port/polish mine NP.

I did a little digging and found out that the 08/09 3.0 uses the same intake manifold as the 11/12/13/14.

Both part numbers for Intake Manifold are: 14001AB880

The throttle bodies are different, of course, since one is driven by cable and the other one by wire.

The 3.0 was being offered a TB of up to 80mm.

I searched for any aftermarket Intake Manifold for the 3.0 and came up empty handed.

Let me know if you guys find anything.

Good find. Add the 2015 3.6R to the list, same manifold, made by Tokyo Roki for Subaru:

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49226349&ukey_assembly=6026544

http://www.roki.co.jp/english/manifold.html

Notice our little H6 'face hugger' friend in the upper right hand corner?

http://www.roki.co.jp/english/products/images/manifold04.jpg

I've also found the HT/Lineatronic-CVT OEM oil cooler listed as one of their products/assemblies.

Also found this interesting thread with some good info. Guy bolted up an old cast intake manifold from an 2003/4 EZ30 to a newer motor.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31494 (see page 1, 5, 6 etc)

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1006664&postcount=127 - looky here!

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f168/t184760-skunk2-dbw-big-bore-throttle-body.html

The only option I ever found was to use an older 3.0 H6 manifold. Yes, its aluminum but heat soak is small; port match it and ceramic coat it. If you're really worried about soak, you could have some phenolic spacers made up. Those should be cheap to make up; maybe $100. There are companies that can p&p your throttle body if you send it to them. Those services usually cost about $400.

I did a little digging and found out that the 08/09 3.0 uses the same intake manifold as the 11/12/13/14.

 

Both part numbers for Intake Manifold are: 14001AB880

 

The throttle bodies are different, of course, since one is driven by cable and the other one by wire.

 

The 3.0 was being offered a TB of up to 80mm.

 

I searched for any aftermarket Intake Manifold for the 3.0 and came up empty handed.

 

Let me know if you guys find anything.

Good find. Add the 2015 3.6R to the list, same manifold, made by Tokyo Roki for Subaru:

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49226349&ukey_assembly=6026544

 

http://www.roki.co.jp/english/manifold.html

 

Notice our little H6 'face hugger' friend in the upper right hand corner?

http://www.roki.co.jp/english/products/images/manifold04.jpg

 

I've also found the HT/Lineatronic-CVT OEM oil cooler listed as one of their products/assemblies.

 

Also found this interesting thread with some good info. Guy bolted up an old cast intake manifold from an 2003/4 EZ30 to a newer motor.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31494 (see page 1, 5, 6 etc)

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1006664&postcount=127 - looky here!

 

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f168/t184760-skunk2-dbw-big-bore-throttle-body.html

Great find, Perscitus, but with the older D manifold, the TB sticks up. I wonder how that would fir with our AFE intake...maybe we could use a 45 coupling?

Still...great info.

I am contemplating plopping money on a WRX TB and try it out or get a used TB and Intake Manifold and send out for porting and port matching.

http://www.proflowdesign.com/tbsub.htm

http://maxbore.com/

Grimspeed offers port and polish as a service too. I have also found a used TB off of a wrecked 2013 3.6R for $160.

I couldn't wait until the weekend.

I got home a bit early, started to remove the throttle body and noticed that the DBW rectangular unit is riveted to the TB.

We have a connector with 6 to 8 pins that connect to that black rectangular DBW unit.

I took a picture of the male and female sides and will forward to Camille. If it is a no go, I am ordering a used TB and manifold and sending out for porting.

Also, by chance, I rolled into a muffler shop. The owner had just installed headers and high flow cats on his 2005 CTS-V.

He is willing to do the header install, so that door has not closed.

One step at a time, though.

Cheers!

Great find, Perscitus.

We must have posted at the same time.

Throttle body pics for reference

I e-mailed this link to Boomba.

Giovanni just found a potential serious issue/flaw with the PRS Pleasure Racing LWCP.

He and I'm assuming ECS/Paul have traced an oil leak to the LWCP!

Removal of the pulley confirmed a clearance/fitment issue where the pulley's inner key'ed shaft eats away at the crankcase seal... causing a deep gash around the pulley itself and eating away at the oil seal itself.

We've emailed Ohashi @ PRS about this. Stay tuned.

I will also get to removing and inspecting mine, swapping the OEM pulley back in if I find the same issue.

Hey guys quick question I emailed raptor about ordering headers last week. Haven't heard back yet ,does anyone know how long it took to get in contact with them ?

And or register on Club Liberty Asn Au and ping him in the Raptor section:

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewforum.php?f=65

Giovanni just found a potential serious issue/flaw with the PRS Pleasure Racing LWCP.

 

He and I'm assuming ECS/Paul have traced an oil leak to the LWCP!

Removal of the pulley confirmed a clearance/fitment issue where the pulley's inner key'ed shaft eats away at the crankcase seal... causing a deep gash around the pulley itself and eating away at the oil seal itself.

 

We've emailed Ohashi @ PRS about this. Stay tuned.

 

I will also get to removing and inspecting mine, swapping the OEM pulley back in if I find the same issue.

How long ago did Giovanni have his installed? Mine was put in exactly 7 months ago. I just checked my car to see if I could hear/see anything unusual. Only thing I found was I was down almost 1L of oil since my last service 3500mi ago; nothing "unusual" about that. I did not see any oil leaks or oil stains around the timing chain cover where the crank pulley is located or anywhere else.

If there was a clearance issue, wouldn't it have been obvious?

Could it be due to the supercharger install adding tension in a a particular direction? Originally, there were X number of things opposing the crank pulley. Now, there is X+1.

Now, you have me concerned. I guess I will pull the engine cover off and start/stop the motor several times and see if there is anything that may rub.

You are talking about something sticking out behind the pulley and facing the engine?

That's my thought too Fredrik. I hope its the case.

Check out these pics from Giovanni.

Perscitus, I see a groove all the way around the pulley's shaft. I also see the location of the key on the inside. But, I don't see anything that sticks out.

I don't know if the circumferential groove was there to begin with or not. As far as the notch on the inside of the LWCP, does the LWCP have a pin that fits in the single notch on the inside, or does it slip over a notch that is on the crank shaft?

If it has a pin, it could have come loose and worked its way toward the crank case. With all that torque on an aluminum pulley, anything is possible.

That's my thought too Fredrik. I hope its the case.

 

Check out these pics from Giovanni.

That's a pretty nasty groove (there looks like there's two of them, actually).

The pulley itself slips onto and is keyed to the crank sprocket. That groove looks like it's either being caused by the oil seal or the timing chain cover itself. It's possible that during installation that something got stuck in there between the pulley and seal and is what caused all the damage. Or, it could be what you and Fred are thinking, that the extra tension on the pulley from the SC could be pulling it "out of round". I would think the latter would be something you could see or hear upon inspection.

As far as the notch on the inside of the LWCP, does the LWCP have a pin that fits in the single notch on the inside, or does it slip over a notch that is on the crank shaft?

Like I said above, the notch in the inside of the pulley is keyed to the crank sprocket inside the timing cover.

Perscitus, I see a groove all the way around the pulley's shaft. I also see the location of the key on the inside. But, I don't see anything that sticks out. I don't know if the circumferential groove was there to begin with or not. As far as the notch on the inside of the LWCP, does the LWCP have a pin that fits in the single notch on the inside, or does it slip over a notch that is on the crank shaft? If it has a pin, it could have come loose and worked its way toward the crank case. With all that torque on an aluminum pulley, anything is possible.

Yeah, that's the issue - the groove around the shaft is not supposed to be there (hence the exposed raw aluminum, instead of all-blue surface when new). The notch and key area seems fine to me looking at those pics.

Giovanni told me that the crankcase itself caused this damage near the seal and he had to replace the seal when installing the stock pulley back.

That's a pretty nasty groove (there looks like there's two of them, actually). The pulley itself slips onto and is keyed to the crank sprocket. That groove looks like it's either being caused by the oil seal or the timing chain cover itself. It's possible that during installation that something got stuck in there between the pulley and seal and is what caused all the damage. Or, it could be what you and Fred are thinking, that the extra tension on the pulley from the SC could be pulling it "out of round". I would think the latter would be something you could see or hear upon inspection.

The grove all around, where we can see the 'raw' aluminum without the anodized finish. Yes, I also see a few channels there - 2 main ones.

I'm also hoping we'll learn that this is either a case of:

a. install issue/error

b. tandem of Raptor SC and PRS LWCP not being good

Giovanni should be able to chip in later with more info.

I'm also curious what were the exact symptoms/signs, if the sound of the pulleys rotating now with the stock CP back in place is any different than with the LWCP.

Plus I guess we will know more when one of us with the NA motors pulls the pulley to see if the same type of wear pattern can be seen. I will do it, just not sure when I can get to it.

The grove all around, where we can see the 'raw' aluminum without the anodized finish. Yes, I also see a few channels there - 2 main ones.

Here's the two grooves I'm seeing; the obvious one in red, and the not so obvious one in yellow.

Giovanni should be able to chip in later with more info.

I'm also curious what were the exact symptoms/signs, if the sound of the pulleys rotating now with the stock CP back in place is any different than with the LWCP.

This will be very important to know.

Plus I guess we will know more when one of us with the NA motors pulls the pulley to see if the same type of wear pattern can be seen. I will do it, just not sure when I can get to it.

You live closer to One Stop than I do. Now that they know how to do it, it should be easy enough for them. If we have the same results as Giovanni and the oil seal is no good, then things start to become more expensive and time consuming.

Just the grooves on the LWCP wouldn't mean an oil leak, right?

Where is the groove on the crank case (picture)?