VR001 Transmission Blast Plate Install

How to Install Transmission Blast Plates Made by VR001.

 

Imgur album linked here.

 

This is very similar to replacing a clutch via the transmission drop method. I took some ideas from that guy so credit to him when I find his user name.

 

I will add details and other instructions as I review and edit this post. I have found that imgur is very hard to work with and I may have messed some things up or forgotten to take photos along the way.

 

Step 1: Remove engine cover, Intercooler bolts on A and B 12mm, loosen hose clamps, and remove.

 

 

Step 2: Disconnect wires A-D and remove Intercooler support arm E 12mm. On the back wall will be a transmission ground wire you will need to disconnect 10mm.

 

 

Step 2B: Note mounting ring to be used in step 3A for supporting engine.

 

 

Step 3: Build support bar with 2x4s. Super easy to throw together. Lengths were 12" 12" 55" and 58" Note: engine lift point at bottom right of B.

 

 

Step 3A: Use ratchet strap attached to ring 3A and the front engine lift point B. Do not lift engine very much at this point as it will only make step 4 harder.

 

Step 4: Removing the 3 bolts A-C 17mm holding the transmission mounting points in place and the engine mount top bolt D 14mm. In the top left of this picture are the two mounting holes for the clutch cylinder that needs to be removed as well 14mm.

 

 

Step 4A: Detail of the diver side for step 4 showing how cramped it can get. B mirroring to B bolt in Step 4. In the lower left of this photo is the starter. It is held in place by 2 bell housing bolts

 

 

Step 4B: Detail of the diver side for step 4 showing how cramped it can get. A mirroring to A bolt in Step 4.

 

 

Step 4C: To get to drivers side transmission bolt C I had to remove the arm marked with a yellow arrow. This arm holds stater wires in place. 10 mm for both bolts. I ended up using a serpentine belt tool to get a low profile socket down there to break the bolt and start backing it out.

 

If you don't get all of these bolts out at this time don't worry. Getting them loose is a start and it can be easier to finish them from underneath the car.

 

Step 5: Use your seat belt to hold the steering wheel on center. This should help you with aligning the steering rack when putting the car back together. Then lift the car.

 

 

Step 6: Remove 4 nuts 12mm and corresponding threaded bolts connecting drive shaft to rear differential. The aluminum skid plate on the left is hiding mine so yours may look different.

NOT PICTURED: disconnect exhaust near at mid pipe to J pipe connection

 

 

Step 7. Disconnect exhaust midpipe to y pipe. As you can see I broke original bolts A and had to buy new ones B. Reused old springs.

 

NOT PICTURED: Remove exhaust heat shield

 

 

Step 8: Remove drive shaft with the pull out method. Some of you may be better at this than others.

While underneath the car at this point I removed the forward transmission mount brackets in step 4 and set them aside with long bolts still in them.

 

Step 9: Disconnect tie rod. Cotter pin, be careful so you can reuse this and castle nut 19mm.

 

 

Step 10: Disconnect lower control arm or A arm and lower ball joint. Cotter pin and castle nut 19mm.

 

 

Step 11: Disconnect axles from transmission. be sure to have a bucket or drip pan ready and use a pry bar and a hammer to hit axle towards the outside of the car at point marked by arrow. It's gonna take some love.

 

 

Step 12: Disconnect steering be sure to mark to help re align when putting the car back together. I think it's a 12mm or 14mm I didn't remove it all the way so I never wrote it down on my sheet.

 

 

Step 13A: Bell housing bolts and nuts. 1, 2, 3 are 12mm bolts. 4 is a 12mm nut on a stud used for aligning when putting the transmission back in.

 

 

Step 13B: Bell housing bolts and nuts. 5 is a 12mm nut on a stud. 6 is a 12mm bolt. 7 and 8 were removed when you took of the starter. Keep track of which is which on all of these as they are different lengths.

 

Step 14: Disconnect first shifter cable by removing pin.

 

 

Step 15: Disconnect second shifter cable by prying off with a flat head screwdriver or two. It took some effort but be careful as these are plastic parts.

 

Then wiggle your engine and transmission until they pull apart.

 

 

Step 16: Remove brackets A and B. These are replaced by the brackets included in the blast plate kit. Note the 4 bolts marked with yellow arrows the top one hidden by bracket A in this picture.

 

 

Step 17: remove the 4 bolts highlighted by yellow arrows. These will be replaced by the threaded rod or bolts included in the blast plate kit. 12mm and 14mm

 

 

Step 18: Install new brackets and test fit passenger side blast plate. This is the one with the cut in it seen on the right.

 

 

Step 19: Install blast plats and bolts provided. Torque to specifications in instructions provided.

 

Step 20A: Align driver side blast plate and install new bolts A, B, C, and D in locations marked in photo.

 

 

Step 20B: Passenger side bolt location detail.

 

 

Step 21: Detail of new bracket A

 

 

Step 22: Detail of new bracket B

 

 

Step 23: Clean out bell housing with brake cleaner and thousand paper towels. This is very dirty and full of clutch disk dust. Not required but highly recommended. Also this is the step where you would want to pause to install your new clutch. Details on that in another post.

 

Step 24: Detail of transmission installed with blast plate

 

 

Step 25: Detail of driver side transmission from rear with blast plate installed. Note the shifter cables run forward past the bracket. There should be enough room so they are not pinched in anyway.

 

 

Step 26: Passenger side detail of installed transmission with blast plate. Note how the shifter cable passes through the blast plate.

 

 

Step 27: passenger side detail of installed transmission with blast plate. Note how the shifter cable passes through the blast plate.

 

 

Step 10: Disconnect lower control arm or A arm and lower ball joint. Cotter pin and castle nut 19mm.

 

When I replaced my front lower A-arms, I did one removing the cotter pin, castle nut and separating the ball joint from the a-arm as you are doing above. I did the 2nd one unbolting one bolt pictured in the middle of your picture and just removing the whole ball joint assembly as one piece still connected to the a-arm. It was much easier for me to just remove the whole ball joint assembly.

When I replaced my front lower A-arms, I did one removing the cotter pin, castle nut and separating the ball joint from the a-arm as you are doing above. I did the 2nd one unbolting one bolt pictured in the middle of your picture and just removing the whole ball joint assembly as one piece still connected to the a-arm. It was much easier for me to just remove the whole ball joint assembly.

 

I tried that initially and I broke a bolt and ended up having to replace a knuckle. I decided to replace both ball joints anyway as the seals were completely trashed and it would have been a matter of time before they were shot. I also found out one of my wheel bearings was starting to get loose so I replaced that as well. $$$

is there anyway to do this without dropping the transmission?... it seems like a good mod if your going into the transmission, but other wise it seems very time consuming for what you get.

It you want to remove the bolts by drilling holes in your transmission tunnel power to ya. The bolts are about 10 inches long and there's no realistic way to remove and replace them while leaving the transmission in place.

I think there's documentation out there somewhere from someone with a 4th-gen who peeled back the carpet and cut passthrough holes in the transmission tunnel, seems like that would be worth examining. Probably makes the actual install a little more cramped, but peeling back carpet is a lot less involved than dropping the tranny, especially if you don't have the facilities or tools for option #2.

@cww516 I wouldn't blame someone for trying that as it saves you the immense amount of labor to remove the trans but if you are going to do a clutch might as well drop the trans. What would you do to seal the holes after drilling?

Probably some thin steel and RTV to patch it from the inside, and a spritz of undercoat on the outside to keep it sealed. I'm sure you could use sheetmetal screws or something, but if the patch is big enough, the RTV should be enough. I'm not ballsy enough to try to weld on something inside the car, otherwise that could be an option as well.

I can't wait to see someone do it. For some reason I prefer mods that only used bolts.

Cutting holes in the interior for access to the transmission is a hack job in my book.

Not saying I'd do it, although if the vehicle was older, or I didn't care about it too much, I'd be tempted.

Very nice write up Jared.

Very nice write up Jared.

 

Thanks VR! These blasts plates look amazing and the welding and powder coating make them a professional product. I really hope this group buy does well and we can see more products from you in the future. Did I hear someone say crash bar with FMIC mount or was it brush guard?