Project 02: Engine Build

So as a few of you may know, i have been diagnosed with a spun bearing (the related thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bogged-down-highway-and-died-168920.html?t=168920). Today i brought the engine block and heads to a friend of ours to get it checked out to confirm and check how extensive the damage is; this friday he'l come up with a quote for the rebuild. The mechanic who took the engine out for me tells me that he found some metal shavings in the oil so i can somewhat get an idea...it might be bad. Ill find out friday and will keep whoevers interested posted on this thread.

 

Also here are some pics of the car. You'l also be able to tell why even after this im not selling it just yet...shes just too clean. Also, note the dent in the pan that may have been the culprit (also to be discovered friday).

 

While the engine is dismantled, my goal is to get the entire intake/air related system, running as cool as possible. Here are the things i plan on getting depending on the price of the rebuild (mechanic is charging me around 700 to remove, dismantle, put it back together and install...fair?):

 

-Engine block intake manifold spacers Purchased, Received

-Cold air intake (routed to the area under the intake box), wrapped, oxygen sensor as close to the inlet tube as possible Decided on an open induction setup

-Turbo blanket

-Header wrap Purchased

-TGV Delete (will do it at the machine shop) Finished 113011: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/custom-tgv-delete-171756.html?p=3581306

-Catless DP, wrapped 3" shorty dp, 2" adapter welded on...possible cutout to be installed before the other cat in the future...

-Downpipe 3" adapter Purchased, Received

-TMIC (maybe, really depends on the price..)

-Engine Rebuild Complete: 112911

 

If theres anything else anyone might think would be a good idea in relation to my goal for this project, let me know.

 

***updated last pic with the new engine for before and after***

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By oxygen sensor as close to inlet tube as possible, what are you referencing? The MAF? You should be fine with the full stock intake as it's not that restrictive and is a cold air system (get a high flow panel).

 

TMIC is probably a must if you currently have a 16G and were using the OEM. IPR fits well (with a few washer shims for the bracket and it goes in a lot easier with the AVO tb hose)

thanks

 

sorry, yes i meant the MAF. full stock intake i noticed is alot of plastic that just seems to suck up all the heat around it. Also, have you heard of anyone taking the insulation off the hood? i know on some cars doing so can cause the paint to fade real bad. the idea of moving the MAF was to get as accurate or a measurement as possible of whats going through the intake.

 

Yea i figured asmuch, that OEM IC is really small. not only that, whenever id drive the car, and not even spiritedly, it would be hot to the touch...so it wasent doing much of anything (thus the idea behind the cold air system).

 

How are the prices generally on the IPR ic's? (dont mind if its used either, as long as the fins are okay, theres nothing much else to it)

The MAF is located outside of the boundary layer in the core flow, so it will meter accurately. Since mass is conserved and the air is uncompressed, the flow at the inlet of the pipe is the same mass flow at the compressor inlet.

 

Now I want to calculate boundary layer and other fun aerospacey things

 

IPR was something like $514 with a heat-coated color of my choosing. I believe the vendor was AJW Performance. The IPR and Torque Solutions are one and the same. Used AVO/Perrin/IPR pop up occasionally.

Sounds like you know your stuff..lol and you do that. Science major?

 

Ouch. I wish my hair brained idea on a stand alone a/c system integrated with the TMIC was possible.

You could run a refrigeration system to the intercooler to lower temps, but the power required to run the system would probably negate any gains. I think BAC5.2 already did some calculations.

alright, just got off the phone with the machinist who would be rebuilding my engine and he said roughly 1.4k-1.5k to rebuild...which is awesome! that leaves me with enough to take care of the other things within this project of mine and the tune to make sure everything is running ship shape. after this just have to make sure about the tranny fluid and i should be set for a while.

 

btw, if anyone is interested in a 2.5gt 05' that has some damage to the right side, engine is intact so is the front end and rear of the car; would be good for a parting out and whatnot. car is located up in albany; PM me for details.

 

So sometime this week when he starts the build, i go by and take pictures of progress and whatnot and also ask if hed like to share his contact info with the Tristate LGT community. He's been given good remarks by former boss's of mine and my current boss so i trust him.

 

-More to come!-

Did your mechanic tell you the cause of this spun bearing? oil starvation I presume. But what caused this oil starvation?

Did your mechanic tell you the cause of this spun bearing? oil starvation I presume. But what caused this oil starvation?

 

Actually, i was told the bearings were fine; it was the main bearing that went. He told me it was pretty chewn up and that there was a good amount of debris in the oil. Im hoping not much of it go to the turbo as the FP oil line called for removing the banjo bolt filter due to restriction issues. Whats weird though is that i he asked me if i had oil and im very sure that i did because i checked before i left work that day; right after i stopped to get my inspection done, and all this happened 20 mins after the inspection.

 

Id like to do some research on inline oil filters that can fit with the FP oil line; in the meantime, anyone have any experience with those? Any issues with restriction?

So i went to the shop today to check out my engine and make the deposit and it seems that there was a rod that was a bit loose. Also while picking up my TGVs to do my delete ( small project thread here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/custom-tgv-delete-171756.html?p=3581306) the mechanic told me that the oil outlet clamp wasent on fully and that possibly under pressure the oil could leak. adding up everything, oil pickup intact, oil before my trip back home, running fine and then a sudden death...but with that said i still need to send my turbo to get inspected.

 

Anywho check the above link for the latest happenings with my engine. btw, CNT racing DPs were on backorder on the websites i get all my stuff from. Any suggestions on any other companies that make decent dps or somewhere else i can get cnt's?

Uber long wait but it was mostly worth it. Especially for the price i got it for.

 

Hopefully i can get the pictures from him this week for more detailed pictures but for now, here is the new engine. New waterpump, oil pump, crank bearing, thrust bearings, rebuild heads, block sandblasted, all new seals/gaskets, and crankcase was painted blue (he was going to paint it anyway and the choices i had were black, chevy orange and blue).

 

Looks like ill be back on the road soon enough.

Also finally got my tgvs back. Check the link in the OP for details

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So was there any modification to the engine itself, like overbored cylinders/pistons, port n polish head, 3+ angle valve job, etc? Or was it a straight rebuild?

 

I like the blue block. Black would probably be more practical, but blue is unique. I like it.

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So was there any modification to the engine itself, like overbored cylinders/pistons, port n polish head, 3+ angle valve job, etc? Or was it a straight rebuild?

 

I like the blue block. Black would probably be more practical, but blue is unique. I like it.

 

Unfortunately no. Being that this is my daily driver, i don't want to go too overboard with things until i have another car i can rely on. So yea, engine internal wise, this build was pretty much stock. The last project i was trying to complete was to lower ambient temps in the engine bay and optimize airflow. That was my goal so we'l see how it goes afterwards.

 

Thanks, my choices were blue, chevy orange, and black, buut i figured id do something a little different.

So i was at the mechanic all day today getting things together and when we started the car to let it warm up for a bit (a while actually). I went to take it out the shop and around a couple of times to make sure of everything and i noticed a loud hissing coming from under the hood, and then a check engine light. I pull out my laptop to check what the code was and it said i was running too lean...vacuum leak, being that it was after the maf sensor and would not provide enough fuel...anywho i brought it back to the shop and they sorted it out (dident want to touch anything so nobody sais i messed anything up and then they dont want to pay for anything that goes wrong). Otherwise drove around for about 15 miles, found a hill and kept my rpms under 2k to get the engine to load up and build pressure and heat. all throughout the drive, unless absolutely necessary, i used the engine to slow down. Tomorrow morning before work ill bypass the solenoid to keep my boost down to 7psi and start creeping up to 3k. Then when i get back from work tomorrow (should have atleast 50miles by then), ill change the oil and step it up another 1k.

Must feel good to be driving it again.

 

Good Luck

Definitely. And thanks

So i ran into some issues today with 1, running to lean (im assuming from the TGV and spacers), and 2, camshaft timing, no idea why. In any case i also noticed what seems like oil on the underbody and it was burning off while i was driving. Also noticed sometimes it would be a little difficult getting into 2nd from 3rd, but only twice in my 40min drive. Im not even going to touch anything that way the shop and/or my machinist dosent say it was my fault. Hopefully after this, first oil change, and a new map, this will be the end of most major issues. Any suggestions?

Hopefully everything works out this time. Did u bore the cylinders out or did u just do new rings

Just honed, so may be slightly larger for a tight fit thats about it; and thanks

Did you get the P0011 code fixed yet ?

 

Could be a bad OCV or the banjo filter in the back of the drivers side head.

Not yet, but ill update this thread when i get everything cleaned out and remapped (running lean). I dident think about that filter...actually completely forgot about it. ill pull out that bolt and see if theres anything in there. That could very well be why only bank-1 threw a code.

you notice how much of that blue you see after adding all the accessories back nice clean engine