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how much hp can the 5sp auto hold?


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i am looking to start modding as soon as a i get my car back from the dealer with my new engine....

 

i want cat-back exhaust, cat less up pipe, cai for hp

tein coilovers for handling...

 

i know that exhaust and an intake is going to add a ton of hp, but how much hp can i add without worrying about my tranny going boom???

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i am looking to start modding as soon as a i get my car back from the dealer with my new engine....

 

i want cat-back exhaust, cat less up pipe, cai for hp

tein coilovers for handling...

 

i know that exhaust and an intake is going to add a ton of hp, but how much hp can i add without worrying about my tranny going boom???

 

^No to everything in big letters.

 

downpipe and tune for quick cheap hp.

 

please search

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:munch:

 

infact an intake on these cars add nearly no horsepower until 350whp, and you need a tune for it. get an uppipe, downpipe, cbe, and a tune either via accessport or open source and call it a day. the downpipe with the tune is what gets you power, the catback and the intake together will get you very minimal as they are not the restriction in these cars, it's the downpipe and the sucky tune.

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Take your intake-making-power idea and toss it in the bin.

 

I don't know the 5EAT's limitations, but here's some ways to make a little more power right out of the gate:

 

1. Downpipe. CNT makes a catted one for $350. You already have an up-pipe judging by your other thread, so you don't need to worry about that.

 

2. Tune. Infamous performance will do one for $150.

 

3. Swap bars. Because corners exist. Whitelines cost $200 each (front and back).

 

4. Brakes. Because going faster means stopping faster when you need to. Stoptech pads are $130, Centrics are $60.

 

5. IP&T filtered oil supply lines. Because blowing up turbos is no fun. $220.

 

So that's $1,000 right there, and you've gained a bit of hp, a bit of handling, a bit of braking ability, and no turbo explosion. See how you like that for a few months before continuing on with your mods.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Mods to consider further down the road:

 

1. Coilovers. Tein, KW, and Cusco make good ones. Not sure about BC's or other brands. Will cost anywhere from $1,000 to $2,300.

 

2. Catback. Don't add too much horsepower unless acting as a supporting mod for a turbo, but can still make your car sound fast (for whatever that's worth). Magnaflow and Invidia. Will cost anywhere from $500 to $1,000.

 

3. Brakes. New rotors (Stoptech, Centric, DBA) will help you stop even faster. A BBK will help you stop even even faster. Rotors cost about $200 for the front or rear ($400 for both), and a BBK can cost you upwards of $3,000.

 

4. TMIC, EBCS, fuel pump, and injectors. Good supporting mods for a bigger turbo. All of this will cost you close to $1,500.

 

5. A bigger turbo. Good for when you've got supporting mods. Will cost you anywhere from $700 to $1,200.

 

Only when it comes to turbo choices will you start bumping your head on the transmission's power limitations. As you can see, the road to a bigger turbo is very long, and very expensive. If you total up just the engine mods on this list (without including the turbo), you're looking at over $2,500.

 

Note: all the prices I listed are assuming the items are new. You can pick up certain items used and get them for cheaper... whether or not you should is kind of up to common sense.

 

Note: I wrote all this because I'm procrastinating for an essay hardcore right now. My idiocity is your gain.

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I've heard that a subaru 5-speed manual tranny is good up to about 300 whp, but I'm not sure if an automatic would be any less durable.

 

This is true, but an auto to manual swap is time consuming and VERY pricy. Not everyone's cup of tea.

 

I put 500+ ftlbs / 500+ HP through my stock 5mt. I'm mean to it. It hasn't broken yet. I'm trying. Really, I am. It won't break.

 

 

Stock 5EAT I'd start getting worried around 325 ftlbs. I'm told with valve body upgrades and such they will also hold in the 500 range.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I put 500+ ftlbs / 500+ HP through my stock 5mt. I'm mean to it. It hasn't broken yet. I'm trying. Really, I am. It won't break.

 

The 5spd *WILL* break if you launch it hard/shock it bad with enough power. Can it take reasonable abuse? Absolutely but the OEM clutch will not like more than stage 2 power for long with 90% of owners. There are numerous examples on the forum of 5spd's being broken from track use. Mw's own words here:

 

I expect something to break every time I drive my modified car.

 

If you are going to DD it, shift smoothly and don't shock/launch the tranny it will be fine. My last setup had 425wtq but I am certain I could break it if I launched hard enough. I am now running the same turbo as Jmorris (officially the fastest LGT on the forum) who has toasted his tranny.

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Last time I tried to break mine was at the dragstrip. 5000rpm launch with my 3600lb outback. Front wheels hoppin.

 

Shifting at 7200rpm I missed 4th and grabbed 2nd from 3rd. Needle physically hit the right side of the tach and paused for a sec or two before coming back down. I'm guessing almost 10,000rpm. Almost took out an engine instead of a tranny.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Take your intake-making-power idea and toss it in the bin.

 

I don't know the 5EAT's limitations, but here's some ways to make a little more power right out of the gate:

 

1. Downpipe. CNT makes a catted one for $350. You already have an up-pipe judging by your other thread, so you don't need to worry about that.

 

2. Tune. Infamous performance will do one for $150.

 

3. Swap bars. Because corners exist. Whitelines cost $200 each (front and back).

 

4. Brakes. Because going faster means stopping faster when you need to. Stoptech pads are $130, Centrics are $60.

 

5. IP&T filtered oil supply lines. Because blowing up turbos is no fun. $220.

 

So that's $1,000 right there, and you've gained a bit of hp, a bit of handling, a bit of braking ability, and no turbo explosion. See how you like that for a few months before continuing on with your mods.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Mods to consider further down the road:

 

1. Coilovers. Tein, KW, and Cusco make good ones. Not sure about BC's or other brands. Will cost anywhere from $1,000 to $2,300.

 

2. Catback. Don't add too much horsepower unless acting as a supporting mod for a turbo, but can still make your car sound fast (for whatever that's worth). Magnaflow and Invidia. Will cost anywhere from $500 to $1,000.

 

3. Brakes. New rotors (Stoptech, Centric, DBA) will help you stop even faster. A BBK will help you stop even even faster. Rotors cost about $200 for the front or rear ($400 for both), and a BBK can cost you upwards of $3,000.

 

4. TMIC, EBCS, fuel pump, and injectors. Good supporting mods for a bigger turbo. All of this will cost you close to $1,500.

 

5. A bigger turbo. Good for when you've got supporting mods. Will cost you anywhere from $700 to $1,200.

 

Only when it comes to turbo choices will you start bumping your head on the transmission's power limitations. As you can see, the road to a bigger turbo is very long, and very expensive. If you total up just the engine mods on this list (without including the turbo), you're looking at over $2,500.

 

Note: all the prices I listed are assuming the items are new. You can pick up certain items used and get them for cheaper... whether or not you should is kind of up to common sense.

 

Note: I wrote all this because I'm procrastinating for an essay hardcore right now. My idiocity is your gain.

 

This is a very good guide on modding

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Last time I tried to break mine was at the dragstrip. 5000rpm launch with my 3600lb outback. Front wheels hoppin.

 

Shifting at 7200rpm I missed 4th and grabbed 2nd from 3rd. Needle physically hit the right side of the tach and paused for a sec or two before coming back down. I'm guessing almost 10,000rpm. Almost took out an engine instead of a tranny.

 

2nd gear ratio: 1.822

3rd gear ratio: 1.296

(1.822 / 1.296) x 7200 rpm = 10,122 rpm

 

You really revved the engine to 10 g's! :eek: That's nuts, considering red line is at 6500.

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thanks for the responses, i am not retarded, i meant i know cai/exhaust wont add a lot of hp.... i honeslty didnt pay attention when i was typing....im sure people thought i was when i said cai/and exhaust was gonna add a ton of hp....

 

i added less then 20whp from my header, intake, and full exhaust on my spec-v, so i know i wouldnt gain much...

 

i was asking because the se-r sentra tranny can only hold 200 whp and then it goes boom....

 

i wanted to make sure i could add a few goodies before i worry....i did search the forum, and honestly, i work 60-70 hours a week, and go to gym 2 hours daily.... i have no patience for search.....

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