6000k *Japanese* VOLT HID Review

Okay to start off, the reason I bought this 6000k VOLT kit was because of my frustrations that some people thought were 'acceptable' with the DDM HID Kit.

Basically, if the headlights were on when I started the car, they were guaranteed NOT to ignite. If I tried to turn them on with the car already started, there would be about a 50% chance one of them would not ignite. You can read about it here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ht=hid+startup

First off, here are some pictures of my setup prior to installation of the VOLT Kit. (4300k DDM)

Color contrast between 4300k DDM HID and Stock Halogen Fogs

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07924.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07925.jpg

Output color - Again, the reason I was changing kits was not in an effort to boost output, but to have a more reliable setup without dropping > $200 bucks.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07926-1.jpg

Onto the VOLT Kit. I purchased this H7 kit from XenonExpert for $120 plus shipping. They're made from Japanese parts, and only require about 4.5 amps at initial start up in contrast to my DDMs which drew about 6.7 amps. (I've been using a Die-Hard Gold battery rated at 650CCA)

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07934.jpg

Box shipped from Canada via UPS (included random gloves)

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07936.jpg

After Install - Slightly more Blue hue, but nothing ridiculous. I was expecting more of a difference in output since the VOLT kit is 6000k and the DDMs were 4300k, but it was minimal; even on the road with street lamps, etc.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07940.jpg

The most obvious difference in color comes at the Cutoffs. (notice I filled in my Squirrel Spotters while I had my bulbs out)

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07942.jpg

Shot of the front end

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07944.jpg

Again:

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07947.jpg

In terms of reliability, I did absolutely nothing different with the electrical setup of both kits. My DDM kit had a harness, and even with it they would not always light up. The VOLT kit on the other hand has done precisely what XenonExpert claimed they would - Start up EVERY TIME. If I remember correctly, I spent about the same on the VOLT kit as I did on my DDM kit; right around a hundred dollars. If the slightly more blue hue does not bother you, I would definitely recommend the VOLT kit over the DDMs. Other color options should be offered in the future for the VOLT kit as well. I have heard some people praise the DDM kit for it's lifetime warranty compared to the VOLT's 1 year, but I don't find it to be of as much value as people say. The DDM kit has to have the warranty to sell it's product, while much better brands (including philips) only offer a 1 year warranty...afterall, my Subaru had a 60k mile warranty, and a Kia has a 100k mile warranty, but which vehicle is more reliable

Overall, I am very happy with my purchase, except for now I have a DDM kit sitting in my garage:mad:

Thanks for the write up. I have not switched to HIDs yet because of the complaints some have had. This obviously gave us another choice.

Likewise. I'm anxious to get HIDs, but that is one upgrade that has to be solid. I can't have my headlights not working.

Glad you like the new kit. Our customers are really pleased with it. Thanks for your feedback!

Oliver

Looks nice. I am going to have to do that squirrel finder fix...it looks so much better. I've got two DDM thin ballast kits with harnesses, lows and fogs, and I love the light, but yeah, that one bulb just will NOT fire when starting the car...

3 outta 4 ain't bad, but it's annoying. Always have to double check to see if they are all on.

Alaskajoel...can't help but notice you're in Texas...traitor!!

Alaskajoel...can't help but notice you're in Texas...traitor!!

Dude, I am a filthy no good traitor! I grew up in Juneau, lived in Sitka as well as the Kenai/Soldotna area. Moved to Texas and have heard nothing but "Texas is so big" crap. Drives me nuts - Texans know nothing about BIG:eek:

Anyway, yes, I am assuming the problem with the DDMs was their inital draw. When I tested the DDMs before removing them from my car, their draw was just over 6.7 amps. The VOLT kit was between 4.3-4.8 Amps (It's been about 30 degrees outside too)

I know what you guys mean regarding this having to be a "solid" mod. No headlights is crappy, which is why i've carried a set of H7 Halogens in the car just in case. The build quality on these is far superior to the DDMs, but don't get your self thinking you have an OEM setup here - I still like the HID setup in my IS300 better, but for the price these can not be beat.

howd you do the fix?

i just bought these too...

alaskajoel--you have my sympathies for being in TX

How'd the squirrel finder fix go for you? I need to do that but am worried about it being over-complicated. I have no garage, and it's not exactly warm here at the moment. I don't want to have to bake my headlights apart to get at it. Were you able to do it without taking apart your headlights?

When I tested the DDMs before removing them from my car, their draw was just over 6.7 amps. The VOLT kit was between 4.3-4.8 Amps (It's been about 30 degrees outside too)

Did you measure the current with a DMM or a current probe and a scope? The reason I ask is because most DMMs are too slow to capture the real startup currents. The initial current draw may have been even higher than what you measured and been the cause of your trouble. When I measured the Apexcone ballasts, the initial draw was above 14A, then quickly dropped to a lower value which eventually tappered to the steady state current after many seconds.

Did you measure the current with a DMM or a current probe and a scope? The reason I ask is because most DMMs are too slow to capture the real startup currents. The initial current draw may have been even higher than what you measured and been the cause of your trouble. When I measured the Apexcone ballasts, the initial draw was above 14A, then quickly dropped to a lower value which eventually tappered to the steady state current after many seconds.

I totally agree with you here - I did use a digital multimeter to measure the current, and while you're right about them being too slow to capture the real instantaneous startup current, I am only comparing them against each other, not another value. The multimeter gave a reading before the engine completed cranking, and it was that 'during crank' value that I was most interested in - not so much to get an accurate representation of current draw, but two values which I can compare. Quite frankly, I totally expect the inital draw to be larger then what I was able to read with my DMM but these numbers still show the comparitive difference between the cranking values of both kits.

As for fixing the squirrel (spotters, finders, holes, whatever:lol:) I didn't have a problem doing them without taking my headlamps apart. Granted, I have pretty long/skinny fingers. A buddy of mine with a 07 Camry said to just bend the angled metal piece down to cover it up, so I tried that first. IMHO, it's better then not doing anything to them (you can see how prominent they are in my before pictures) In my after pictures, I have them bent down - They still let a little amount of light through, and leave mild glare, so I used the quick steel to fill them in completely. Again, I didn't have a problem doing it with a small mirror, and my thin fingers.

Cool...tis what I wanted to hear.

Supposed to warm up to above freezing tomorrow, so maybe I'll do it then. That's t-shirt weather

edit: wrong thread!

my bad haha

Nice thread. I've been contemplating getting a HID kit but was worried about the HIDs not starting.

I'd really like to get these in 4300K

how would the xtreme HIDs compare with the volt? and ddm?

DDM is a Chinese made kit and use Chinese parts. Its a good Chinese kit but it's not as good as HID kits like the Volt and Xtreme that use Japanese parts.

Volt is made in Taiwan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is made in Japan with Japanese parts.

Xtreme is still the best and most rugged kit out there. -2F tonight and I ALWAYS keep my lights to the on position. They light up every time.

But if you're looking at 6000K, the VOLT kit is the best value around because it's super reliable and cheaper than Xtreme.

DDM is a Chinese made kit and use Chinese parts. Its a good Chinese kit but it's not as good as HID kits like the Volt and Xtreme that use Japanese parts.

 

Volt is made in Taiwan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is made in Japan with Japanese parts.

 

Xtreme is still the best and most rugged kit out there. -2F tonight and I ALWAYS keep my lights to the on position. They light up every time.

 

But if you're looking at 6000K, the VOLT kit is the best value around because it's super reliable and cheaper than Xtreme.

I went with a Xtreme HID kit 4300k Phillips.

http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme_HID_4300k_Philips_Xenon_HID_Conversion_Kits_p/xt-4kp.htm