New year, new build...v.3.0...R?

You just have to trust buyee packages them well enough to survive the journey.

The final touch for the calipers.

Few more things.

 

I made a graph showing the difference in oil pressure after cutting the bottom of the pickup off. You can see at 3500 RPM the VVL kicks on which causes a dip in pressure. The modded pickup recovers a bit and then pressure drop starts, but it's quite a bit better than before the pickup mod. Oil temps were 205-208 for both pulls. Oil for both is Redline 5w50. The uncut pickup engine made it 8 months before it wiped the bearings. I'm hoping the cut pickup solves the problem permanently. I'm going to do intermittent oil sampling and analysis to keep an eye on bearing wear.

 

After installing the brakes, the brake pedal was quite a bit spongier than normal. My spec.B has always had a poor pedal feel, but the new calipers made it worse. It has gotten a bit better now that the brakes are getting worn in, but it still isn't acceptable to me.

 

I found that the solution is to install a 2004-2007 STI brake master cylinder. There are a few problems with installing one of these on an LGT with VDC. First, the bolt pattern on the brake booster isn't the same. Second, the STI master has 10mm flare fittings and the VDC brake lines going to the master are 12mm.

 

To make all this work you need an STI master cylinder, STI brake booster, an STI brake booster vacuum hose, and a way to adapt the 12mm brake lines to the 10mm master.

 

I found some fittings by BrakeQuip that adapt a 10mm flare to 12mm flare. All I'm waiting for now is the vacuum line that has the check valve in it. The STI booster doesn't have the check attached to it like the Legacy does. The STI booster hose has the check in the hose.

Edited September 13, 2020 by BrandonspecB

I just got my booster in yesterday, and I have a new MC in the mail now. Luckily I don't have the 10 to 12 fitting issue.

I'm just waiting for the booster hose and mine can go in. I can't wait to get rid of this mush pedal.

Got the STI master and booster installed. Pretty boring picture wise. The adapters worked perfectly. BrakeQuip part number BQ44. The brake line on the side needed to be shortened 3/8". This was a bit of a pain. I couldn't push the nut back far enough to get the flaring tool on, so I had to straighten the line out to get enough room to make a new flare and then bend it back.

 

The pedal feel is absolutely amazing. No more mushy pedal. I can rest my foot on the pedal and get the brakes to activate. You do need to press the pedal harder to get the same amount of braking as before, but it's really not an issue. Definitely a worthwhile mod.

I would love to have that pedal feel. Edited September 23, 2020 by xt2005bonbon

Definitely worth it. It's weird going back to the daily now. It used to have the better feeling brake pedal, but now it feels like mush.

 

Your cars would be a direct bolt on. So would my daily. Might have to swap it out.

Oh really? direct bolt on huh. pricey mod? I guess I could google the parts

Cars without VDC have 10mm lines that screw right into the STI master. I think with 4th gen 4 cylinder cars VDC wasn't available until it came on the specb in 2007. Just check you brake lines at the master to be sure. If a 10mm wrench fits on the nut then the STI master will bolt right on without adapters or cutting lines.

 

It wasn't too pricey. I found some low mileage parts on ebay that didn't look like garbage and ran me like $120.

Oh really? direct bolt on huh. pricey mod? I guess I could google the parts

 

I got the booster for $35 shipped on eBay. It had a little corrosion on the lower lip but I sanded it and repainted the unit looks new. The master was $188 online from SubaruParts.com best price I could find.

You just need to swap the part that attaches the brake pedal to the booster from the Legacy to the STI unit.

Easy swap minus the crawling under the dash part. Just kind of tight under there.

Thanks guys. That's definitely a mod on my list for both cars then. Both without VDC as well.

On a side note, it's nice to have two OBXTs, but it sucks cause you have to buy stuff twice .

18 psi. Super soft pump gas tune. Need to figure out why whenever I hit the rev limiter I get a throttle position code.

 

1st - 4th gear

I need H6 manual drivetrain in my life.... the turbo would be awesome too!

 

Scotty

After thinking about it and looking at other logs, I think I know why I get a check engine light on the limiter. It actually only happens when I have flat shift active and lift when I clutch in. You can hear the pop from the cut and then check engine light. Need to look into the wiring for the flat shift.

Bought a dragy to get some 1/4 mile MPH data since our track is no more. Wasn't too concerned about E/T or launching or shifting perfectly. The trans is old and has lots of passes on it, so I was shifting as fast as it would let me.

 

For reference, stock GT-Rs trap less than 120 at our 4200' elevation.

 

Turbo EZ30 dragy test

Bought a dragy to get some 1/4 mile MPH data since our track is no more. Wasn't too concerned about E/T or launching or shifting perfectly. The trans is old and has lots of passes on it, so I was shifting as fast as it would let me.

 

 

 

For reference, stock GT-Rs trap less than 120 at our 4200' elevation.

 

 

 

Turbo EZ30 dragy test

Dude... that's nuts! Sounds awesome and looks traction limited??? How easy is it to use the Dragy? I've been on the fence of getting one..

 

Scotty

I know you are not looking for the E/T, but you have to beat supergramps

Actually, you are probably beating it already due to the altitude difference.

Dude... that's nuts! Sounds awesome and looks traction limited??? How easy is it to use the Dragy? I've been on the fence of getting one..

 

Scotty

 

Thanks man. No not really traction limited there. I had the launch control speed set at 10 mph, so that was the limiter keeping it at 5500 until I exceeded 10 mph. It can launch damn hard if I want it to. It built 19 psi for the few seconds it was on the launch control.

 

The dragy is amazingly fun. Super easy to use, super accurate. I want to dragy everything I see. Front end loader? Let's see what it runs! The app is really cool to go see everyone's times. It's funny to see the 1/2 mile E/T was set by a 6 second 1/4 mile pass while the car was slowing down.

 

I know you are not looking for the E/T, but you have to beat supergramps

Actually, you are probably beating it already due to the altitude difference.

 

Haha, well, after you said this I went and looked at supergramps time. The only time I could find for supergramps was a 12.7 @ 112. Gramps went 11.92 @ 122 making 360 whp, E85, and 8 psi. It was pretty much gutted though.

 

Eventually I'll get faster than that. I'm really happy with 120 mph on what is basically a wastegate pressure, fail-safe map. My next step is going to be getting it up to 25 psi with the meth spraying and some timing in it. I'll do another dragy run then. My end goal is 135 mph traps. I'm sure this setup will make that power. The turbo is barely working right now.

Actually, I was thinking of gramps instead of supergramps. Yeah, the former did a high 11. I actually forgot what supergramps did. Did not remember gramps was gutted though. So, yeah not exactly fair.

 

Before I google it, what do you think your E/T would be with a 135 mph trap speed? 10 sec+?

135 mph trap speed with a good launch and shifts should easily be a 10 second pass.

Got more of a technical update rather than a picture update. Although I do have some JDM bits on the way, so I will have some cool pics to show off in the next month or so. Nothing crazy, just getting rid of the hideous US bumpers and doing something different with the hood.

 

I've been controlling the VVL by switching the solenoids on/off at different points. I've been using the Haltech switched cam control function to do this. This function is 100% on or 100% off, no in between.

 

Well, I found an article that goes into detail on how the factory Subaru ECU controls the VVL. Rather than switching the solenoids between 100% on/off, they control the oil pressure to the lifters by pulsing the solenoids. This makes sense since the VVL solenoids are pretty much identical to the AVCS solenoids.

 

This shows how versatile the Haltech is. I changed my VVL outputs from the switched cam control to generic, set them up to be controlled with duty cycle from a table and simulated how the factory ECU controls the lifters in the table.

 

Hopefully this is helpful for anybody else setting up an EZ30.

Edited November 12, 2020 by BrandonspecB

You've got the exact wheel/tire setup I wanna put on. I'm so jealous!!

Did an oil change today and put in a new oil pickup since I feel like I took just a hair too much off the other one.

 

I got some pictures showing how close the pickup sits to the pan.

 

The stock pickup damn near touches the oil pan. Maybe 1/16"-3/32" clearance at most. This is way too little.

 

I cut off just under the crimp in the pickup and that is pretty close to 3/8" clearance.

 

Everything I've ever read has said you want 1/4" to 3/8" clearance so as not to restrict the oil pump.

Just a little teaser for tomorrow.