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What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3


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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got a chance to get a decent picture of my car's new vinyl decal overlays. I got them from Orsini Vinyl Design. Kinda botched the front application, so you can't look too closely at it, but the steering wheel and rear ones were perfect.

 

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Washed both of the cars last weekend. Realized that its been about 4 months since I last washed the legacy. Spent most of the time on the outside of the car and ended up clay barring the whole car. Wanted to get some wax on it before the weather gets bad. Hoping to get the interior done in the next few days.
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Had to complement my new STI wheels with Rally Armor UR mud flaps! Got these in Silver, but they look more like a gray. Still excited about them though! Found 4 years of dirt and rocks in my rear bumper during installation through :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

 

How tough was the install? Thinking about doing it myself vs shop. Don’t have specialty tools for it just basics.

 

 

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Here are the pics of the final results:

 

https://imgur.com/a/IwJ9hl5

 

Also anybody got a suggestion on how to fill in a small gap? The body shop is worried if they tight the bracket or try to fix it it might snap. I let one of my friends drive the car and he damaged the front lip. That’s why it needed to be repainted and repaired.

 

 

 

Where did you get your grill?

 

 

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How tough was the install? Thinking about doing it myself vs shop. Don’t have specialty tools for it just basics.

 

 

 

Super simple, I’m pretty sure all you need is a flat head for the pop clips, and a Philips for the rest. The directions that Rally Armor give you are so so. But there’s not too much too it.

 

 

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Productive day:

 

1. I had the annual state safety and emission inspection performed.

 

2. One of the tires had a bulge/bubble forming on the side wall, so that was replaced.

 

3. Oil and filter change was done too.

 

 

The dealership wanted $90+ for cabin filter and engine air filter, but I passed on that. Picked up FRAM filters: CF10285 (cabin) and CA9997 (engine). Cabin filter was a good fit, however, the engine filter was not--unable to close the air box. Upon closer inspection, the FRAM engine filter was not the same dimension as OEM.

 

What other non-OEM brands have people used that were a better fit?

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Productive day:

 

 

 

1. I had the annual state safety and emission inspection performed.

 

 

 

2. One of the tires had a bulge/bubble forming on the side wall, so that was replaced.

 

 

 

3. Oil and filter change was done too.

 

 

 

 

 

The dealership wanted $90+ for cabin filter and engine air filter, but I passed on that. Picked up FRAM filters: CF10285 (cabin) and CA9997 (engine). Cabin filter was a good fit, however, the engine filter was not--unable to close the air box. Upon closer inspection, the FRAM engine filter was not the same dimension as OEM.

 

 

 

What other non-OEM brands have people used that were a better fit?

I used K&N Filters for Cabin, Air and Oil..

 

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What other non-OEM brands have people used that were a better fit?

2015 Legacy 2.5, 2016 Outback 2.5:

 

 

  • Engine Air Filter = WIX 49012 (exact fit)
  • Cabin Air Filter = WIX 24483

Edited by ammcinnis

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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Well I've been putting it off for a while but I'm a few hundred away from 120k so I decided to get the plugs changed on my 3.6r.. Car has been running strong so I really didn't want to change at recommend 65k.. Here are a couple pics I took of the old plugs overall they look pretty good.. I did notice the 2 outer plugs had a little darker oil on one side nut the other side was clean..

 

I took it to the Dealership because I know there a pain in the ass and since the original ones never had been changed I wanted them to do it. I couldn't believe the price mark up for the plugs.. 22.15 each Plug I wanted to bring my own plugs but they wouldn't honor there 12 month Unlimited Mileage Warranty.. But I did get a deal normal cost is around 650.00 but there was an error in there service pricing for the month so save 200.00... fbb8e298d5e51e8b37e444bd2fd3cc70.jpgaf3e183f2e73aba1380ff577f8509019.jpg

 

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Do you know what cylinder the darker ones came from? I replaced mine at 36K just to see if there was a difference. Also are you running premium fuel only?

 

 

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Not sure which cylinder those were from.. I run 89 Most of the time..

 

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I just got quoted $500 - $650 to change the rear pads by our beloved steelership for the Outback :eek:; yep you read that right, just the pads.. So I'll be doing the brake job myself and probably just take it to a shop for the fluid flush.

 

I'm thinking the 3mm should get me through the winter (~5k miles) in the worst case if I'm not able to get to it in the next month before it starts to get chilly.

 

can anyone that has done their own rotors and pads comment on the time it took you per wheel?

Any gotcha's I should look out for, other than disconnecting the battery, EPB unplug and turning the EPB actuator in?

BrakePadsQuote.thumb.jpg.50c861fefb34e4811513be3f91dd6ad0.jpg

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I just got quoted $500 - $650 to change the rear pads by our beloved steelership for the Outback :eek:; yep you read that right, just the pads.. So I'll be doing the brake job myself and probably just take it to a shop for the fluid flush.

 

I'm thinking the 3mm should get me through the winter (~5k miles) in the worst case if I'm not able to get to it in the next month before it starts to get chilly.

 

can anyone that has done their own rotors and pads comment on the time it took you per wheel?

Any gotcha's I should look out for, other than disconnecting the battery, EPB unplug and turning the EPB actuator in?

 

 

That price for just the pads and no resurfacing of the rotors? I don't understand how they came to that #.

-biggest thing with the real calipers is to get the right tool to turn the caliper back into it's housing. It's tricky because you start off with turning the caliper piston counter clockwise until it stops, then you push it in until it bottoms out in the chamber. And don't put any lubricant on the caliper piston that comes in contact with the inner pad.

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-biggest thing with the real calipers is to get the right tool to turn the caliper back into it's housing.

It's a common generic brake-service tool, available from many sources.

 

... you start off with turning the caliper piston counter clockwise ...
No. It's clockwise. See the Factory Service Manual and technician training materials. Edited by ammcinnis

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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That price for just the pads and no resurfacing of the rotors? I don't understand how they came to that #.

They said 2.5 hrs labor@$130/hr + ~$150 for the pads. He said they would look at the rotors and see if they needed resurfacing; The $650 was probably if they were doing the resurfacing.

I was baffled by the fact that they wanted to charge me 2.5 hrs labor since they already had the car in for replacing all 4 tires... Can't imagine it taking 2.5 hrs for the service tech to slap on pads.

 

It's a common generic brake-service tool, available from many sources.

 

No. It's clockwise. See the Factory Service Manual and technician training materials.

 

Thanks! I was going to grab one of these instead of fumbling around with a snap ring pliers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FW3U26G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1R5RH6SRZN4Q4&psc=1

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