mangry Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Time for a valve inspection. Is there a source for a shim remover/replacement tool that want cost hundreds of dollars $$$$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Ummm... Think your referring to a spring compressor? http://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/512 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangry Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Thanks but not the correct tool. That tool is for removing valve springs/keepers. I'm referring to the tool to remove the shims from the buckets. And its $3-375.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Oh man. I had no idea this was how the older heads were setup, just read around a bit more. My bike has shim under bucket but they are not attached like this. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will pipe in. Is it possible to convert to shim less and get all new buckets to set lash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Looks and sounds like your not intending to change the timing belt in this process. Found this set so you can rotate the bucket down and fish out the shim. https://www.endeavourtools.com.au/shim-style-valve-adjusting-kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangry Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 I have no idea about a conversion without shims. I don't think there's enough room under the hood for that type tool (your link). I have never had to deal with shims in cars or bikes (lucky until now). Some friends did and do with their bike. Actually, I think it wouldn't be such a pain if Subaru had engineered more space under the hood. I don't have time or space to pull the engine just to check and adjust the valves. I talked with dealer parts guy today about it and he told me Subaru doesn't make their own specialty tools. That Kent does, its the only one I've seen for sale and the lowest price USED is $300.00. The tool listed in the manual is discontinued. $400.00 to have done by a shop. The timing belt was done at 120K and its 189K now. You are correct, no plans to change the belt. I want to inspect valve clearance and figured I should be pre-paired once I start. No garage and with all the rain we're having, I have to be able finish things between the storms fronts. CRAZY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Yeah. Gotcha. Your probably right. Was not even thinking about the clearance in the car. Your probably better off letting a shop take care of it. But only one that has experience with Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangry Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 I have a few shops in mind but that’s a last resort. I’d prefer to do it myself (kind of habit). May delay it until I put the CRX back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choover1101 Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 You might pm doublechaz, setnev,Brighton96 and DOHC22RE they have quite a bit of experience on these cars. Also could you post what car you have? The difference between an EJ22 and EJ25 and Outback or non Outback can make changes to what people would suggest. (The outback drivetrain sits 1" lower in the framerails) Also some of these came with hydraulic adjusters such as my 96 GT. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Mine is hydraulic so no direct experience. I did see a bunch of videos by subiperformance where he had a huge selection of buckets of different thickness to set valve lash, but he is a race engine builder, so that may not be normal. With the stuff he has it looks pretty easy on a workbench. In the car doesn't seem possible unless you undo the exhaust and engine mounts and lift it up a few inches at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 I have a few shops in mind but that’s a last resort. I’d prefer to do it myself (kind of habit). May delay it until I put the CRX back on the road. Totally understand that. Miss my CRX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mangry Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 Ok for starters I’m a 15 min drive east of San Francisco,Ca without traffic add traffic and it’s 1 hour or more. The car is a 1998 Legacy Gt Wagon 5MT. My post is not for shims nor buckets, it’s about the tool used to remove the shims with the engine in the car. I miss the CRX as well. It’s been sitting for while (many complications w/me not the car) It will be interesting and weird to be in it again after driving the wagon. Thanks for the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senseless1 Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Have you tried the magnet tip on the pocket screwdriver once you've removed the valve springs? Mine came out with just a magnet. The company 23 spring compressor kit includes a free megnetic pocket screwdriver perfect for removing the keepers and shims/buckets. Fyi the shimless buckets fit as well and weigh less, but it's a pain in the butt measuring every lash unless you already have a full set of buckets sitting around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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