PHDRPH Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) Looking to replace my Subaru Battery. On my third battery. Any recommendations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 25, 2020 by PHDRPH 2017 Subaru Legacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wi_legacy2016 Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gen-6-battery-replacement-info-278179.html?t=278179&highlight=battery+replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 (edited) Looking to replace my Subaru Battery. On my third battery. Any recommendations.For starters, the OE battery is not inherently "undersized." Like many automobile manufacturers, Subaru installs a custom-spec battery from a mainline manufacturer (Johnson Controls) to cut cost and save weight. The OE battery is BCI Group 25. (Note that a battery's BCI Group number only described its physical size and terminal arrangement, not its electrical performance specifications.) Both Group 24 (NOT 24F!) and Group 34 (NOT 34R!) batteries are popular "drop in" replacements that usually have substantially higher capacity than the OE battery. Most aftermarket Group 25 batteries will also have better electrical specs than the Subaru original. Edited February 25, 2020 by ammcinnis "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILLINH Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 I put group 34 in my Legacy, but as ammcinnis said a 24 will also fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 I have the red optima group 25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDRPH Posted February 25, 2020 Author Share Posted February 25, 2020 By “undersized “, I meant the cca. Sorry about my use of wrong term. Which brand would you recommend. I would like a superior battery, to replace the original factory battery. As I said this is my third battery! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 By “undersized “, I meant the cca. If a healthy, fully-charged battery will start the engine at 0 degrees F, it is by definition not "undersized" with respect to CCA. The OE Subaru battery is at least "adequate" in that department. Which brand would you recommend. See the link wi_legacy2016 posted. There are plenty of aftermarket Group, 24, 25, and 34 batteries available, at prices from around $100 to more than $300. I personally think an AGM battery is worth the ~30% higher cost vs. a conventional flooded-cell equivalent. "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grnlantern1 Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Looking to replace my Subaru Battery. On my third battery. Any recommendations. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes a Odyssey Battery will definitely help you.. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitesnake Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 I just went to Costco and picked up an Interstate battery. Just beware if you don't put a battery maintainer while replacing your battery, you might have to reset your Windows (Auto Down). It's in the manual how to reset it. For me, as a coincidence, my seat memory went bad, and was replaced under my extended warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkshooter Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 I went group 34. Battery is shorter but the clamp has enough thread to compensate. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libertarian Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 I love the optima blue top batteries. The extra 2 terminals are a godsend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff51 Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 I installed a Group 25 DuraLast Gold 640 cca battery two years ago, and it is still going strong. I also use a battery tender plugged in every so often to keep the battery charged up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_75 Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 I just went to Costco and picked up an Interstate battery. Just beware if you don't put a battery maintainer while replacing your battery, you might have to reset your Windows (Auto Down). It's in the manual how to reset it. On top of that, if it's out long enough, you'll need to do an idle re-learn procedure as well. I had my first battery go bad under warranty after a year and a half and it was replaced with an interstate. A few months ago I tested the replacement battery after the vehicle started cranking slower. The CCA's with my battery tester showed it was going bad after two years installed, but wasn't dead yet. The SOH was only 68% if I remember right. I did a preemptive strike and replaced it with a Duralast Platinum 25-AGM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDRPH Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 I just replaced my Subaru Battery (third one in THREE YEARS). With a Deka Ultimate. Should be a Bigly improvement. Made in USA[emoji106][emoji631] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) Thanks for following up. The Deka is a good battery. What BCI Group size did you choose? Since you're starting with a good battery, now would be a good time to buy an inexpensive (under $40) "smart" battery charger (a.k.a. battery tender, battery minder, etc.). Charging your battery overnight every month or two will help keep it in top condition. Avoid cheap "trickle chargers" that don't have a long-term "float" or "maintenance" mode, since they can overcharge the battery if left connected. Edited March 2, 2020 by ammcinnis "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHDRPH Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 Dek725MF ULTIMATE B..I have the Noco Genius G3500. I don’t plan on using it, as you suggested. But you never know. Thanks for responding Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pronkie1 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Just had my battery replaced on Tuesday...AAA battery service came out and installed a group 25 battery....142.50 and half hour later it was done...Been acting up since January...I was listening to the radio while installing a new battery on the 1990 Mustang LX 7-up convertible...Had to jump start it with the Mustang...Drove it for 15 minutes then had Oreilly's test it...They said everything was good...Since I retired I don't drive everyday...I noticed if it sat more than three days it was getting harder to start...I drove it on Thursday and then went out this Tuesday and no start...I could have jumped started but just called to get it done and not worry about it anymore...Even though the tech hooked up to the ecu to hold the memory I stilled had to reset the auto windows...Noticed my trip mileage had reset also.....Everything else was okay.... Edited March 7, 2020 by pronkie1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_75 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 Even though the tech hooked up to the ecu to hold the memory I stilled had to reset the auto windows...Noticed my trip mileage had reset also.....Everything else was okay.... You might want to consider doing the idle re-learn procedure. 1) Turn off the lights, A/C, stereo or any system in the car that draws extra current on top of the engine. 2) Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. 3) Reconnect the battery. 4) Before you start the car for the first time, turn the key to the ON position but do NOT turn the engine over. Wait 10-15 seconds so the electronic throttle body or IACV has time to go to the factory programmed home position. 5) After waiting, start the car and let it idle without any load, lights, A/C etc. 6) Every 20 seconds or so the idle will be adjusted up and down as the ECU tries to adjust it towards a stoichiometric fuel/air mix. 7) Leave the engine running for a full 10 mins but DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR during this time or turn on anything that will cause extra electrical current draw. 8)Turn off the engine, and leave the key in the OFF position for at least 20 sec. 9) As per step (4) turn the key back to the ON position for 10-15 sec without actually starting the engine. 10) Start the engine and leave to idle for a further 5 minutes without touching the accelerator and without turning on other systems in the car. 11) Turn off the engine again and wait at least 20 sec before restarting. 12) Take the car for a test drive as the ECU should now be fully retrained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 Thanks for following up. The Deka is a good battery. What BCI Group size did you choose? Since you're starting with a good battery, now would be a good time to buy an inexpensive (under $40) "smart" battery charger (a.k.a. battery tender, battery minder, etc.). Charging your battery overnight every month or two will help keep it in top condition. Avoid cheap "trickle chargers" that don't have a long-term "float" or "maintenance" mode, since they can overcharge the battery if left connected. The OEM battery is still going strong in my 14 FXT w/ ~77k miles, even though it just tested weak using an Ironton 125A load bank and indicated, “replace battery” using an inductive checker (Foxwell BT100 Pro) that out it at 68% SOH (state of health). The OE battery in my 15 Legacy (not sure if original, since I purchased the car used @ ~36k miles a couple of years ago) tester good with both testers. I use a dumb DC power supply to overnight-charge my starter batteries at 14.4 VDC every 1-3 weeks. As an aside, I even charge my kids’ Power Wheels’ 6VDC and 12VDC batteries with the power supply, since it’s more effective than the supplied chargers. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJS2023 Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 Looking to replace my Subaru Battery. On my third battery. Any recommendations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I had a similar issue with my Batt dying on a diff car when I worked less then a mile from work. It didn’t charge enough on the drive compared to the draw my system had. I would jump it all the time with a batt pack. I started taking it for an extended drive once a week to help keep the batt up no garage to plug it in overnight in my case. That long drive weekly solved my problem. ————————————————— HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims, More to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now