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What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3


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If you're lucky enough to have indoor parking that can help too.

 

It's worth noting that a heated garage is not good for a car as higher temperatures speed up oxidation (rust). I saw this effect on my last car (09 Altima) that started with no visible rust, and had significant rust in the passenger rear wheel well in under 3 years. I was parking in an underground garage geothermally heated so it was usually around 55 degrees.

 

Maybe it would've happened without the heated parking, but I was really upset so I would often check other Altimas from the same generation I saw in parking lots and never saw another one with rust.

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Just replaced my left side fog lamp housing. Hit an animal a few weeks ago and blew the light. At least that's what I thought until I crawled under to replace the bulb and found the housing busted and being held in with a single screw. Sometimes I wish they'd use a little more metal.
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I always hated my tan interior so I ordered replacements from my local dealer. Got online some blue accents, seat covers, leds, cup holder accents, front strut bar.... and when I was done my car wouldn’t start left my doors open too long and drained my old dying battery so after a jump got a red top. I plan on painting some of my interior parts I still have a few cans left of world rally blue that I used on parts for a show car I had a decade ago. Mods to come include a ram air intake, rear sway, rear strut def will need advice on those 2. Want to put a sub in as well gonna design a custom setup for it. Not sure how to post pics so I linked em from my google drive

 

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Edited by KJS2023
fixed links
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OK so today my ram air intake and rear strut bar came in. The intake wasn't for a 2016 but works fine except for the heat shield only can bolt into one spot. I have a fix in mind if i bend a part of it and get a bolt thats prob 6" or so I would be able to make it a little more stable. Way to late to go to home depot though... The intake itself is solid. The rear strut bar was really just a tedious install being in the trunk for soo long while I tried to keep my cuts as small as possible. The wires in the back go to a little powered woofer I created a wire harness for until I can get a real system in.

 

V9lgn5X.jpg

 

TEJEZO0.jpg

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OK so today my ram air intake and rear strut bar came in. The intake wasn't for a 2016 but works fine except for the heat shield only can bolt into one spot. I have a fix in mind if i bend a part of it and get a bolt thats prob 6" or so I would be able to make it a little more stable. Way to late to go to home depot though... The intake itself is solid. The rear strut bar was really just a tedious install being in the trunk for soo long while I tried to keep my cuts as small as possible. The wires in the back go to a little powered woofer I created a wire harness for until I can get a real system in.

 

 

 

V9lgn5X.jpg

 

 

 

TEJEZO0.jpg

Would a bought a Takada Intake So you have Fresh Intake Air.. Is that a Cusco Rear Bar?

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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I don’t have in the pic but I put the front air damn back in to direct more fresh air. I did think about the cold air but was afraid of sucking up any water with the roads around here. The rear strut is the Cusco got it on eBay for $180. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233188364851

 

All in all the front strut bar was an amazing addition for cornering. The rear I only lightly tested it’s raining but seems more stable. The intake is quiet @2000rpm and has a really nice tone wot. Next up for me now is a rear sway still need to read up in that I see people here do 19, 20, and 22mm sway bars... and the nameless axle back exhaust w muffler

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I don’t have in the pic but I put the front air damn back in to direct more fresh air. I did think about the cold air but was afraid of sucking up any water with the roads around here. The rear strut is the Cusco got it on eBay for $180. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233188364851

 

All in all the front strut bar was an amazing addition for cornering. The rear I only lightly tested it’s raining but seems more stable. The intake is quiet @2000rpm and has a really nice tone wot. Next up for me now is a rear sway still need to read up in that I see people here do 19, 20, and 22mm sway bars... and the nameless axle back exhaust w muffler

Nice.. With the size of our car I recommend the Adjustable 22mm Whiteline or Perrin with Kartboy Endlinks..

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Dropped in a Magnefine transmission filter, Improved Racing Flow Series Motorsport (FSM) thermostat that begins to open at 165F and a Hayden 678 Transmission cooler. Temps for my CVT were running at 205F for normal operation in 80F ambient temperature. I did four drain and fills of the CVT fluid with OEM fluid IAW the factory service manual. Two a few thousand miles ago and two after I installed, first, the cooler and then the thermostat. Temps are now right a 175F for when fully warmed up and may go up to 178F on a hill for 3 or 4 miles. I did the same thing to my wife's 2017 2.5 limited Forester. Her's wasn't running quite as hot but now both TR580's trans run at identical temperature's.

 

I live in a hot climate as it is, so even the coldest days, typically 65F a few days a year, my trans is sitting at 80F or higher in my garage. I bypassed the warmer for the CVT. To put it simply, it's customized for my climate.

 

And I don't need the, you don't tow or operate the CVT in severe service situation, fluids are lifetime speech. I know what Subaru and their manuals say.

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Edited by Matt_75
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Dropped in a Magnefine transmission filter, Improved Racing Flow Series Motorsport (FSM) thermostat that begins to open at 165F and a Hayden 678 Transmission cooler. Temps for my CVT were running at 205F for normal operation in 80F ambient temperature. I did four drain and fills of the CVT fluid with OEM fluid IAW the factory service manual. Two a few thousand miles ago and two after I installed, first, the cooler and then the thermostat. Temps are now right a 175F for when fully warmed up and may go up to 178F on a hill for 3 or 4 miles. I did the same thing to my wife's 2017 2.5 limited Forester. Her's wasn't running quite as hot but now both TR580's trans run at identical temperature's.

 

I live in a hot climate as it is, so even the coldest days, typically 65F a few days a year, my trans is sitting at 80F or higher in my garage. I bypassed the warmer for the CVT. To put it simply, it's customized for my climate.

 

And I don't need the, you don't tow or operate the CVT in severe service situation, fluids are lifetime speech. I know what Subaru and their manuals say.

 

1. What you did sounds great and those temperatures will probably result in the ability for extended CVTF change intervals. Great job!

 

I hope you open up that filter and share its contents with us one day.

 

How long do you plan on running that filter before changing it out?

 

2. No one in their right mind believes that ANY AT fluid is lifetime, unless you consider "lifetime" as one of the following, depending on who you ask:

 

a. The end of the warranty period

b. 100k miles

c. 150k miles

 

Again, great job!

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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Sounds like a good combination. How much did you pay for the ABE?

 

Paid $100 for the 2017 Wrx oem catback,but since Wrx doesn’t have reso on midpipe it was too loud and too much drone,so I decided to get the y pipe section from Wrx and had it welded onto the 2.5 mid pipe.

Here is the sound clip of you haven’t heard it

 

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