Cruise Control Not Setting

I have a 97 legacy outback with cruise control that just stopped working. It has an automatic transmission. Fuse is good. I replaced the vacuum hoses going to the cruise control. I also checked the brake switch and it appears to be intact. Cables do not feel loose to me. The light on the cruise on/off button is working but when I pull down on the cruise lever on the steering wheel it doesn't set. I remember hearing a faint click sound before when setting the cruise but I don't hear it since it stopped working. What should I check next? I couldn't find a cruise specific relay. Does anyone know where a relay would be located for cruise control. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey same except my car makes a weird click noise when I do it. And is your cruise button on the dash or on the button?

My cruise on/off switch is on the dash. The actual lever that sets the speed, cancels, and increases or decreases speed is on the steering column. Interestingly the little LED light on the on/off switch works but the cruise just doesn't.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have problems with the steering wheel mounted set switch. When it's cold I cannot hear the click and the cruise won't set. Once it warms up inside the car then it works again. I attribute this to something faulty in the switch so my guess is you have a bad switch on your steering column.

I will check into that. It's plenty warm out now and it did just fine through the winter but I haven't checked out that switch. I'll let you know if it works.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

when i got my car the cruise didn't work and it turned out i was missing the grommet on the clutch pedal that catches the trigger. the brake pedal also has the same grommet/trigger. so i imagine your auto's brake pedal uses the same set up and you may be missing the grommet.

The auto uses the brake light switch to determine if the pedal is pressed and deactivates the cruise. There isn't a grommet like the 5MT has with the clutch pedal. If there was an issue with the switch, his brake lights would be on.

Got a similar problem but with an added twist. The cruise control has stopped working - light in the dash switch comes on as before, but as others have said no "click" when setting the cruise.

In addition the switch on top of the steering column that controls the rear "fog" lights does not turn off the lights. The brighter lights stay on all the time draining the battery. Just discovered this today so will begin trouble shooting in a minute.

Any thoughts on what's going on? My first thought is something inside the steering column has come loose or busted.

Thanks - '99 Outback wagon with automatic & 2.5 engine.

More info:

All fuses good

Got switch from top of steering column out - much fun - jumped all possible combinations for the 3 terminals - tail/brake lights stay on. Noticed high mounted third brake light is also on. Is this correct for the column switch? Maybe my actual brake light switch is broken/staying on?

Planning on going to pick-a-part tomorrow morning to get a cruise control switch, but if car thinks brakes are depressed that could be the problem.

Any help much appreciated.

The auto uses the brake light switch to determine if the pedal is pressed and deactivates the cruise. There isn't a grommet like the 5MT has with the clutch pedal. If there was an issue with the switch, his brake lights would be on.

Actually the brake pedal does have a plastic grommet that contacts the plunger on the brake light switch. We found that out when the grommet disintegrated one night driving home in the '97 GT and the brake lights were still on after we got out of the car at home.

Fellas, I have a 1999 Outback with auto transmission. My dash cruise switch comes on when pushed, I hear a slight click when "set cruise" is pressed on the steering column but does not engage.

It sounds like those with manual transmissions find the plastic grommet on the clutch missing and replace that for an easy fix. I have the switch on my brake and the plastic piece is still in place and good.

Anyone have any luck with 2.5 auto transmissions?

My 2000 Outback cruise control (CC) was working intermittently and the switch arm seemed sticky. I turned the steering wheel so the CC arm was sticking straight up and sprayed a very little Walmart Supertech carb cleaner down into the hinge area of the arm. It must have dissolved the varnish or goo on the contacts because it worked perfectly immediately. Took about 2 minutes, hope this works for you.

Thanks Doug, mine turned out to be a vacuum line just like the fellas advised right off. I inspected all the lines that were easily visible and all were fine but later found on lower fitting wide open.

Now I am still dealing with two issues, ONE is the car shimmies from about 25 mph to 35 mph and then smooths out. Started doing it right after replacing CV joints and tires. Tire shop has checked balance and I paid them to align when they put the new tires on. They think it is either the transmission or the motor mounts.

Also, when it is hot, the car lugs out from a stop but has stopped now that it is winter. Someone mentioned checking the fuel trim which I feel could be the problems because it does produce some fuel fumes. The timing belt was changed with the CV joints and tires.

If it did not shimmy on the way to the CV and tire work and it did on the way back, then it is related to the work done. Get a second opinion from a different alignment shop.

Yes, I'm coming to that conclusion. Tires were a tire store, Les Schwab and the dealer did the CV joints. The dealer put the wrong ones in and then had to take them out to put the right ones in. That part is what concerns me.

A Subaru dealer service department put in the wrong shafts? I'd never go back there again, and I would tell everyone who might get taken by them. Of all the techs on earth, the dealer should have basic knowledge of their own vehicles.

It wasn't the Subaru Dealer, it was the used car dealer I bought it from, and in their defense I had been getting the wrong parts from AutoZone and Napa around that same time. It seemed nothing their computers suggested or called for was right, even on my Chevy truck. They do the labor for $50 an hour because I bought it from them. AutoZone delivered the wrong part to them. I may take it back to them and give them the shot at figuring it out even if they have to lie and say they fixed something else to get it solved.

Their Subaru tech was out, with a very sick baby.

OK, just a shop in general. They can be mislead by the parts guy just like civilians can. I thought you were saying a Subaru service center did it.

Keep your eye on them and see what you can get squared away.

If they/you drove it with the wrong shafts in it I would look at wheel bearings and suspension bushings and tie rod ends that could have been stressed to death by working in the wrong position and hope it didn't do anything bad to the differential bearings. Also, it could be as simple as incorrect alignment since they would have had several alignment related parts undone to get those shafts in.

OK, just a shop in general. They can be mislead by the parts guy just like civilians can. I thought you were saying a Subaru service center did it.

 

Keep your eye on them and see what you can get squared away.

 

If they/you drove it with the wrong shafts in it I would look at wheel bearings and suspension bushings and tie rod ends that could have been stressed to death by working in the wrong position and hope it didn't do anything bad to the differential bearings. Also, it could be as simple as incorrect alignment since they would have had several alignment related parts undone to get those shafts in.

Thank you, that is most useful information. The Tire Store did a full alignment the day after the work on the CV joints. That doesn't mean nothing really because this Less Schwab has done shoddy work on multiple visits which sucks.

I would try another alignment shop if you can. We have to vote out the bad shops by putting our dollars elsewhere.

100% this. This doesn't just apply to mechanics. If any business has wronged you, or done subpar work, why keep giving them your money? If it's because it's cheaper, then you are just paying them to continue ripping you, and others, off. Find someone that does good work and pay for that good work. It's not always convenient, or cheaper, but think about it in these terms; you've worked hard for your money, why give it to someone who isn't going to respect you, or your vehicle, enough to do the job right? Voting with your dollars in every aspect of your life is the way to ensure that we support those who work as hard as we do, and punish those who look to take advantage of others.

I'll get off my soapbox now.

All my life I kept having a tough time with repairs until I got where I learned enough and now I have done all my own repairs for 25 years except windshields and wheel alignments. Took a few tries, but I found a shop that I trust for all my alignments. I would try another alignment shop if you can. We have to vote out the bad shops by putting our dollars elsewhere.

Chaz, do you think the shimmy that is really only obvious from about 25-45 mph could still be an alignment issue? When Les Schwab (one of the largest tire and alignment stores in the west) did the alignment with their new tires they said it was only barely out one wheel if I remember correctly. I kind of felt like it should have been more out of alignment with the CV joint replacement especially since they put a wrong set in and then had to put the right set in.

100% this. This doesn't just apply to mechanics. If any business has wronged you, or done subpar work, why keep giving them your money? If it's because it's cheaper, then you are just paying them to continue ripping you, and others, off. Find someone that does good work and pay for that good work. It's not always convenient, or cheaper, but think about it in these terms; you've worked hard for your money, why give it to someone who isn't going to respect you, or your vehicle, enough to do the job right? Voting with your dollars in every aspect of your life is the way to ensure that we support those who work as hard as we do, and punish those who look to take advantage of others.

 

I'll get off my soapbox now.

That's my stance too, just figured I would try giving them the chance to fix their mistake to see if they would do it without charging me. I brought it to their attention immediately thinking they might have botched the job and they told me to bring it in so they could look at it but it would take a few weeks to get the appointment. Put it off trying to diagnose the issue myself so I could be informed more when I get someone to look at it.

If you guys think a shimmy from 25-45 mph could be a bad alignment I will take it to another alignment shot and give it a whirl.

It would have to be pretty far out to shimmy. It could also be something was damaged by the wrong axle pushing it out of place while it was loaded.

I had a project car with a terrible shimmy, but at a higher speed, that was caused by the damper in the front strut being completely empty of oil. I don't see how the work in question could damage that part of the strut in your case, just adding data.