The LGT Wagon Journey

Man our journeys couldn't be more alike! I built the same wagon and went way to deep just as you. The cost adds up that is for sure but it's so much fun to drive and practical to boot. Mine just recently got hit and it may be the end for her so yours just got more rare.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AR7n22u6CNtoj2Z7

 

That damage doesn't look that bad.

 

My 05 wagon was hit on the right side Jan 2018. Damage was $4300.00, his insurance totaled it. My body shop fixed it "under contract", I had to chip in $230.00 on top of that. But the car has a clean title.

 

Not all states do that, but my state allows it.

Got the funds together so its time to start moving

 

Went to the machine shop was curious why i didnt get a call back, my number was written down wrong.

Bad news : my passenger side head is not usable and will need to find a passenger side B25 head.

Good news: as soon as i get the head he’ll start working on it right away so i wont be waiting long.

 

Im shopping locally for a head and will start looking here soon if i dont find something local.

 

Now that the funds are together offers are popping up left & right.

Local dude that has a whole warehouse of lgt parts said he has a 150k mile longblock that wouldn’t start , says he didnt have time to test it cause a customer was waiting for the trans, thinks its either a plug/sensor, solenoid or MAF, hes selling it for 850$. Could use the heads and resell the rest but idk.

 

Im trying to not change the plan, i want to avoid additional headaches.

 

Trying to minimize risk and stay within budget.

 

 

Other issue im running into right now is the gaskets and such. The shortblock i’m going with is from a 2014 wrx, since my heads are different than what that shortblock came with i’m not sure which gasket kit to use. Part numbers are different, went to the dealership to compare and theres a good amount of the master gasket kit thats different. Biggest thing im worried about is which headgaskets work.

 

The timing belts also have different part numbers, Aisin kit is TKF005 for 2014WRX, and TKF004 for my 2005LGT. I know the waterpumps are different so going to go with TKF005, but i dont know if anything else is different (belt & components).

 

OCV part numbers are also different but i’m going to grab the right one for my vin since im using those heads. (10921AA020)

 

Oil pump numbers are different too but i believe the 11mm sti one is going to work (15010AA360)

 

Parts advisor told me to check back tomorrow because another parts guy will be better able to help since she thinks hes done a swap like this before.

 

Out of everything involved with this rebuild journey , the last thing i thought would make me feel i’m in over my head is getting the right parts...

 

 

___________________________

 

 

Need your help and input with figuring out the right parts to move forward.

 

1. Which Master Gasket kit to use, 10105AB230 for a 2014 WRX , or 10105AA720 for 2005 LGT.

- main concern is the headgaskets, and im not sure if going for the complete kit is the best approach or if i should break it down.

 

2. Will i be able to use the timing belt, timing components and waterpump kit for a 2014WRX (TKF005) or will there be issues with that?

- i know TKF005 will have the waterpump i need but worried about the belt & other components.

 

Please, kindly provide me with any insight/advice you have as i believe those are my only issues and then i should be on my way to get back on the road, other than the random part store runs while everything is being put back together.

 

 

Thank you guys for all your support.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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After doing a few more minutes of research i found a thread on nasioc that mentions using B25 headgaskets will work.

 

Apologies for not taking the time to do more research before coming up asking here.

 

Currently leaning towards the master gasket kit for the LGT (10105AA720).

 

After all that is confirmed, next i have to figure out the timing kit situation then i should be good to go.

 

_______

 

Thread used for gasket assumption

Is - https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2780882

Which takes information from another thread ...

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1667168

 

 

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Got the funds together so its time to start moving

 

Went to the machine shop was curious why i didnt get a call back, my number was written down wrong.

Bad news : my passenger side head is not usable and will need to find a passenger side B25 head.

Good news: as soon as i get the head he’ll start working on it right away so i wont be waiting long.

 

Im shopping locally for a head and will start looking here soon if i dont find something local.

 

Now that the funds are together offers are popping up left & right.

Local dude that has a whole warehouse of lgt parts said he has a 150k mile longblock that wouldn’t start , says he didnt have time to test it cause a customer was waiting for the trans, thinks its either a plug/sensor, solenoid or MAF, hes selling it for 850$. Could use the heads and resell the rest but idk.

 

Im trying to not change the plan, i want to avoid additional headaches.

 

Trying to minimize risk and stay within budget.

 

 

Other issue im running into right now is the gaskets and such. The shortblock i’m going with is from a 2014 wrx, since my heads are different than what that shortblock came with i’m not sure which gasket kit to use. Part numbers are different, went to the dealership to compare and theres a good amount of the master gasket kit thats different. Biggest thing im worried about is which headgaskets work.

 

The timing belts also have different part numbers, Aisin kit is TKF005 for 2014WRX, and TKF004 for my 2005LGT. I know the waterpumps are different so going to go with TKF005, but i dont know if anything else is different (belt & components).

 

OCV part numbers are also different but i’m going to grab the right one for my vin since im using those heads. (10921AA020)

 

Oil pump numbers are different too but i believe the 11mm sti one is going to work (15010AA360)

 

Parts advisor told me to check back tomorrow because another parts guy will be better able to help since she thinks hes done a swap like this before.

 

Out of everything involved with this rebuild journey , the last thing i thought would make me feel i’m in over my head is getting the right parts...

 

 

___________________________

 

 

Need your help and input with figuring out the right parts to move forward.

 

1. Which Master Gasket kit to use, 10105AB230 for a 2014 WRX , or 10105AA720 for 2005 LGT.

- main concern is the headgaskets, and im not sure if going for the complete kit is the best approach or if i should break it down.

 

2. Will i be able to use the timing belt, timing components and waterpump kit for a 2014WRX (TKF005) or will there be issues with that?

- i know TKF005 will have the waterpump i need but worried about the belt & other components.

 

Please, kindly provide me with any insight/advice you have as i believe those are my only issues and then i should be on my way to get back on the road, other than the random part store runs while everything is being put back together.

 

 

Thank you guys for all your support.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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After doing a few more minutes of research i found a thread on nasioc that mentions using B25 headgaskets will work.

 

Apologies for not taking the time to do more research before coming up asking here.

 

Currently leaning towards the master gasket kit for the LGT (10105AA720).

 

After all that is confirmed, next i have to figure out the timing kit situation then i should be good to go.

 

_______

 

Thread used for gasket assumption

Is - https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2780882

Which takes information from another thread ...

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1667168

 

 

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It all depends on the route you take for the timing belt kit.

 

TKF004 uses a waterpump with three hose fittings, one of which is used for the oil cooler.

 

TKF005 uses a waterpump with two hose fittings and none for an oil cooler.

 

So, if you plan on using the factory oil cooler, then get TKF004. If you plan on deleting the cooler, get TKF005. If youbdo delete your oil cooler, you'll also have to buy a different (shorter) oil filter stud.

It all depends on the route you take for the timing belt kit.

 

TKF004 uses a waterpump with three hose fittings, one of which is used for the oil cooler.

 

TKF005 uses a waterpump with two hose fittings and none for an oil cooler.

 

So, if you plan on using the factory oil cooler, then get TKF004. If you plan on deleting the cooler, get TKF005. If youbdo delete your oil cooler, you'll also have to buy a different (shorter) oil filter stud.

 

 

other than the difference in waterpump they are identical kits?

 

yes i plan on deleting the oil cooler, or in other words i don't plan on installing one, the 2014 wrx short block doesnt come with an oil cooler, so i'll be keeping it that way. oil filter stud shouldn't be different if the shortblock im using never came with an oil cooler correct?

other than the difference in waterpump they are identical kits?

 

 

 

yes i plan on deleting the oil cooler, or in other words i don't plan on installing one, the 2014 wrx short block doesnt come with an oil cooler, so i'll be keeping it that way. oil filter stud shouldn't be different if the shortblock im using never came with an oil cooler correct?

They are identical other than WP, yes.

 

If your new SB comes with the stud installed, you'll be fine.

They are identical other than WP, yes.

 

If your new SB comes with the stud installed, you'll be fine.

 

 

sounds good, thank you for confirming that and helping out.

 

 

i got in touch with the parts specialist today, to see if i should grab the whole kit or split it up, he said its best to compare both kits and see which parts you want off each kit, and buy them individually because if you need to return them or exchange them, we wont be able to return a single item if you bought a whole kit.

 

friend in MN has heads for a really good price, just need to confirm they are B25.

I went with the 10105AA720 kit, i saw Max’s comment on the Master Kit thread saying “If you ordered the gasket kit for your year engine, the HG's should be correct. I never questioned mine.” And honestly thats make more and more sense with the whole kit, so i’ll be going with that kit and hoping everything works out.

 

I also finished ordering all the parts needed. Will be posting a list of parts i ended up with later. Parts will be coming in through next week, and hopefully by the weekend everything will be ready to go in.

 

 

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I keep procrastinating saying i’ll post an update and then it never happens, and the more i procrastinate the larger the update the harder it gets to do it haha.

 

Anyway, car is up and running, put about 1300 miles on the engine so far.

 

To start from where i left off roughly.

 

For the oil cooler or oil cooler delete the block didnt come with a stud so i had to use one from my friends NA 2.5. Also took a plug from him to complete the oil cooler delete.

 

 

Thats how the block looked like when i got it. Added the stud & plug and called it for that part.

 

For the waterpump i want with the TFK005 and for the gasket kit i went with AA720 , both worked out great

 

 

 

 

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This is the head i got from a mutual friend in Mn

 

 

 

The machine shop was able to use that head and get my heads done, below is pictures of the heads, the heads cost me 420$ at the machine shop, and i believe 150$ for the head from a mutual friend.

 

 

 

 

 

And ofcourse... the really important picture... the reason for my 4,000 dollar endeavor

 

 

 

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Other than the passenger side head, i also grabbed a 2005 STI FPR, oil pan, oil baffle, dipstick , and dipstick tube and timing belt guides from said Mutual friend....

 

 

Put in the rear main seal, wasnt using the special tool, and put the first one in crocked , so i had to go to the dealership and buy another one...

 

 

Put the ARP head studs in.

The cam seals were kinda tricky for me since i wasnt sure how far in they should go, but exchange photos with my friend and some reason on this forum showed me where i want to be between flush and bottomed out.

 

Ran into a problem that i prefer to not mention... but for the life of me i couldnt figure out why my intake cam gear on the driver side did not go on and kept bottom out... turn out the machine shop used passenger side cams for both heads...

 

Felt kind of weird using the TiC Fu Cam bolts and paying 70ish dollar for them(including shipping) when mine were just fine, but i prefer to listen to more experienced rebuilders advise so i dont struggle later lol.

 

 

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Then was the fun time to instal the aftermarket goodies, one this i hated and had to resell was the IAG turbo oil feed line and avcs lines, disliked their fitment..

 

The cobb fuel rails rubbed on the OCV brackets, but sent it anyway.

 

Had a fuel leak at cylinder 4 and had to order the oring kit that Import Image racing sells by DW.

 

 

 

Picked this 3D printed alignment tool from amazon

 

 

Did TGV delete, i wouldn’t do them again tho, next time i would just buy tgv deletes, with a dremel these were way more work than i thought.

 

 

 

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I got tons of pics, but no point in posting all now , would of been nicer if i was updating like i used to...

 

Anyway, after putting engine in ran into a crankshaft positioning CEL, turns out my sprocket was missing 2 teeth... and messed up part is i pictured the sprocket and it showed missing teeth but i didnt see it before..

 

 

Had to file down the injectors a bit to make them fit work

 

 

Used a thread chaser on the 02 sensor threads because it was siezed AF pulling it out... this went wrong so had to replace with a 2017 sti manifold/headers

 

 

 

 

 

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Intercooler decided to split and had to replace it.

 

Current status :

I believe i have an oil leak on the banjo bolts by the turbo because i reused the copper washers.

 

Im more or less certain i have a boost leak or two that i need to smoke test again.

 

The axles getting rebuilt didnt fix the popping when turning... friend believes its the diff binding, the trans has gotten noisy... and the popping gets louder when the car has been driven for a while, but nothing when its first start of the day.

 

I think my trans is going out, maybe spend 500$ on a 5spd , or 3k for a 6spd..

 

But currently it is also posted for sale for 7k on facebook because i lost my income and need something that wont break taking me back and forth to school, but idk i might kept it might not.

 

I live in milwaukee, took it to Madison(Fl4tFest), devils lake, Starved rock, and drove around town. 1300 miles on engine so far, and the beginning of august, like august8th maybe.

 

 

Shes thicc too

 

 

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Those tic bolts are the best thing ever made.

back again

 

so I didn't sell it, and kept dailying it and putting miles on it. so far have roughly 5000miles since rebuild. car has been good to for the most part.

 

replacing the axle made the popping sound go away but there was a feeling of that sound still there, so the assumption was a bad wheel bearings.. 2 days later the popping came back so not entirely sure, need to replace the axle again, wheel bearing, and see what happens next.

 

soooo... the thing that brings me back as I coordinating getting my tools back to my garage.. the LGT wagon is down again.

 

Past month or so it takes longer to start in the mornings, so i had the battery alternator and starter tested at advanced auto the night before this happened.

 

What happened was, i started it in the morning, it idled for a minute or less, then shut off , it clunked before, while or after shutting off , not 100% sure. Then wont start again. I checked the oil right away since I haven't checked it last gas filled up. it was low low. but still some on the dipstick, the sideways grade and the cold morning might have been a culprit to oil starvation if it was oil starvation.

 

so after it not starting, up again. i did the follow

Replaced alternator.

Tested old one to see if new one was bad too.

Jump the battery cause it lost juice after so many tries.

Unplug maf and tried to start

Restarted ecu and unplugged maf tried to start

check fuses

 

Noticed the return line was getting pushed out on the FPR but not getting pushed off, crimped the clamp harder. Disconnected fuel line post FPR to see fuel /fuel pressure, friend said its good (i was inside turning it)

 

Pulled one side of the timing cover and it looked fine, didnt do other side yet.

 

Tested spark by pulling cylinder 3 coil and putting a sparkplug on it that i had laying around and it sparks,

 

Used starter fluid to see if anything changes.

 

tried a friends Crank position sensor it had no effect.

 

one friend told me to cut open the oil filter, so i did and will post a video of it soon. there was a lot of shavings but i did use a saw to cut the filter so... and like my friend said, if its a rod or something you'd hear it knocking and all. he was like " i am sure you heard enough videos on the Facebook group of peoples motors knocking"

 

friend also asked if the CEL is on before cranking or not to confirm theres a connection to the ecu, and yes its all good.

_____

 

To do list.

 

-Get tools to the garage.

-Put an oil filter back on and top off any drained oil.

- check both sides of timing belt

- check wiring harness if loose or not

- check injector clips if connected properly or not

- check fuel injectors signal

- check fuel pressure with Tool from shane

- check plugs & do a compression/leakdown test

 

 

Was told unless i jumped timing or broke a cam or valve, its most likely an electrical issue in some way.

 

And

 

 

 

 

 

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From my experience, after I do a ton of digging around in the engine bay I've learned to expect odd electrical issues afterwards. It's a royal pain diagnosing that crap, but for me it's usually been something as simple as a loose ground, unseated connector, or a loose wire.

From my experience, after I do a ton of digging around in the engine bay I've learned to expect odd electrical issues afterwards. It's a royal pain diagnosing that crap, but for me it's usually been something as simple as a loose ground, unseated connector, or a loose wire.

 

 

 

I am hoping and leaning towards that, considering i have top feeds and had to slightly modify the injector connector to slide in, i think one may have back out. That is where i plan on starting my list tonight.

 

 

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So work on the car a bit tonight.

Timing seems off by a tooth, but like my friend said, timing can be tricky sometimes since they are always ever so slightly off. But i think this looks to be far enough off to say its a tooth off.

 

 

 

After being told this would not be enough to not allow the car to start, i proceeded to check injector signal. Checked resistance for all injectors and all was good. Checked power to connectors and all got power. Checked pulse/signal as a friend tried to crank the car. Cylinder 1 & 3 got consistent pulses. Cylinder 2 got no pulse, cylinder 4 got 1 pulse then no pulses after that.

 

So it seems like its a wiring issue. Tests resistance between injector & wiring harness connector and its good. Wasn’t able to check between connector and ecu because my multimeter wire is too short for that.

 

I read on forums somewhere that the ECU could turn off injector 1 putting the car in limp mood when the timing is off, or crank or cam position sensors are bad. But i’m assuming the issue is in injector 2 because it gets no pulse. Used a test light for to find said pulse.

 

So i am not sure if i should take these results as a confirmation of a wiring issue and pull up wiring diagrams and test until i find the connection problem. Or if it could be, or it is something else and im going down the wrong rabbit hole.

 

 

 

 

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Pic 3 makes me think you're off a tooth, but that's only if all of the other belt marks were lined up at the same time. In pic 1 is there a white line on the belt that I can't see?

 

Somewhere here on the forum there's info about how many belt teeth should be between each mark. That would take a while but would certainly tell you if your timing is correct or not.

 

I've never heard about the ECU shutting off an injector for limp mode. That would make sense though if it's trying to save itself from bad timing.

You're off by a tooth on the drivers exhaust cam, but as your friend mentions it si not enough to keep the engine from running. I installed my timing belt incorrectly the same way on my 5th Gen and the engine worked. It idled a little rough and would set a code after 10-15 minutes, but didn't have any issues starting.

Pic 3 makes me think you're off a tooth, but that's only if all of the other belt marks were lined up at the same time. In pic 1 is there a white line on the belt that I can't see?

 

Somewhere here on the forum there's info about how many belt teeth should be between each mark. That would take a while but would certainly tell you if your timing is correct or not.

 

I've never heard about the ECU shutting off an injector for limp mode. That would make sense though if it's trying to save itself from bad timing.

 

 

 

No there isn’t, timing was done 5k miles ago and i made sure to count the teeth multiple times before releasing the tensioner and multiple times after that. I will go ahead and remove the crank pulley and center cover and count the teeth to make sure. I remember the page from the service manual when i set timing.

 

 

 

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You're off by a tooth on the drivers exhaust cam, but as your friend mentions it si not enough to keep the engine from running. I installed my timing belt incorrectly the same way on my 5th Gen and the engine worked. It idled a little rough and would set a code after 10-15 minutes, but didn't have any issues starting.

 

 

 

Exactly, and before this it never had an issue, no codes no rough idle, so it could have jumped timing when it stalled out, even though there multiple belt guides to prevent it. It should start regardless, thats what making me think its not cause of no start.

 

 

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IMO if it were my car, I'd put the exhaust timing gear back in time.

 

DIY timing belt thread,

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html

 

Here's my thread

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193.html?t=94193

 

If you need I can find the thumb drive i have those pictures on and repost them.