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Cool Article about the 05 SCCA wagons floating around still.. :)


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"Pulled the wing. It's in the wrong location (not putting weight on wheels) and can't adjust it easily. Look for it in the classified section. :-)"

 

What do you mean by not putting weight on the wheels? Please explain further.

 

I met the head of SKF Racing at PRI. He said he could build better race grade bearings for the smaller hubs, but obviously, there has to be a market for them. If you want one-offs that's going to blow your budget for the season.....

Edited by Sgt.Gator

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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Working on numbers for the cost of a full season. Looking for a title sponsorship and realized I have no idea what I need/want nor what I can provide in return.

 

The days of just driving are over. :-)

 

Haha yeah this is why when I tell people I do track days and they say something about racing I correct them and tell them I can't afford to race.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Ideally wing mounts are on the frame. Currently, it's on the roof with a foam roll to keep from denting the roof. Or it was. The adjustment in the current wing is only 2 positions, maybe 3. Also, adding aero upgrades before sorting the suspension is backwards. Yes,I get that GTA cars do both at the same time, however, most of those aero mods are not legal for my classes.

 

I have plans for aero, however, not soon. I'll leave the air dam/splitter for the time being, assuming it helps exiting turns. If not, it goes too.

 

Kip and I swapped the front suspension out last night for spec b arms with a Whiteline upgrade (all the race bits) and added the Cusco braces. Based on my experience with the black wagon, this will help alot. See pic

 

Upgrading to the S402 wagon suspension next week, along with a full Whiteline parts replacement and Cusco braces and custom sway bar mounts. This will add lots of adjustability and stiffer bushings.

 

Pulling the 14 year fire bottle is going slow. Haven't found the safety on the bottle...so pulling the trigger is on hold. Literally. Need to test the lines for flow to be sure nothing got crushed.

 

Pulling the underbody oil cooler and going to use just the front mounted cooler.

 

Ordering the heat wrap for the up pipe today. Going to wrap the power steering lines, too. Mostly to keep the heat off. If I can figure out a mounting option, I'll put a reflective panel on the head by the up pipe.

 

:needpics:

New phone only makes massive pics that don't upload.

BlueGoldSilver-1.thumb.jpg.06fedfaf8087818cd4f647121278a5b9.jpg

Edited by boxkita
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Correct. I have a '05 with the Moroso pick up with no issues.

 

It also had a bent stud on the transmission mounting. :-) Spent a few hours last night trying to put the 6mt on the "new" motor.

 

Sent the S402 arms out to have the OEM bushings removed. Made another note to get bushing press bits. Only have sockets up to 32mm.

 

Car wasn't done for Saturday, so took the Sonic to Oregon Raceway Park. It snowed the last hour of the trip, so the snow tires turned out to be a wise choice. Kept track speeds at 60 or less, which frustrated everyone. Finally got to try the CCW direction. Brought Brian Bogdon along as a instructor to get the best line (he's a fellow racer in conference who's not concerned with a bit of snow). We had a good time. Looking forward to bringing the wagon out for a couple days.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped rear subframe last night. Need to cut off the very damaged swaybar mountings. Both are heavily reinforced as well being bent forward quite a bit. Given some of the other things we came across and reading race reports this looks like accident damage (not an expert). The subframe has extra wrinkles and mounting tweaks, too. Debating replacing it and starting new. Also debating dropping it off at tssfab to convert to a cromoly tube unit (like their STI parts). V2.0

 

Differential came out ok. Axles look ok. The cooling connections are blocked off. Sgt.Gator's notes from earlier mentioned issues getting the system to work correctly. Need to dig into that further.

 

The S402 wagon (ultimate unicorn) trailing arms have Whiteline bushings installed. The wheel bearings still rotate freely, so going to reuse.

 

The Cusco braces I got from hkc-speed.com are being fitted so everything bolts up right.

 

Contacted the elusive boxman to get his custom sway bar reinforcement solution. MrTris has the same system, so looking get a look-see after long term usage. This could become my first welding project to see actual use...no stress here.

 

In other news, the need for a passenger seat is null as I used the Sonic for instructor days. I wish I'd mounted a camera facing the passenger seat. The video of various attempting to be unaffected ppl wildly struggling to stay upright and in the seat would have been funny. 60mph on snow tires on a tall short car is really rough. However, having a running car (last year's car blew a head gasket before I even signed the contract) meant I could show my stellar driving skills. Passed the AudiNW instructor school and have been added to instructor roster. :-)

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Adding Cusco pics from Underdog. I have a triangle shaped bar but no idea where it goes...

 

I have a triangle piece that I can't figure out where it goes. It looks like it mounts to frame rails in front.

 

While searching, I found this:. https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-power-brace-front-member-subaru-legacy-bh5-bp5-bl5.html

Which mounts to the front of the car to stabilize the radiator support. Have to contact Randy about and other braces.

 

Although cutting the current damaged section out and putting a section with welded in reinforcement would be a better solution. The off track excursion from overheated brakes at ORP a few years radically modified the radiator support structure. Body repair manual indicates this is relatively easy repair (trained professionals only).

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Man you are loading up the work project on this car. It sounds like you might as well strip the car completely down and seam stitch it!

 

The rear diff pump and cooler lines were removed because the R180 never got hot enough to need the pump and fan to come on. The original R160 I'm sure needed it, and in fact failed at my first race.

 

If you are going to be doing 2+ Hour enduros you might re-install a cooler system, but for the 30 minute sprint races and even 1 hour enduros it's not needed (IMHO).

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 1 month later...

In the IRDC novice program, we tell every novice, repeatedly, buy instead of build. Looking back, I can whole-heartedly agree with this advice.

 

Kip and I were putting the new Whiteline diff bushings in the rear subframe last night. Getting them out was a cake...one whack of the hammer and they fell out. Putting them in is a chore. The metal bushing casing is approximately .75mm bigger than the ones that fell out.

 

You know what happens when you use a dead-blow hammer on a fender washer on a polyurethane bushing that has a metal housing that's going in a slightly smaller hole? Well, not what you think. I need to find a replacement fender washer as it looks like a bowl now.

 

I upgraded my wife's jewelry's sonic cleaner to a larger HF model, which has a heater. Added a large pour of dawn dishwasher soap. Turned on the heat. Set the timer for 10 minutes. Put in batches of nuts & bolts until clean. A bit of brushing after each cycle and all the hardware is shiny again. I've been making a "willitfit.com" catalog for everything in the garage. Suspension bits, bolts, nuts, engine parts, etc. The front diff support is shiny clean on both ends and caked dirt & oil in the middle. :-)

 

Came up with a new design for the lighting after reading a book on building with metal studs. Turns out the light bar is really solid construction, just not meant to lie on its side. Picking up some more studs & track today to make it sit vertically. Picked up a 12 plug powerstrip and 15 foot extension cord. Still have to figure out how to get the extension cord plugged into the ceiling outlet 20 feet up. Should be able to hang all 20 LED lights on the new structure. Brings the total light output in the garage to ~50,000 lumens...most of it in a 16x27 foot space. I'll add a tanning bulb to hide my garage tan.

 

On the plus side, Kip's wagon is really making progress. He's got a Ridge track day coming up. I'm heading out to watch a wagon run at the Ridge for the first time since 2015 (last time the @RaceWagon made an appearance).

 

Created a page on facebook.com for this wagon - @RaceWagon .Check it out. Someday, I'll get an actual picture of the wagon outside the garage. Until then, imagine you see something.

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Will you and Kip be at Pacific this weekend?

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I ll probably be there Sunday

 

We need turn workers for Sunday. No experience required!

My wife volunteered to work with a veteran corner worker today because otherwise we weren't going racing. The SCCA Majors are in Portland this weekend and the usual volunteers are all down there. If you want to see racing as close as possible, come on out to Pacific Raceways Sunday morning, the workers meeting is 8AM. Thanks!

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 3 weeks later...
Motul 300 for difs and trans. I have the whole wagon on Motul now. 5W-40 in the motor, 300lsd 75w-90 in the rear dif, 300 75w-90 in the six speed, and rbf600 in the Brembos. Pretty pleased with it so far.
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Transmission and rear diff are back in the car. Researching appropriate fluids to put in them.

That's good news, it sounds like you are getting close to back on track!

 

I always ran and still run Mobil 1 Syn Gear Lube LS 75W-90. It's occasionally on sale at Autozone as a 2 for 1, when I stock up. You can also buy it as 75W-140 which might be a good idea because the race wagon always runs hot on that six speed, even with the cooler. I think it's because that version of the six speed has a viscous center diff which generates a lot of heat.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not much news. Working too much to get to the shop.

 

Kip took a week off to work on his wagon. One track day at the Ridge = 1 week working on his wagon. That's about what I remember from my days at the Ridge. He's signed up for Saturday, so I'll be heading out for a morning of sight-seeing. He's added brake ducts, new hubs, new clutch, Porterfield brake pads & disks, PF01 wheels, Toyo RR tires, Whiteline KTA124 rear kit, etc. Pretty much duplicated my street car, except he has brake ducts and a cage.

 

I'm curious to see if his hub failure rate matches mine.

 

Stuff I've done:

Finally sent an email to SKF to ask about custom hubs for the LGT.

Contacted madrig about a full set of fender flares. It adds about 1 inch of width. Which is about what I need to cover 275's in the rear.

The blue wagon should be leaving the shop this month, I hope, as the buyer has room in his shop now.

Bought Infamous's collection of LGT porn. That I don't read Japanese is not really a problem. google translate works on pictures, right?

ClubLegacy48.thumb.jpg.62d8ecdeec0d0db34ffd33073079f1bd.jpg

Edited by boxkita
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If your going to be down at the Ridge tomorrow for the Turn 2 day I might actually bring the wagon down for the WCSS. I've been pretty up in the air on going. Unfortunately the wagon is too pretty right now for the track. Would have to put the USDM bumper back on for some lapping. Track days beat the hell out of these cars.
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  • 1 month later...

At long last, I've admitted I might need help getting the wagon on track....

 

Dropping off a motor at all wheel drive's new performance shop to have the hg and tb replacement done. They use C&D for machine work, so I'm comfortable that the heads will be ok if needed. Debating dropping off both motors, so the replacement is "equal".

 

Looking for a KillerB oil pan to replace the dry sump system, which is removed already. Sitting in a box until I figure out what's needed to make it work. Reservoir was in the passenger seat and that doesn't work.

 

Talking to tuning shops that do accessport and hopefully race motors. Pretty small pond, tho.

 

Shopping tires. Tire rack has a close out on SuperSports. Simplytire is having a 10% off sale today, too. My buddy's tire machine is "broken" again, so looking for a cheap deal to remove old race tires from the rims.

 

Assuming everything works, I'll be at ORP for the Lucky Dog race on September 15-16. If you are interested, drop me a line. Taking a cue from Sgt.Gator's playbook, I'm going out without testing. I'm sure it'll be ok....

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