Guess this sound! Trans/diff? Something else?

'05 Legacy 2.5i 4EAT.

 

Here's my video:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1smdJ1KqBBPQMvTogR2uJP_c9HYQEpRwD/view?usp=sharing

 

Ok so for the past few weeks I've been hearing this sound on and off. It's like a whistling/squealing noise but sometimes presents as a light scraping sound. Sometimes it does both.

 

Conditions:

- Seems to be temp related. Happens mostly in colder weather although it's hard to tell because it's just been plain damn cold out every day here.

 

- Usually goes away after exceeding 30 or so mph.

 

- Usually goes away after the first few miles once things get heated up, although it didn't do that today. Today it appeared after about 20 minutes of highway driving.

 

- Comes and goes. Sometimes I wont hear it for days.

 

- Speed dependent only. Gear doesn't matter, coasting in neutral doesn't change things, AWD or FWD does the same thing. Throttle position makes no difference.

 

- Turning/braking doesn't seem to change anything.

 

- Sounds like it's coming from the front right of the car although sometimes it feels like the center front. Sometimes I think I hear two different, distinct noises on both the left and right.

 

Now. I've also had what I believe to be a pinion bearing that sings a bit at around 50mph for months. I don't believe this is related. That sound hasn't changed at all. I'm also not 100% sure it's the pinion bearing. Diff oil looked good last I changed it although I might drain it again to see if there's anything of concern going on in it.

 

I ran the car on jackstands and it sounds like it's coming from the right side. I was working by myself so it was hard to get the wheels spinning at speed and listen at the same time. I also had to hold the left side wheel from turning because the diff was favoring that side. It sounded like the scraping/hissing was getting louder as the right side wheel sped up but I was on the left side of the car. This test was kind of inconclusive so I might have to try again with someone else to help me and perhaps crawl underneath.

My vote is on a bad wheel bearing - mine made similar sounds when they were going. Does the sound change at all going around turns?

Someone else on the Outback forums also suggested a wheel bearing. It actually makes sense, I've just never heard a wheel bearing make a sound like that in my life. No changes around turns. It sounds like the bearing might be rusted/dry. If it is the wheel bearing that's good news. I definitely wasn't looking forward to replacing the transmission even though they're rather cheap used.

If you want to test if the wheel bearing is bad, jack the up the car and make sure no weight is on the suspension. Preferable to do this on a lift.

 

Grab the wheel with one hand and the other on the spring (assuming you have a strut and spring suspension, IDK if this works with coilovers) and spin the wheel as hard as you can. Not only does this test your tie rods, but if you feel vibration in your spring then your wheel bearing is likely bad. You shouldn't feel much, if anything, in the spring with no weight on the suspension.

I went ahead and ordered a new Timken bearing since I'm a bit short on time and only have one day off in which I can address this. Hopefully that's the problem lol.

I remember being mortified my transmission/center diff was going as well while hearing that grinding noise. The sound appeared to be coming from under the center console. Turned out to be the right front bearing. Very hard to isolate where a sound is coming from within the cabin. Pleides suggestion is exactly how I figured out which bearing was bad. Mine also had a little bit of play but I think that is rare with our hub+bearing assemblies.

 

Hopefully that solves it! Keep us updated

Edited January 22, 2020 by amm203

I went ahead and ordered a new Timken bearing since I'm a bit short on time and only have one day off in which I can address this. Hopefully that's the problem lol.

 

All four wheels have had bad bearings in my 210K miles according to CarFax, so don't be surprised if more than one of yours is bad! My left front went and I could feel it in the steering wheel when changing lanes on the freeway. Two of mine failed just out of warranty back in 2007.

I remember being mortified my transmission/center diff was going as well while hearing that grinding noise. The sound appeared to be coming from under the center console.

 

 

Yes that's what was messing me up. When it's making the scraping sound it's clearly from the right side, but the whistling/squealing noise sounds like just under the console. Not sure how close it is to outright failing but I'm thinking of parking the car until Sunday when I can replace it. It sounds like it's getting worse.

So I changed the r/f wheel bearing. Fortunately the replacement was drama free. Everything came apart and went back together easily. Oh and I also discovered that my r/s outer CV boot is just starting to tear, and the axle seal on that side is also starting to leak. Will the fun ever end?

 

Anyway, more importantly. That wasn't the problem.

 

Still does the same thing. This is why I'm not a fan of the shotgun approach to automotive diagnostics. I'm not totally mad since the old bearing did feel a little notchy so it was probably going to need it eventually anyway.

 

I'm starting to suspect the driveshaft center-bearing for the simple reason that it definitely sounds like a bearing that's failing, sounds external, and doesn't change during turns/ braking. I'm going to run the car on jackstands and crawl underneath this weekend and hopefully I'll be able to pinpoint where this is coming from.

Well that sucks. At this point I would just take it to a reputable Subie shop to pinpoint the problem if you want to stop throwing money at it.

I think our driveshafts are starting to show their age. Check out my thread where mine was making a terrible noise only in reverse. Took it to the shop and they diagnosed bad u joint bearings. Sure enough, they were toast....

Easy to check

Drop the heat shield with 4 bolts.

The diff to driveshaft connection is another 4, and the center bearing has 2 bolts. It should slide out easy and then you can wiggle around to check for roughness/play

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D281028&share_tid=281028&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

 

 

 

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I'm going to inspect the driveshaft when I have time. Interestingly enough I didn't think to try and see if it makes the sound in reverse.

 

Last time I was under there it looked like the exhaust had to come out to even get the heat shield off. Not true?

I'm guessing my non-turbo '09 is probably similar to your '05, you should probably be able to sneak the heatshield around the exhaust without unbolting the exhaust. I think when I did it on my car, I think I removed and installed it towards the passenger side.

 

Edit: This is for the heatshield that sits towards the front of the car, under the shifter.

Yeah you won't necessarily take the heat shield off. It will have the O2 sensor wire running through a cut out which prevents it from coming completely off. The metal is super thin and you can just swing it around until it's out of the way.

 

I found it easier to work on with the front tires on ramps and the rear jacked up. You'll need to have the ability to rotate rears to get to all the diff bolts. Make a mark where the diff and propshaft join so you know the proper orientation when putting back on. Have the e brake pulled when breaking the bolts loose.

I think those are all the tips I have for ya....good luck!

 

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Figured it out. It’s the driveshaft carrier bearing.

 

I put the car on jackstands and ran it with the wheels off the ground. Noticed the sound doesn’t occur in FWD with the parking brake on. Crawled underneath with it running and sure enough that’s exactly where the sound was coming from. I took a nice video for you guys too!

 

Anyway just to further verify I hosed it down with PBlaster and it STFU.

 

So as far as replacement options:

• Amazon has a Dorman driveshaft with grease fittings on the u joints for $348 shipped prime.
  
• Used driveshaft that might have the same issue in the future for $90 - $150.
  
• Send it off to a driveshaft shop to be rebuilt which might take days and end up costing the same as the Dorman one at the end of the day.
  

 

I’m thinking the Dorman shaft might be the way to go here unless any of you have some horror stories you’d like to share. I'm a little confused about fitment. Car-part.com shows different driveshafts for cars produced before 4/2005 and after 5/2005. My car was made in '04. However Subaru only shows a difference with a spring washer.

 

The driveshaft part # supercedes to 27111AG05A which fits all nonturbo 4EAT Legacies from 05-09 and also the Spec B oddly enough. I'm assuming there really is no difference between the year split and that any of them should work? A local salvage yard has a 53k mile one from an '07 Legacy for only $96. That's cheap enough for me to consider even though I'd rather go for a new one so I don't have to deal with it again.

 

 

I'm guessing my non-turbo '09 is probably similar to your '05, you should probably be able to sneak the heatshield around the exhaust without unbolting the exhaust. I think when I did it on my car, I think I removed and installed it towards the passenger side.

 

Should be the same back there. I can see how it might be possible but i think I might drop the exhaust anyway so I can remove the stupid trailer hitch the PO put on that scrapes on everything. You cant get to the bolts without getting the mufflers out of the way.

Cool! Glad you got it figured out. That bearing was making an awful racket. Good luck sourcing a better one.

 

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Nice! Curious how well an aftermarket DS will work for you. This sounds like it may be a necessary replacement for most of us at some point.

All fixed! I ended up going with the Dorman driveshaft. It fit like a glove. I did need to drop the rear section of the exhaust though, there simply was no way to get the driveshaft out otherwise. That bearing was completely shot and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer.