What did you do to your Outback today? V3

After having a new battery fitted, drivers window wont reset, stays half way up how to reset the window

 

 

In theory those are unrelated just bad coincidence. AFAIK there is no reset to the window. Assuming the rest of the windows work from the same switch, my guess would be your window regulator died.

 

 

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Just bought a Koyorad hyper V radiator. Hopefully, it will help with my coolant temp when it's hot out here.

Subframe spacer removal with a few upgrades.

New driveshaft; STI short shift linkage; COBB adjustable short shifter; front and rear COBB shifter bushings; Cusco version 2 lower arm bar; grimmspeed up pipe; turbosmart comp gate 40 EWG; whiteline trans brace bushings; STI steering linkage.

Car handles night and day different. I have a few key pieces leftover if anyone is looking to tackle this job HMU.

 

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Anyone in Utah with a 5mt looking for a driveshaft? I was amazed at the condition when I removed mine yesterday for the subframe spacer removal. All joints are tight, no play anywhere

 

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Anyone in Utah with a 5mt looking for a driveshaft? I was amazed at the condition when I removed mine yesterday for the subframe spacer removal. All joints are tight, no play anywhere

 

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Damn. Not in utah anymore. Mine doesn't seem to have much play but is showing some weird wear marks on it that I think is from it smacking around.

 

Had you already done the rear spacers? I'm assuming no chance of doing the sti linkage without doing this?

 

 

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Damn. Not in utah anymore. Mine doesn't seem to have much play but is showing some weird wear marks on it that I think is from it smacking around.

 

Had you already done the rear spacers? I'm assuming no chance of doing the sti linkage without doing this?

 

 

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I did it all at once. Interestingly, once I had the outback linkage and shifter out of the car I compared the STI shifter with the outback and a legacy. The STI was almost identical to the outback but nowhere close to the legacy. STI to outback from fulcrum to bottom of ball was <.25 longer and approximately .125 shorter from fulcrum to top of threads. Comparing the STI to the GT the STI was >.50 longer from fulcrum to ball. I might put the STI shifter back in because the STI linkage and Cobb adjustable shifter together make it pretty stiff. Yes it's rediculously short between gears

 

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I did it all at once. Interestingly, once I had the outback linkage and shifter out of the car I compared the STI shifter with the outback and a legacy. The STI was almost identical to the outback but nowhere close to the legacy. STI to outback from fulcrum to bottom of ball was .50 longer from fulcrum to ball. I might put the STI shifter back in because the STI linkage and Cobb adjustable shifter together make it pretty stiff. Yes it's rediculously short between gears

 

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Did you compare the shift arm mechanism by chance? I'm curious if an Outback version is a cheaper alternative to the subaru sti 5MT version.

 

I'm referring to part number C1010FL050.

Did you compare the shift arm mechanism by chance? I'm curious if an Outback version is a cheaper alternative to the subaru sti 5MT version.

 

I'm referring to part number C1010FL050.

Within 1/8 of the outback linkage. I can't recall which was longer. I have the STI shifter still as I used the Cobb shifter. STI shifter with outback linkage hybrid?

 

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Within 1/8 of the outback linkage. I can't recall which was longer. I have the STI shifter still as I used the Cobb shifter. STI shifter with outback linkage hybrid?

 

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Thanks. From quick searches the LGT/Impreza linkage is 10 3/4" and the shirt throw version is 11".

My suspicions were confirmed. I believed at ~1.5" front drop on legacy coilovers I was binding the suspension and loading the FSB. I suspected this because when I decreased the lower spring seat .25 to go from 1.25 drop to 1.5 drop the wheel arch measurement did not change and the ride quality suffered. When I removed the subframe spacers the front end is lower and the ride quality is back. Front wheel arch center to ground on 235/40/18 is now 24.875 whereas before subframe spacer removal I was 25.375. now the rear needs to come down an inch. Ideally I would like to get it on corner scales someday

 

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My suspicions were confirmed. I believed at ~1.5" front drop on legacy coilovers I was binding the suspension and loading the FSB. I suspected this because when I decreased the lower spring seat .25 to go from 1.25 drop to 1.5 drop the wheel arch measurement did not change and the ride quality suffered. When I removed the subframe spacers the front end is lower and the ride quality is back. Front wheel arch center to ground on 235/40/18 is now 24.875 whereas before subframe spacer removal I was 25.375. now the rear needs to come down an inch. Ideally I would like to get it on corner scales someday

 

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That's interesting and really important. Needs to get pinned somewhere. I had "0.9" drop (LGT) Teins on Konis and was pretty happy, but I knew the ride quality vs full compression event compromise meant nice ride, but you will get 100% into the bump stops. I spent a ton of hours researching progressive bump stops for this reason but never pulled the trigger on any. A shorter shock body, like the coil overs usually have, would given more room for ride compliance. But not that much! just another half inch.

 

So a good "rule of thumb" for the Outback might be a max of 1-1.25" lower than LGT before spacer removal is recommended/required. Yes? Agree?

Edited June 16, 2021 by rebourne

Ugh maybe I'll just do it all at once. Probably the best thing to do anyway.

 

 

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That's interesting and really important. Needs to get pinned somewhere. I had "0.9" drop Teins on Konis and was pretty happy, but I knew the ride quality vs full compression event compromise meant nice ride, but you will get 100% into the bump stops. I spent a ton of hours researching progressive bump stops for this reason but never pulled the trigger on any. A shorter shock body, like the coil overs usually have, would given more room for ride compliance. But not that much! just another half inch.

 

 

 

So a good "rule of thumb" for the Outback might be a max of 1-1.25" lower than LGT before spacer removal is recommended/required. Yes? Agree?

I think 1" max lower than legacy would be a good number. Also worth mentioning, when I first installed the whiteline bars they had a lot of preload with outback endlinks. Switching to adjustable endlinks corrected this. I started with whiteline adjustable front and rear and they were at the shortest setting while the suspension was loaded to get no bar preload. As I mentioned before, as I went lower they became loaded again and eventually was loading the bars and fighting suspension bind and axle plunge angle. This is all in theory, except the sway bar loading which I could tell by the bolt passing thru the link and bar.

 

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So as you went lower you needed shorter end links? I guess the sway bar raises up a half inch when you remove the spacers since it's attached to the subframes. So you're still using the whiteline adjustable ones then.

 

Kinda crazy that we are 15 years in to figuring this out lol.

 

 

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https://mvp-autosales.com/inventory/

 

Contiplating getting back into the Outback game again. Came across this 08' 3.0r..little over 130k. Seems like a fair deal

Used car prices have become crazy. I was looking into a 3.0 recently and would think that's decent price but the ad says it's a 2.5.

 

Just looked at the pics. Woulda been nice if they included an engine bay shot. But hey if they'll sell a 3.0 at 2.5 prices....

 

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So as you went lower you needed shorter end links? I guess the sway bar raises up a half inch when you remove the spacers since it's attached to the subframes. So you're still using the whiteline adjustable ones then.

 

Kinda crazy that we are 15 years in to figuring this out lol.

 

 

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For my setup I did to get no preload because that is what I was trying to get to. I'm still running the WL adjustable rears (adjusted full short to get no preload) until they fail. I switched to kartboy solid links up front after one end of one WL link seized at a few thousand miles causing a clunk. Unrelated but related... I tried messing with preloading one corner and also tried adjusting one coilover to get rid of the side to side leaning. I was never successful but after removing the spacers it no longer leans side to side. I'm not sure if it was related or just dumb luck. It's possible the leaning was caused by tightened pivot points while the suspension was not loaded during previous owner's maintenance or repairs

 

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https://mvp-autosales.com/inventory/

 

Contiplating getting back into the Outback game again. Came across this 08' 3.0r..little over 130k. Seems like a fair deal

 

I dug around on that site and found a white 08 for $7999, is that the one? The VIN checks out as a 2.5.

I dug around on that site and found a white 08 for $7999, is that the one? The VIN checks out as a 2.5.

 

 

That's the one I found. Interesting that it's badged as a 3.0. Someone somewhere trying to pull some shenanigans. I feel like 8k is a lot for a regular outback but I guess location etc etc.

 

 

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Norutah that makes sense. I'm planning to put on the legacy bc coils and supposedly that's a minimum of 2" below legacy. That's really my concern. Otherwise I was going to put off the spacers until I needed a new drive shaft. Which I'm pretty sure I don't need yet.

 

 

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Norutah that makes sense. I'm planning to put on the legacy bc coils and supposedly that's a minimum of 2" below legacy. That's really my concern. Otherwise I was going to put off the spacers until I needed a new drive shaft. Which I'm pretty sure I don't need yet.

 

 

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FWIW with 235/40/18 on mine and my Son's daily outback on stocks I am 4.25" lower than him at all 4 wheel arches except his passenger rear which sits .5" higher than any other corner on his car.

 

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I dug around on that site and found a white 08 for $7999, is that the one? The VIN checks out as a 2.5.

Both things made me think wtf as well.

Market here is fair for that. Pacific northwest even the cars with nearly 200k and well maintained draw 3g plus+

3.0r and obxt are not that common though

Seems the market of an obxt from 05-07 with 125-175k go for 4-6500 if taken care of.

08-09 models with 100-150k are 8-12g typically

I was in utah when I bought mine and found the west coast had really expensive obxt. My 08 with 150k was $8k in North Carolina. Minimal dings, good paint, no rust that I've found and well maintained until I spun the rod bearing.... That was two years ago

 

I wanted 08-09 for my short arms and the telescoping wheel

 

 

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Changed a front left wheel bearing with an NTN one.

Also, put some fresh grease inside front left outer cv boot. (be aware with aftermarket cv axles. My experience is that they always put minimal amount of grease in these)

Installed diode dynamic SSC2 led pods at each corner of the hood. Need to post a pic.

Installed diode dynamic SSC2 led pods at each corner of the hood. Need to post a pic.

 

Like with ditch light brackets?