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5eat center diffrential bulletproofing how to


frank_ster

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Hi all well i am one of the few who had thier center diffrential blowup on my 05 legacy gt. And well me being me i'm not just going to put it back together with out making it better!

 

Put my engineering know how to fix this problem.

 

My solution is replacing the stock cage needle bearings with bronze of bronze aluminum busings.

 

How to .

 

1Well you do not need to remouve the transmission.

 

2 remove exaust system, exaust heat shield, rear drive shaft, intercooler and the support under the intercooler.

 

3 remove the transmission brace

 

4 remove the rubber transmission mount then using 10 mm the speed sensor on the tail housing and finally 12mm take out all the bolts for the tranny tail housing.

 

5 the housing is still fairly tight because the dowel pins that are used for locating the talhousing, so use plastic hammer or hammer and block of wood and start banging on it from side to side and top and bottem.

 

6when you remove it care full not to lose any parts. a 3" diameter shim wil probably fall out. it goes on the bearing for the front drive shaft. also there will be clutches for the center diffrential that will be loose. take thes all and put them in to a metal dish.

 

7 the whole diffrential assembly will now pop out using a pry bar and it will come out with a long shaft.

 

well its supper time i will continue this later.

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Edited by frank_ster

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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how much stronger ? well probably twice as tuff. the needle bearings that were in there are like glass.. there excelent in high wear situations but in high load situations such as a connecting rod a bushing is much more relaiable. also the bushing puts the stress in more of a "direct shear situation" for the farmers out there.. lest say you have a draw pin and its 3 feet long between the toungs on the wagon .. you could bend that pin pretty easily. but if the toungs on the wagon are 1/4" wider than the tractor drawbar that same size pin will never bend.

 

for you weight lifters if you lift the bench press bar in the middle it will bend .. if your hads are right next to the weights it won't. thats the idea.

 

since my engins is prodcing over 350 ft lbs tq and the torq converter dubbles that so 700 ft lbs x 3.54 for first gear 2478 ft lbs of torq divided in to those for little pins .. and well snap!

 

cost of pins .. well .. if you had one made at a machine shop .. it would cost you 20-30$ if you had a few hundred made it would cost you 5$ a peice .. its a failry simple up grade. that a diy guy could do in an afternoon and cost less than a 100$

 

So if you guys have any questions let me know

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Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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pic # 4 of the first post shows on the left the orignal needle bearing set and the 3 of the 4 bushings that are the needle bearings replacement.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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I think I follow. And there are two stock needle bearings for a total of 8 which are being replaced with 4 longer bronze bushings? The location of the gears are in pic 1 of your second post? So what exactly happened in your case? How did they fail? Isn't there a concern with the replacements chewing themselves over time and creating a clearance/play? What if you were to slide the replacement bushings inside the stockers to reinforce them?
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well bronze is pretty damm ling life .. and snce they are running in oil .. and the fact that the gears are not actualy turning 99 % of the time its will last forever..

those gears only turn when your turning with the car..

and or if you tow the car .. witch your not suposto do anyways

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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So all you are doing is you are replacing the needle bearings with a wrist pin style? What material are you making it out of? Are you heat treating them?

 

Doh!! Just re-read it and see you are using bronze and alum. You could also try a D2 tool steel in its raw state (no heat treat) That would give you superior wear resistance and the chrome would add massive amounts strength. I believe it would still be softer than the mating components as well.

Other good materials:

4140

4150 (a bit stronger than 4140)

Both of the above come in a pre-hard form and could be precision ground to your specific tolerance.

Otherwise S7 tool steel would work good too. It's a shock resistant tool steel.

Most of the above materials come in Rockwell C rating in the upper 20s to low 30s in the raw form for the tool steels and the same for the 4140/4150 in the prehard form.

Edited by CapnJack
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Could'nt have been the e-brake drifting you were doing a few months ago? :lol:

 

NO! hahaha put your tranny with my tq ehind my engine and i will blow the center diff out of it instalntly with out even driving out of the garage .

 

as for you guys talking about tool steels .. you guys don't seam to get the point .. the aluminum brass busing replaces the needle bearings so the brass is the bearing now .. if you replaced it with hard tool steel it would chew in to either the gear or the shaft and be broken in a week. you can't have two hard surfaces rubbing on eachother. its always a hard surface on a soft surface.

 

 

for the guy wondering if you have to drop the tranny .. well you don't drop the exaust and rear drive shaft and your there.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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NO! hahaha put your tranny with my tq ehind my engine and i will blow the center diff out of it instalntly with out even driving out of the garage .

 

as for you guys talking about tool steels .. you guys don't seam to get the point .. the aluminum brass busing replaces the needle bearings so the brass is the bearing now .. if you replaced it with hard tool steel it would chew in to either the gear or the shaft and be broken in a week. you can't have two hard surfaces rubbing on eachother. its always a hard surface on a soft surface.

 

 

for the guy wondering if you have to drop the tranny .. well you don't drop the exaust and rear drive shaft and your there.

 

Thank you! So assuming my center dif shows any sign of wear (some do not), how does someone with minimal engineering background get this done? Take the whole assembly to the machine shop, say make me bearings out of aluminum brass to replace these needle bearings? Or do I need more information to make sure it's done right? I'm an engineering noob, so thank you for answering what may be very obvious questions. Closest I got to an engineering degree was a mechi I dated in college. She made stuff like this... we don't talk anymore.

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+1 for the replacement part specs. I'm sure any decent tranny shop ought to know exactly what's going on if you were to print out this thread/pics

 

eh... trans shops around here wouldn't know what to do at all. They kind of just take trannys out and put them in, take them apart and rebuild with the kit that comes prepackaged, or a mirror junker. Even heat treating is an anomaly.

 

Which leads me to my next question. Frank, if I sent you $100 or whatever, would you be able to have your machine shop make up a replica set of what you had done? I somehow think that would be just a lot more reliable. Perhaps I could trade you that for some spare parts off my junker trans. This is all at least a few months out, but hopefully we can figure out how to 100% certainly replicate what you have done in the mean time.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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man, this is why i hate this site.

Just when I say I’m done with modding everything (vb just done), something else comes up to make it safer or better…..or faster.

I’m already considering what I’ll have to do for a turbo when the one I just put in goes….. well, if I buy the bnr turbo in the near future, then I can…blah blah blah…..

I love my car and everything I’ve modded.

All this banter just to say that I’d like to get in line for this modded center diff.

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