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The Best Oil Filter


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So I am ready for the switch over to Sync oil.

 

Going to try the German Castrol Syntec 0w30.

 

The question is the oil filter.

 

I have read through a search on it, but it is a little hard to figure it out.

 

Seems like a sure bet is the stock filter, but I also read that you can get a slightly longer filter - which migh be better.

 

One example is the Purolator Pureone. Stock = PL14610, but the PL14612 will work and is bigger.

 

Can anyone tell me why a bigger filter would be better?

 

Also, from the search and bobtheoilguy.com research, it seems that the K&N oil filter seems to be the best.

 

Anyone want to add thier $.02?

 

Anyone know the K&N filter part # (for stock size)?

 

Anyone know the K&N filter part # (for a larger than stock filter that will work)?

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The OEM filter is a Purolator Pure One. They are very high quality filters.

 

Taller is good because it has more filter medium and will keep the oil cleaner, longer.

 

As an FYI, the Mobil 1 M1-108 is the stock-size replacement, and the M1-110 is like twice the size (taller) and otherwise identical. The Mobil filters are of very high quality as well.

 

Jeremy

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Stick with the stock oil filter.

 

I did 5200 hard miles on Mobil 1 10W-30 in 1 month and the oil analysis afterwards showed the oil still had active additive and that I could extend my oil change interval.

 

Again, just stick with the stock oil filter.

 

Link to Report : http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12734

 

Link to Oil Filter Pleat Area/Construction Comparison : http://imprezawrxsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16252

 

Edit: A bigger filter is not necessarily a better filter. Just because it is bigger doesn't mean the filter material has more surface area. Bigger filters also cause a bigger drop between the incoming and outgoing oil pressure, which is not something you want in a turbocharged engine. Ever think about why Subaru engineers purposefully designed a smaller oil filter, just think about that.

I keed I keeed
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...well Subaru engineers also put a catalytic converter in the uppipe... they also made nearly every '04 and '05 WRX have SERIOUS tuning issues...

 

Anyhoo, the move to a narrower filter was apparently to put more air space between the manifold and the oil filter so it didn't get heated up as badly. The stock size is also used on motorcycles, btw. It's an extremely small filter.

 

Jeremy

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I'm using the Purolator Pure 1 filter and the Mobil 1 combo. I also decided to use the pl14612 filter. Its longer and will have more capicity. These are readily avaiable at most stores near me. The Mobil 1 filters are hard to find. The ratings I saw found that the Pure 1 (stock length PL14610) to be almost as good as the Mobil 1 but the Mobil 1 had more capicity. I reasoned that a larger version of the Pure 1 would have more capicity and be readily avaiable so that is why i'm using that combo.
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I wasn't sure if anyone uses the Mobil 1 filters, but AutoZone carries them. Additionally, if you buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1 AND a Mobil 1 filter, you get an instant $7.50 rebate :D

 

...at least I have the last two times I've purchased oil. It's not advertised and both times the guy behind the counter was surprised by it... crazy.

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So that they can sell it in the US with those anal emissions law. It is a hack, but correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Does the car have any issues stock wise, or is it only when you starting custom tuning it ?

 

If the stock oil filter was so bad, Subaru would be out of business right now after fixing all the failed engines.

 

So what if it's an extremely small filter, the data shows it is doing an excellent job relatively. If you have an oil analysis of your used oil with an aftermarket filter that shows it does a better job, then and only then can you say with certainty that the stock oil filter is not as good as the aftermarket one.

I keed I keeed
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IMO, using the stock Subie oil filter is a no brainer. That is most likely the filter used when testing our engines and is most likely the filter spec'd by Subie engineers as one that will filter the engine oil correctly and maintain engine life. Why use anything else? No doubt other filters may perform better, but how can one be sure, given our turbo engine and proximity to the exhaust? To me using the filter spec'd by Subaru seems like the best choice.
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Read this thread on Bobistheoilguy : http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002383

 

The smaller oil filter is specifically to clear the headers and not heatup the oil, plus if the stock oil filter leaks/fails Subaru will cover the tow and warranty. But if you go for an aftermarket filter, Subaru doesn't have to cover the tow and warranty because it doesn't know the specifications of the aftermarket oil filter since they aren't fully published, and then you have togo court, get the data from the aftermarket manufacturer of the oil filter's construction and hope that just because the filter fits your engine then it is made to at least the same specs as the stock filter.

 

When you're powertrain warranty ends, then slap on any aftermarket oil filter that will keep you happy and it will be your pocket when it fails.

 

Again as deneb said, it is a no brainer.

I keed I keeed
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Stick with the stock oil filter.

 

I did 5200 hard miles on Mobil 1 10W-30 in 1 month and the oil analysis afterwards showed the oil still had active additive and that I could extend my oil change interval.

 

Again, just stick with the stock oil filter.

 

Link to Report : http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12734

 

Link to Oil Filter Pleat Area/Construction Comparison : http://imprezawrxsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16252

 

Edit: A bigger filter is not necessarily a better filter. Just because it is bigger doesn't mean the filter material has more surface area. Bigger filters also cause a bigger drop between the incoming and outgoing oil pressure, which is not something you want in a turbocharged engine. Ever think about why Subaru engineers purposefully designed a smaller oil filter, just think about that.

Your sure about bigger filters causing a bigger D/P? Thats not my experiance at work. We use pressure guages to monitor D/P across our filters and bigger has smaller D/P that results in HIGHER outlet pressure. As the filter becomes dirty the D/P drops more and more and the otlet pressure drops with it.

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IMO, using the stock Subie oil filter is a no brainer. That is most likely the filter used when testing our engines and is most likely the filter spec'd by Subie engineers as one that will filter the engine oil correctly and maintain engine life. Why use anything else? No doubt other filters may perform better, but how can one be sure, given our turbo engine and proximity to the exhaust? To me using the filter spec'd by Subaru seems like the best choice.

It seems to be a very good filter. The "best" ? i'm less sure of that.

Auto makers dont normally go with money is no object choices. Just like other parts on the car, things can be improved.

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Does the car have any issues stock wise, or is it only when you starting custom tuning it ?

Cars are knocking BADLY, bone stock. There is a huge delay in the switch between open and closed loop fueling and the car runs at a stoich air/fuel ratio for a couple seconds under full boost. It is a bad, bad problem. Worse than when some of the first STI's were pinging on Cali gas. This affects every single '04+ WRX. Most people simply feel it as a flat spot in the powerband, which is the ECU pulling timing in response to the knock. Anything that helps the turbo spool quicker -- exhaust stuff, uppipe, etc -- exacerbates the problem because the car is at full boost longer before switching to open loop fueling.

 

IMO, using the stock Subie oil filter is a no brainer. That is most likely the filter used when testing our engines and is most likely the filter spec'd by Subie engineers as one that will filter the engine oil correctly and maintain engine life. Why use anything else? No doubt other filters may perform better, but how can one be sure, given our turbo engine and proximity to the exhaust? To me using the filter spec'd by Subaru seems like the best choice.

By this token you would never modify anything on your car. Are you enjoying those RE-92's? Those are the tires "spec'd" by Subaru. I wonder why it puts them on nearly every single model. I bet it's because they were tested on each one and found to be the best possible tires, right? Maybe it's because the company gets a $2 discount per car when they buy xxx,xxx,xxx tires.

 

Maybe Subaru is using the exact same filter on our fancy turbo Legacys as it did on its 2.2 liter 1994 Impreza L. Well no, they made it skinner in '04.

 

The smaller oil filter is specifically to clear the headers and not heatup the oil

Yes correct. Lets not confuse skinnier smaller and shorter smaller. As mentioned, the difference between the two Purolator Pure One filters (one being the stock filter that Subaru uses, by the way.... and you can get the Pure One's from autoparts stores for less than the stock one at a dealership, which should be no surprise) and the two Mobil 1 filters that I linked is how tall they are. They are all the same width. The manifold snakes around the side of the filter. Subaru did not change the height, they made it skinnier. No matter how tall the filter is, it has nothing whatsoever to do with its proximity to the manifold and nothing to do with how much heat it absorbs...

 

...actually, you could argue the taller filter gets more airflow, which would have a cooling effect. Increased oil capacity is a bonus. More filter medium means it can filter and hold more "stuff" without restriction. There is an inlet and outlet side in an oil filter just like an air filter. More surface area almost always means less restriction and longer service life.

 

Jeremy

 

The bright side is that our cars don't work filters very hard. I can't remember how many threads (dozen?) I've read with peoples' oil analysis results, but it's rare to see any breakdown before a good 8,000 miles, regardless of filter. To be completely honest, I don't think it's all that important on our cars.

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Thanx for all the advice.

 

I think the point of using a taller filter might have some positive benefit, but I also think the argument that the stock filter filters enough for the engine is valid.

 

I will run the PL610, with the GC 0w30.

 

I think if I change the oil and filter every 5000k my engine will be fine.

 

The higher grade oil should make things better for the filter - so great oil and stock filter should be the safest and best performing combo.

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By this token you would never modify anything on your car. Are you enjoying those RE-92's? Those are the tires "spec'd" by Subaru. I wonder why it puts them on nearly every single model. I bet it's because they were tested on each one and found to be the best possible tires, right? Maybe it's because the company gets a $2 discount per car when they buy xxx,xxx,xxx tires.

 

Maybe Subaru is using the exact same filter on our fancy turbo Legacys as it did on its 2.2 liter 1994 Impreza L. Well no, they made it skinner in '04.

 

 

Well, I never claimed that the Subie filter was 'the best filter'. My claim is that that is most likely the filter tested with our engines, that is the filter most likely verified by Subaru to perform the proper filtration, that is the filter most likely tested by Subaru to maintain proper engine performance and long life. If that isn't the case, by all means please fill us in. Once again, to me using the OEM filter is a no-brainer. If someone here has info. that the Subie filter isn't so good after all, please please please let us know.

 

And FWIW, I don't have any issues with the RE 92's personally, though I doubt I drive as hard as some here.

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Well, I never claimed that the Subie filter was 'the best filter'. My claim is that that is most likely the filter tested with our engines, that is the filter most likely verified by Subaru to perform the proper filtration, that is the filter most likely tested by Subaru to maintain proper engine performance and long life. If that isn't the case, by all means please fill us in. Once again, to me using the OEM filter is a no-brainer. If someone here has info. that the Subie filter isn't so good after all, please please please let us know.

 

And FWIW, I don't have any issues with the RE 92's personally, though I doubt I drive as hard as some here.

 

^^ +1 to what he said.

 

I have been using ssubie filters for as long as I have owned my WRX and now LGT...and would not see any realworld 'benefit' from changing to a different brand, unless it was 'proven' to be better. I change the oil often enough, that it's not a concern...never had a gummed up turbo, or internals that weren't working correctly. Heck, never even had a CEL...except for an P0440 code, on the WRX 2 days after I bought it...all becuase of crappy gas from the dealers!!! :mad: Oh well, though...prove it, and someone might still try it.

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No I fully agree. The stock filters, aka Purolator Pure One, are VERY good. They are infinitely better than running a Fram. Nothing wrong, whatsoever, with the OEM filter. It is usually the one I advise people to run for simplicity's sake.

 

However, the idea of going and getting the stock-match Purolator Pure One from Napa or Pep Boys or wherever is still legit if you feel like sticking with OEM and saving a few bucks (they're ~ $6 compared to ~ $12 at the dealership). The otherwise-identical taller version may very well be the exact same price... it is w/ the Mobil 1 filters (all $10.99).

 

btw -- if you do a Google search for PL14610 (stock replacement Pure One) or M1-108 you'll see that most hits are motorcycle related :D. It's kind of funny. Apparently the Miata uses the same filter also. A lot of those motorcycle sites talk about replacing the 108 with the 110, actually. Sometimes bigger actually is better ;)

 

Jeremy

 

...and just to be clear, the thread title IS "The Best Oil Filter"..... so simply saying that the stock one is "good enough" and not wanting to go to a larger capacity one just cuz doesn't exactly feel like keeping in theme with what the thread starter was asking $0.02 ...considering the question asked, if one never claims that the OEM filter is the "best filter" then maybe that person shouldn't suggest it in a "best filter" thread. Considering that the Pure One IS the OEM filter and it's half the price, I'd say that's a better choice for "best filter" candidate. Considering there's an identical one that's twice as tall, I'd say that's an even better candidate... I mean, it's still the OEM one we all know and love, but it's taller. Maybe the extra filtering capacity isn't necessary... but maybe our airbags will never be necessary either. We all love our cars. A little overkill on stuff like this isn't exactly weird, and it doesn't hurt.

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However, the idea of going and getting the stock-match Purolator Pure One from Napa or Pep Boys or wherever is still legit if you feel like sticking with OEM and saving a few bucks (they're ~ $6 compared to ~ $12 at the dealership). The otherwise-identical taller version may very well be the exact same price... it is w/ the Mobil 1 filters (all $10.99).

 

Jeremy

 

I hear ya there, but I usually get a discount at the local subie dealer for mine...usually comes out to about 9 bucks including the crush washer. Who knew those darned little things were so expensive! Maybe a fumoto valve is in order...so I don't have to replace those stupid things anymore.

 

As far as the filter...well, I guess it's easier just to get a subie one, that way, if something 'does' go wrong, at least it's an OEM version. Guess it also helps their business some...regardless.

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It is gonna be hi-larious if My Honda Hawk GT, My wife's 99 Miata, AND my future Legacy GT all get the same oil and filter. Mobil 1 synth oil and either a purolator or Wix filter. I'll start buying in bulk.

 

That is, until I get a stainless steel mesh permanent, re-useable filter, and a reasonably local source for redline synthetic oil. Then the Miata will get an oil filter relocation and thermostat-controlled cooler kit, and one of those quarter-turn valve.

 

When I get the Legacy, it'll eventually get the same re-useable filter, valve, and redline synthetic oil.

 

I have to agree with those who say that the OE filter is likely quite fine, but isn't the end-all, be-all. There are plenty of examples of subaru cost cutting.

 

I know that companies will try to skirt warranties on things like aftermarket oil filters, or any other thread they can pull. But, honestly; how likely is a proper, quality oil filter, from any vendor going to cause a problem?

 

The tire analogy is apt. Using an aftermarket oil filter is a lot like using alternate replacement tires. As long as you use quality parts, selected to fit and operate correctly, it is at least as good as OE, and possibly BETTER. Whoever said that car companies make bottom line decisions is right on, not necessarily absolutely the best parts, regardless of price. Ferrari, maybe; Subaru, probably not.

 

It is probably six of one, half a dozen of the other on the oil filters, and I'd rather support my local autoparts store, to help them stay in business, with parts for my car, rather than a car dealer that can charge ~100% more for the same parts, and probably doesn't live-or-die on parts sales.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 9 years later...

Hi Subaru owners.

So I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5 non-turbo. At the very beginning when I bought it the dealer used conventional oil whichever they had at every service.

 

At about 45k I decided to switch to synthetic oil, I use Mobil 1 (5W-30 grey bottles) and I use OEM filter (#15208AA12A).

 

But i started seeing that there is a bigger filter available (#15208AA15A). The only difference is that it is a little taller.

 

I started reading and some articles say that the OEM filter (#15208AA12A) isn't enough. So I drive for 10k and change the oil. And I am about to change the oil and new filter but I wonder does it really matter since I swiched from conventional oil to synthetic.

I mean I use the same OEM filter. And the filter does only one job.

 

Would anybody advise to use the bigger filter? I have a hard time believing that some articles say that OEM filter (#15208AA12A) won't hold 10k ?:spin:

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