What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Took it for a snowy ride yesterday. The Blizzaks have seen better days but the car is so good in this crap. I am just over 300 miles on the new build. So far all is well.

 

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Why?

 

 

See below. This is from GrimmSpeed site

 

 

 

Performance

Flow Bench Results vs. OEM at 28" WC

OEM Catless - 244.6 CFM

OEM Catted - 164.7 CFM

GrimmSpeed - 292.6 CFM

Spool Up

Application specific but generally you will see 300-400rpm quicker spool up

 

 

 

 

I am guessing my Invidia is probably between OEM catless and GrimmSpeed performance. Don't know for sure though. Maybe I won't feel a difference in the end..

I'd imagine that application specific disclaimer and no measurements next to actual measurements means it's likely reasonable to expect half of what their claiming. And that increase is probably the spread from catted to their piece. It's probably not noticable in daily driving I'd wager.

 

Having said that I chose to run the gs piece back when there wasn't supply issues. I didn't mind spending the extra hundred or so to get something new out of the box rather than used.

I was going to run a GS unit (a used one) and then found out that some 'ribs' within the flex joint area (inside the pipe) had already begun to crack, which can possibly send shrapnel to the turbine..

Question.....why the flex joint on the up pipes? Some have it and some don't. OEM doesn't have it or does it?

 

I went with the Cobb piece. No flex joint.

 

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I have an OEM catless (STI or WRX one) on the 05. There is in fact a flex joint.

The 06 has an Invidia. No flex joint. Nice big crack below the turbo at the weld.

 

 

I believe it is to allow some flex and potentially avoid cracks.

Edited January 24, 2022 by xt2005bonbon

Then the KB uppipe I'm waiting to put in has no flex joint and from what I can tell, not very many instances of cracking. Might have something to do with 321 vs 304/316 SS, though (and that KB fab quality of course) Edited January 24, 2022 by amm203

So you are referring to the Killer B holy header and uppipe combo? I thought for a minute Killer B was selling an uppipe too, but can't find it on their site.

I got lucky and snagged a holy header/EWG v-band uppipe from someone selling new "open box" last year. I believe due to EPA crap they stopped selling the v-band EWG up altogether. Haven't checked their website to see if they're selling a 2-bolt non-EWG version by itself but I guess not, unfortunately. Curious why they wouldn't offer a 2-bolt up in today's market but maybe they're just focusing on header combos only

 

Edit: Judging by their "Tial MV-S Dump Tube" price ($160!?), their Up might be in the neighborhood of $500-600 by itself. Probably not a profitable piece.

Edited January 24, 2022 by amm203

I buy everything from 1 of 4 places:

 

Eastern Beaver

Cycle Terminal

Corsa Technic

Ballenger Motorsports

 

 

Eastern Beaver is quite a character.

Then the KB uppipe I'm waiting to put in has no flex joint and from what I can tell, not very many instances of cracking. Might have something to do with 321 vs 304/316 SS, though (and that KB fab quality of course)

 

Would you prefer to have a non-EWG up? I have a KBHH setup but not EWG.

I just bought a V-band no EWG KBHH with Swaintech coating a month or so ago... it's right here on their website: https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/el-4-1-performance-holy-header-up-pipe.html.html

 

 

No flex joint on their UP.

 

Edit: derp, didn't realize you were talking about UP with an EWG. Reading comprehension.... clearly I lack it

Edited January 25, 2022 by solidxsnake

Would you prefer to have a non-EWG up? I have a KBHH setup but not EWG.

 

If my build doesn't pan out I will definitely part with it. My biggest worry is by the time I get around to getting it installed and tuned, a shop will be too scared to tune an EWG setup due to fines (hope I'm wrong)

Got a STi steering wheel in excellent shape and alcantara console lid, newly installed and very happy with.

 

My dash is at the dealership too, picking it up this AM.

 

Average pic and messy, but pretty damn happy with the progress

No pics but booked paint for the bodyshop to paint all my JDM panels and S402 fenders.

What a tease! Now we get to have blue balls until your post up progress photos.

 

When are you supposed to be dropping all of these off? Estimated time the bodyshop will take to finish up?

Yeah, you're in the hole deep. One thing I'd recommend is fashioning some dowels for reinstalling the manifold. Made that process a bajillion times easier. These are the passenger side dowels circled, with the manifold having been seated.

[ATTACH]294963[/ATTACH]

 

So it goes like this:

- Buy 4 pretty long bolts. I can't remember off the top of my head, but maybe 6 inches minimum. Also can't remember the exact thread measurement. Maybe m10x1.5? Take one of the manifold to head bolts with you to the store.

- Cut the head of the bolts off

- Use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a notch into the now top of the bolt.

- Position these 4 studs into the heads to guide the manifold down. Two per head. They don't need to bottom out in the head, just a few threads to keep them steady.

- Once the manifold is down (don't forget the gaskets!) install the other two manifold-head bolts, and unscrew the studs with a narrow regular screw driver. Use a magnet to pick the studs up fully out of the manifold. Install the remaining two bolts per side. Immediately start car and do wheelies for days.

 

I was terrified of mangling the head-tgv gaskets when I was fixing my fuel lines. This ensured the manifold went straight down, and completely lined up with the head bolt holes. I still needed to finagle the manfiold assembly past a few hoses and harnesses, but even that wasn't that bad knowing I had the guide dowels waiting.

 

 

Brilliant!

 

 

ISTR putting those injectors in there.

I'll bet you also recall telling me to use oetiker clamps on the fuel lines when you saw I was using worm clamps.

 

I of course didn't listen and found myself coming up with a new way to reinstall the manifold after switching to the correct clamps . Oem fuel hoses and oetiker clamps. Still leak free 5 years later. Napa fuel hose and worm clamps lasted like 10 months.

I put a sticker on mine to pay homage to this being the car I used in Gran Turismo 4's 4WD Challenge growing up!

Funny enough, I put together a invitation with forum members' cars using GT3 A-Spec's Sunday Cup and 4WD Challenge as inspiration, as I loved this game growing up. Fired it up a couple months ago actually.

 

Here it is:

 

 

If the weather holds out and I have enough time, do I need to pull the bumper to put in the Morimoto fog lights?

 

SC

I did not need to remove my bumper when I changed mine out. I believe you have access to the two bolts either through the opening of the fogs or directly underneath (might have to remove engine skid plate or those little side splash plates)

Good to know!

 

SC

Today I got the rear bumper and headlights reinstalled. Hopefully I can get the front bumper and lip on tomorrow since it will be our last sunny day.

Morimotos installed!

 

It would be nice if there was a hole, in the splash guard, that lined up with the alignment screw so that you don't have to deal with pushing it out of the way to align the lights, but overall it's a fairly easy install to do.

 

I took plenty of pictures so I'll try to write something up that will hopefully save people down the line from some of the annoyances.

 

SC