taysubaru Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Hi All, Unfortunately the turbo on my '05 LGT has failed. There seems to be turbine blades rattling in the exhaust side of the turbo and no boost. The car has 194K on it. The banjo bolts don't seem clogged and oil levels are fine. It randomly failed going uphill in cruise control at 110km/hr... puzzling. I wanted to ask and see if anyone has any personal experience or advice on turbo replacements or rebuilds? I'm just looking to get an "in-kind" fix, so I can sell the car working as it should (i.e. no need to upsize). I recognize there are turbo wikis on the website, but I'm hoping to find someone with experience going through this process. My main questions: - Is it easy to find the part and replace the turbo? - Is there a particular brand or website I should look at? - How much (~) would this cost? - Would this repair be worthwhile at this point (considering resale value)? - Is buying a turbo rebuild kit a feasible option? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate it. Tay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 PM member JmP6889928 John is the one we send members to as he does a great job rebuilding these turbos. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I would drain the oil and check for bearing material in the oil (metal) 1st. No point in throw good money after a engine that is going to eminently fail and will destroy the new/rebuild turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Rebuilding the turbo is feasible, but yeah with 194k on the clock - send the oil off to be analyzed to make sure you're not on last legs with the rest of it. Even if you want to sell it. I had my VF52 rebuilt from Six Star Speed, this was many years ago now..... but it's only got about 2,000 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 You can't just buy a rebuild kit and slap it together because an out of balance rotating assembly will just rattle itself to death. Its best to just send the failed turbo to someone like jmp and see if they can replace the internals. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Reasonable option! https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ny-rebuilt-vf40-turbo-283174.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 The flanges on that don't look to smooth. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taysubaru Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 I would drain the oil and check for bearing material in the oil (metal) 1st. No point in throw good money after a engine that is going to eminently fail and will destroy the new/rebuild turbo. Flushed the oil and no sign of metal pieces, went through the oil with a magnet. However, just before doing the oil change, the car had the CEL come on, and the P0011 and P0021 error codes come up. Any idea if these issues are related? What would you suggest I do next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Did you get my reply to your pm? I was wondering since I didn’t receive a response from you. There can be bearing material in the oil fine enough that you wouldn’t see it but would show up on an oil analysis, I have seen this before. I have also seen these so bad that there is bearing glitter so thick that you can see it on the dipstick (my own outback was purchased with this condition). A lot of times it seems that the codes you’re getting coupled with the mileage and turbo failure go hand and hand with engine failure. A turbo replacement needs to happen but a turbo replacement on a failing motor will just eventually run metal through your replaced turbo. I personally would do an oil analysis before making any further decisions. I’m not sure how flushing your oil will effect the outcome of the test though. Might need to run it a bit first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr-C Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 A rebuilt VF52 cost me $600 some years back, so I imagine similar price for yours. I'm sure if you call some recycling yards or JDM import shops you'll be able to source something for around $300-$400. Doing the job involves removing exhaust bolts, oil/coolant lines, hoses and inlet which are all prone to be seized, rusted or break/tear due to being brittle + new gaskets all around (as best practice)....+ $/hr if you are getting the job done. Just food for thought if you're considering selling, if you don't want to deal with the possible headaches and additional cost. Might as well bite the bullet and make it someone else's problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Agree with Mr c that if you're just going to sell it, maybe let it go now for cheap. As mentioned there might be a lot more wrong with it. I spun a rod bearing in mine (probably) and while the turbo had no shaft play, and the metal wasn't visible in the removed oil pan, I could just make it out in the oil filter. My understanding is a magnet won't pick anything up since it's all aluminum anyway. If you've made it to 194k (is that km so 120k mi?) miles on a stock tune without replacing the turbo you're doing better than most it seems. If you're at 194k km then well, that seems about right for these cars unfortunately. Bearings wear out and most people don't know to check them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Oh also I rebuilt my vf-46 through jmp and it was great. He gives a lot to this forum and has rebuilt a lot of these turbos. My rebuild was quick but idk what his turn around is now. Way better than buying a random oe bearing used. Rebuilds from everyone are $500+ though from even the cheapest people I could find online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taysubaru Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 A rebuilt VF52 cost me $600 some years back, so I imagine similar price for yours. I'm sure if you call some recycling yards or JDM import shops you'll be able to source something for around $300-$400. Doing the job involves removing exhaust bolts, oil/coolant lines, hoses and inlet which are all prone to be seized, rusted or break/tear due to being brittle + new gaskets all around (as best practice)....+ $/hr if you are getting the job done. Just food for thought if you're considering selling, if you don't want to deal with the possible headaches and additional cost. Might as well bite the bullet and make it someone else's problem Thanks for this - good food for thought. Question on this - the car is in great shape aside from the turbo... 2005 LGTs in Toronto are going for C$3K - C$7K (US$2K-$5K) Some have more miles on them, but also some are the 5 speed manual which may be more valuable. I'd say if I did the turbo, I could list it competitively at C$4,500 If I decided not to do the turbo, and make it someone else's problem, what is a reasonable price to list it for? Based on the cost of the part and service, knocking off C$1000-C$1500 would seem reasonable, but I'm worried someone won't buy a "broken" car for more than like C$500... I know this answer is variable, but I've never sold a car. Curious what people's experience has been with pricing, especially in a similar scenario. Thanks! Taylor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Flushed the oil and no sign of metal pieces, went through the oil with a magnet. However, just before doing the oil change, the car had the CEL come on, and the P0011 and P0021 error codes come up. Any idea if these issues are related? What would you suggest I do next? If I recall, these are codes for the AVCS system, typically the oil control valves are gunked up with bearing or turbocharger material. Replace them completely. They're never any good after a turbo blows up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr-C Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 If your car is clean, minimal rust, well maintained, etc....I would say your listing price is fair in both cases (fixed or not). As they say....there's an Ass for every seat lol. It just might take a while for you to find the right buyer at your price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 P0011 and P0021 code can be due to bearing material in the oil passages. I saw that 2 months ago you mentioned about high pitched whine at idle. If that was your turbo and continue to drive it, the motor failure is probably just around corner. I would sell it as is with a blown turbo and let it be someone else's project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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