1994 Legacy Harmonic Balancer Problem

I have a 1994 Subaru Legacy that I have owned for 10 and a half years. It was having a hard time starting back in December and I thought it was a fuel pump issue. Then one day, it didn't want to start at all. I check under the hood and the harmonic balancer was completely loose and the bolt was as well (so much that I unscrewed the bolt by hand). The old balancer looks like it ate into the timing belt cover. Would replacing the cover fix this? From the picture I took, there seems to be a hair-line crack on the right side and the metal part that the harmonic balancer sits on is pretty broken on the left side.

 

It had a slight wobble but I never had any encounters with a bad one till now. When I smog the car last August, the mechanic was more interested in fixing my A/C (when I have never used).

 

The person I bought this car in 2010 only expect it to last for a few years. But I took good care as I could of the car and it has never let me down. Except for replacing the MAF, PCV valve, and replacing rear brakes, it's been a good car. It's the longest I have ever had a car and, at 62, I have had quite a few. This car is a work horse and a very much a part of the family.

 

I would enclose a picture of the damage but the picture insert wants an URL. I just have the picture on my computer.

 

I just need to know if it's repairable and the cost. I have always worked on my own cars but I am feeling my age and I am on Social Security retirement.

 

Thank You for any advice you can give me!

The stock balancer has a rubber isolater that separates the center core from the outer rim, they are know to dry out and seperate in time. Normally the bolt that holds it in is torqued to 100+ ft lbs (I've broken many tools removing them haha) If yours was able to work it's way loose I can only figure the rubber isolater is failing and causing extra vibration to allow the bolt to walk out. I would recommend removing the old balancer, checking for damage to the crank and then replace the balancer with either a new OEM style replacement or the better but more expensive alternative is to get a solid aluminum pulley such as the one offered by grimmspeed that no longer has the rubber isolater

Since the original lasted 26 years, no need to pay extra for the alloy unit.

Get the generic replacement or pull one from the boneyard.

All of the EJ series use the same pulley.

Torque to at least 125 ft lbs.

Use the access hole on the pass. side to use a screwdriver to hold the flex plate.

Make sure the driver is not bearing against a sensor of some sort.

O.

Edited March 19, 2021 by Osei
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If you are a weekend drive away from Central Arizona I'd be happy to take a look at it. I have specific experience with this problem. Otherwise there is always working out photos.

ok, I finally got a url for the picture from postimage. It looks very serious to me - more than just replacing the balancer.

 

Brighton96 - thanks for letting me know about grimmspeed. I will probably go thru autozone in town as they have them in stock for around $50. I haven't broken any tools but I remember breaking a bolt 20 years ago and don't want to repeat it ever again.

 

Osei - thanks for the torgue lbs (I have a torgue socket wrench) and the information on the flex plate. I will look into it (youtube). Yeah, I don't need any sensor problems.

 

doublechaz - I live in Nevada but thanks!

 

Sorry I got back so late but I work part-time to supplement my social security and i am on the bus system (and the bus system here can include ALOT of walking).

 

https://postimg.cc/Lqb3Ytkk

Sorry guys, I should have used the direct link:

 

https://i.postimg.cc/ydVQGnkG/Harmonic-Balancer.jpg

The cover is good to have, but not essential. Just cover the hole with duct tape.

As long as the keyway is not damaged (which you can fix by peening). If a key is needed, Autozone should have one, If not another auto store.

Even this is not a must, as long as its torqued properly.

 

O.

Yep about the cover. Can't see the crank shaft nose very well in that pic, but what can be seen looks ok. The keyway and woodruff key are the important bits. That does extent to the timing sprocket behind the accessory pully. That part of the keyway and the timing sprocket must be undamaged or dealt with to circumvent the damage.

It's very hard to get a picture of it with my phone as its such a tight area. I will look into the keyway and woodruff key. Don't have much experience with it but usually several youtube videos will point me in the right direction :-). I know about aligning the balancer with the slot into the keyway. I plan to check with AutoZone for new balancer right now. Due to my schedule, I will start work on it next week.

 

Thanks guys for all your help!