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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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My intention was to install my rear diff today, but the weather had other plans. So I finished off a different project. What a colossal pita, I hate sewing now more than ever. And the cover is definitely not cut correctly. A couple inches more leather wouldn't have hurt around the spokes but all in all for the price I cant be upset. d02ed1eb87363e18f52492121ac93eb8.jpg19616c44cc50ab7a390e369666752821.jpg

 

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Frankly speaking this steering wheel looks like half pumped bicycle tube. :(

 

think that has to do with it not being fitted for a D shaped steering wheel...it's a shame, looks good top 2/3, but where it flattens out at the bottom it just creases wrong, and i don't think there's anyhting that could be done for that outside of completely remaking the cover

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think that has to do with it not being fitted for a D shaped steering wheel...it's a shame, looks good top 2/3, but where it flattens out at the bottom it just creases wrong, and i don't think there's anyhting that could be done for that outside of completely remaking the cover
To be honest the cover isn't that great even on the top 2/3 it has some creasing ther as well, it's just better hidden. But for the price, it feels fine. I'm the only one who has to see it. Maybe if I can find a better cover I'll replace it.

 

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How much does the steering wheel uphostery work cost in US? I wrap mine with real leather for 70 usd.
The quote I got from 2 places here for the shaping and cover were close to $1k. Idk about just a leather cover, this one was ~$30

 

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If the wrinkles on the lower section are really bugging you, you could probably add a touch more padding to the lower section (maybe on the inside of the corner where it transitions to the flat part of the wheel) and take up the slack.
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If the wrinkles on the lower section are really bugging you, you could probably add a touch more padding to the lower section (maybe on the inside of the corner where it transitions to the flat part of the wheel) and take up the slack.
I think I will pull it off and try to get the bottom part straightened out.

 

Finally, took some time and swapped my rear diff out. Took me about 3 hours total. If anyone does this, save yourself some time and disconnect the mid pipe then drop it down. Then you can lower the diff and wiggle the cv axles out. I opted to undo the upper ball joint on the driver side, and then ended up dropping the exhaust anyway. It was prett cool the see the rear tires locked together though. I wont lie about that. Can't wait to try it out...

 

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I think I will pull it off and try to get the bottom part straightened out.

 

Finally, took some time and swapped my rear diff out. Took me about 3 hours total. If anyone does this, save yourself some time and disconnect the mid pipe then drop it down. Then you can lower the diff and wiggle the cv axles out. I opted to undo the upper ball joint on the driver side, and then ended up dropping the exhaust anyway. It was prett cool the see the rear tires locked together though. I wont lie about that. Can't wait to try it out...

 

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Did you drop the rear suspension subframe to remove the differential?

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Did you drop the rear suspension subframe to remove the differential?
No just the cross brace is all that's in the way, two nuts on the bottom of the brace, two nuts on the back of the diff, 4 bolts on the driveshaft, 2 bolts holding the brace in. Drop the exhaust and it comes right down then you can get the axles out.dbdd446d90aad81aa52a9ad4f767d153.jpg

 

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Bath, vacuum and minor interior detailing (ran out of carpet cleaner), tire repair found a nail and top off P/S fluid with Dexron IV. Next service I need to flush out the Brake, P/S fluid, check the wheel bearing, brakes and replace one of the fog light bulb.
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wash, spray wax, and installed the oem spoiler that i bought. she looks pretty good, i'm happy with it. also got my state inspection done after it expired in january...i hate state inspections
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Did a little interior detail "hack" yesterday....my driver's side floor mat was getting pretty worn looking right where my heels rub on it while driving. It was actually turning a shiny beige color....dirt,wear etc!

I vacuumed it thoroughly then brushed it to get any last bits of dirt out then went at it with black leather dye (Not shoe polish) but a black dye intended for suede.

Voila.....looks like new again :)

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Applicator-Black/dp/B00B76AWR2/ref=pd_sbs_201_5/141-3590342-2926508?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00B76AWR2&pd_rd_r=c57f8edc-fc4a-467d-befa-7f3424101152&pd_rd_w=0NpXF&pd_rd_wg=pEmJY&pf_rd_p=74b54c94-7195-4620-ba51-7d167ac58a58&pf_rd_r=CM86DGBCTRZ1WATEB51J&psc=1&refRID=CM86DGBCTRZ1WATEB51J

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Just put in new NGK spark plugs... easier than what I'd been led to believe.

Remove air box, remove battery..good access to get in.

 

Was attacked by my toolbox.. maybe I should have closed that drawer. Worst part of the process. Be careful out there.

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Got the koni's installed. Have some issue that makes it feel like the car is crabbing occasionally. Back in the air tomorrow to make sure I didn't forget to tighten something...

 

I would double check everything, but it also might be the alignment is set to crab walk when reassembled. The car will need to be realigned anyways.

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Turns out the alignment was further out than what I thought, so that's what was causing my issue. The rear toe adjusters ended up being seized, so the final result still isn't optimal but its similar to what I've been running with.

 

Install was pretty straight forward. I also replaced the rear lower arms which was also pretty easy. I attempted to replace the front control arms, but the ball joint pinch bolts and rear bushing bolt are permanently stuck. One pinch bolt broke and I was able to repair it, but I gave up on the others before it got worse.

 

Initial impressions: I'm coming from basic Tein coilovers, which I felt were slightly oversprung and fairly underdamped from ideal. These feel generally similar, but with the negatives of the tein's fixed. I'm still on full soft, but body roll seems reduced (a sign of increased damping) and bumps are slightly less severe (lower spring rate, H&R springs). Until I get to experience some firmer settings, I think the difference in cost is only justified by the expected durability. Compared to stock... as previously mentioned, it doesn't compare.

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Hey guys, long time lurker here, finally getting the courage up to post. I worked on my new to me outback this weekend, changed oil, front and rear diffs, coolant, 2 drain and fills on the trans, new air filter, checked plugs and coils. Went from 20mpg to 24, and this 3.6 hauls nicely now. Pretty damn smooth and fast for 168K. Needs a brake swap, battery and a few other details but then time to start mods.

 

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