bermo Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 My problems started with random misfire codes alternating between #1 and #4, they popped while cruising up an incline in 4th at maybe 2psi of boost. Car appeared to run fine, so, brilliant me just cleared the codes. My problem got worse when the code would not clear for more that a minute or so, and the car was obviously missing, running on 3 cylinders. Barely running. Got it home and it pretty much died when my foot came off the pedal. She was shaking really bad. Pulled the #1 plug. Got a new plug in it and it ran fine without misfires but it had a hollow thumping sound coming from #1. The filler tube had pretty good pulses. Pulled the new #1 plug back out and it was covered in oil. #4 plug looks fine. Decision has been made to pull it. Here are the plugs: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Here is my direction: • Bore and hone existing block to 99.75mm • Mahle 4032 pistons • Brian Crower bRod's • New OEM 257 crank • New SixStarSpeed 30-XR • New OEM gaskets • New OEM water pump (...026) • New Busted Finger TGV delete • ARP 2000 head studs • Gates TCK328 • Killer B pick up and baffle • GrimmSpeed TMIC • Meth Inj The oil looks good so far although it smelled like gas. I'll know more when I drop the pan. • Re-use oil pump if pan is clean • Re-use oil cooler is pan is clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Got her pulled this weekend, used the 2 point method with the alternator bracket. Opened the filter and found some gold. Sitting on the stand now, trying to figure out a leak down test without a compressor, former bike guy here so its the bike pump kinda thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 reserved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Sorry to hear man!!! How was the trans holding up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 The trans is doing just fine, but boy its a head snapper when cold! I was already planning on doing this but it came up quicker than I wanted, just gonna move forward with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Have you run the numbers on the cost? Is it worth putting 5-6k into an '06 with miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Well, the car is paid for. 97K miles, not really daily driven. Hoping to do some autocross or track days with my 3 year old when he gets older. I got cash put aside for this because I knew it was coming, I just thought it would be a bit longer. For me, in my situation, it is cheaper to rebuild the motor than to start all over with an unknown car. I got money into in other areas and I kinda love the car. -JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Looks simaliar to my build with my spare block. Might want to look into better bearings since your rebuilding IE king or cosworth. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looks simaliar to my build with my spare block. Might want to look into better bearings since your rebuilding IE king or cosworth. Good luck Plan is to use King Bearings or Clevite, and Cossie, well... that just sounds expensive. Are you doing 4032 or 2618 pistons?? Tight or loose on the PTW? Mahle 4032 wants something like .0021 - .0029 and I'm gonna try and keep it on the tight side. Still looking for a used torque plate for the bore and hone, I thought there would be a few floating around from the one timers. I may just buy a new one and then rent it out to some LGT guys?? -JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 King bearings are the best for the money then cossie. Clevite is having issues with clearances being different. I'm doing 4032 If i stay under the 450whp mahle above cosworth. Clearances are going to be tight since i am not going for to much power. i want to be in the daily driven 400whp with a turbo set for low boost. I want to see how long a setup like this can last. Bren has a ralispec motor with over 100k on it and they run 4032 or cosworth in their street motors. 2618 is designed for a motor that will be re ringed regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 ... Bren has a ralispec motor with over 100k on it and they run 4032 or cosworth in their street motors. How about rods? They needed at the 400whp range? Wonder if Rallispec used a torque plate for the bore and hone? Trying to figure if its worth the hassle and cash, I need all the tricks I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 OEM rods are fine for 400whp but if your making lots of low end torque get a set decent rods. as for a specific brand i haven't decided. HP can destroy rods but torque is what bends them. I guarantee they use a torque plate like 100%of the other professional engine builders. Might be a question of if you have a subaru builder in the area that can machine your block since they already have the tools and know the clearances. Also getting the rotating assembly balanced even though it is "naturally Balanced" it will make for a smoother running motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Got some rods on the way. My "local" builder sends his blocks down to Seattle, that is not an option for me. The plan is taking my block to work, decking it, boring it with a torque plate and then taking it to my buddies shop for the hone. He builds and races Mopars and I'm confident he can hit a number, I just gotta figure out what number. Looks like I'm going to buy a brand new torque plate, can't find a used one. Ugh. Got a balance shop lined up. $200 for a component balance, money well spent. -257 crank arrived -New water pump (…026 cast impeller) arrived -List of hoses gathered -bRods ordered (great price from Sprank BTW) -Need to commit on pistons Mahle or Woosner 4032 -Need to bite the bullet on a new 10mm pump and oil cooler -Need to order King bearings -JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 • Pulled valve covers off and looked at the cams, I don't really know if they look good or not. You can see on the top of the lobe some wear, but you can't really feel it. • Fuel rail pulsation dampener looks like it has been leaking, gonna replace both. • Got 3 of the 4 cam bolts loose by hand with a breaker bar and some nice cam wrenches. The 4th should come off with a rattle gun but it was too late last night and I didn't want to wake the kid. • Will pull intake and heads tonight, hopefully. Going to see if the Harbor Freight Leak Down Tester will work with my Schrader valve set up. • Any idea on what that vac line off the intake is, with the rotten foam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 • Any idea on what that vac line off the intake is, with the rotten foam? It is just called a "vacuum hose assembly" but the part number is 22310AC270. This part nimber includes the hoses on each side as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 ^^Thanks^^ How about the fuel rail dampener?? Have you taken one of them off?? Looks like no fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 What oil were you using ? the heads and cams look very dark compared to others. Not sure I'd waste money on a leak down tester at this point. Just use that money towards the head rebuild. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 Rotella 5W-40 changed ~3K, car only does 6-7K a year. Leak down may be a waste of time at this point, just curious to compare the results to what I find. After getting 3 of the 4 cam bolts out with a breaker bar, the 4th bolt gave a little fight. This #12 Craftsmen extractor and a battery impact did the trick. 26mm or 1" socket to drive the extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 Those OEM cam gear bolts did not seem like a Grade 8 bolt? Kinda soft. Looks like TiC has some bolts with a hex, any other options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I think TiC is the only game in town. Check out JmP's sticky in the top of the 4th Gen forum. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Found what I was expecting to find. Hopefully the heads are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Separated the block, I used a 3/4" brass drift through the access hole and then through the rod. Turned the crank and she came apart pretty easy. All cylinders have good crosshatch except for #1, couple good grooves in it. Haven't had a chance to measure yet. Hoping a good hone might get it. Crank and mains look good. Had .003" thrust on the crank. Machine shop closes early on Friday so I didn't get a chance to talk to him about the heads. Not sure what I'm going to do there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Want to buy my worked heads with kelford stg2 cams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Want to buy my worked heads with kelford stg2 cams? Prolly too much head for a 55lb/min turbo, but would like more info. Email or PM should be fine Josh. Thanks. My heads are going in the shop today for an estimate, I think the pulverized ring land bent the valves so I'm expecting the worst. -Mahle 4032 99.75mm ordered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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