What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

A few days ago I did some EWG tuning and noted that boost wasn't exactly controllable still. Even with the EWG in a 4-port configuration it wasn't able to reach the target boost. My theory was the 12PSI spring on the Mamaba internal wastegate wasn't exactly a 12PSI spring, and thus blowing open

I realized that I never tested the IWG at just WG boost, I had only tested it with hybrid boost control in play. So I set the initial/max WGDC to 0% in the ECU and set the spool up threshold to on the EBC to 19PSI locking it out.

So boost is stabilizing around 8PSI, then creeping up to 13psi in 3rd by 6500 rpm. That creep portion is exactly why I put in the EWG in the first place. The 8PSI is the issue, as the rule of thumb on WG actuators is they are fully blown open by ~2x spring pressure. Thus even at 100% WGDC the IWG is cracking open and negating the benefits of the EWG.

I found a rebranded Turbosmart twin-port internal wastegate actuator on eBay for a reasonable price so I scooped that up. Using it up in twin-port mode boost will actually be forcing it closed when the ECU switches over to 100% WGDC. Thus the EBC and EWG can have total control over the system.

Edit: I also programmed in the Finale Base Fueling memory address into BTSSM on the tablet. I did a lot of tuning work on the intake about a year ago, but now it looks like it's a bit off. With Meth off, the ECU was targeting ~11.0 but the AEM gauge showing 11.2. Looks Like I get to redo that mess once I redo the MAF connectors.

Yes they have the motors, I've looked into it, I really just hate re-pinning connectors...

I posted connectors pin breakout a while back in JDM folding mirrors thread. Not that hard really, and I do want to have them on my car as well (did it for my oldest son's 05 OB). Having a module to auto fold/open would be nice too!

Have to ask a question about Tribeca's ABS sensors here - this forum get 20x traffic and has 20x experience and expertise than Tribeca's forum. Plus setup is pretty much the same.

Few months ago had ABS CEL come up on wife's Tribeca (07 with 200K miles on it). IT came and went by itself so after reading some about the issue online I wrote it off to ABS sensors getting dirty from elements (12 years running). Had it at some point at the dealer for a recall and they diagnosed both rear sensors to be replaced but the adviser quietly told me that most likely they just need to be cleaned.

Car drives perfectly but I wanted to have it fixed cause driving without ABS and VDC on car this big is dangerous.

So this last weekend I proceed to put the car on stands and get at sensors. Rear are stuck to the knuckle so I move to fronts after spraying some PB blaster on rears.

What I found on fronts are worn ABS sensors, literally to the two conductors that lead to the sensor tip where the actual sensor is. I have never seen anything like that. Looks like the CV axle shield is too close to the knuckle and is rubbing on the sensor. This is the same on both sides. The worn part on the sensor is facing the CV axle, not the knuckle.

I took the CV axles out in 2016 when I pulled the engine for HG job. I torqued them back to spec when I put them back, and I do not understand how can the CV shields get that close to the knuckle to rub on the sensor. Can the shields move? Or can the CV axle be pulled that much deeper inside the knuckle if for example the axle nut was torqued beyond the spec? I looked at how much the axle sticks out from the nut and it looks normal.

Most importantly what is the fix now? I do not recall seeing any spacers or anything like that to go between wheel bearing and the axle.

Neither bearing is making any noise so I am scratching the back of my head right now thinking what;s my next move besides ordering some new ABS sensors.

Attaching some pics for reference. Will look at my Legacy's setup tonight but that still leaves me with the question on how to deal with Tribeca.

Here is right side sensor (left side is pretty much the same):

Sensor location on the left side (the other side is the same) - see how the CV axle shield is close to the knuckle?

That's what the shields typically look like (rear LGT axle, but fronts looks the same iirc):

This is how sensor is mounted to the knuckle - this is not my car, something from the internets:

Have to ask a question about Tribeca's ABS sensors here - this forum get 20x traffic and has 20x experience and expertise than Tribeca's forum. Plus setup is pretty much the same.

 

Few months ago had ABS CEL come up on wife's Tribeca (07 with 200K miles on it). IT came and went by itself so after reading some about the issue online I wrote it off to ABS sensors getting dirty from elements (12 years running). Had it at some point at the dealer for a recall and they diagnosed both rear sensors to be replaced but the adviser quietly told me that most likely they just need to be cleaned.

 

Car drives perfectly but I wanted to have it fixed cause driving without ABS and VDC on car this big is dangerous.

 

So this last weekend I proceed to put the car on stands and get at sensors. Rear are stuck to the knuckle so I move to fronts after spraying some PB blaster on rears.

 

What I found on fronts are worn ABS sensors, literally to the two conductors that lead to the sensor tip where the actual sensor is. I have never seen anything like that. Looks like the CV axle shield is too close to the knuckle and is rubbing on the sensor. This is the same on both sides. The worn part on the sensor is facing the CV axle, not the knuckle.

 

I took the CV axles out in 2016 when I pulled the engine for HG job. I torqued them back to spec when I put them back, and I do not understand how can the CV shields get that close to the knuckle to rub on the sensor. Can the shields move? Or can the CV axle be pulled that much deeper inside the knuckle if for example the axle nut was torqued beyond the spec? I looked at how much the axle sticks out from the nut and it looks normal.

 

Most importantly what is the fix now? I do not recall seeing any spacers or anything like that to go between wheel bearing and the axle.

Only thing I can think of is are the axles different/swapped? Maybe the left vs right is marginally different, which is putting the shield too close to the ABS sensor? I feel you would have noticed this when re-assembling, though. Especially with how much has rubbed off of the sensor, it's a very noticeable amount of interference.

Re: the double line-break thing... The forum's been doing that for a while for me. To get around it, you can use "shift-enter" when putting in line-breaks instead of a regular enter. It seems like it's using a paragraph break instead of a regular line break when you're in the WYSIWIG editor.

I posted connectors pin breakout a while back in JDM folding mirrors thread. Not that hard really, and I do want to have them on my car as well (did it for my oldest son's 05 OB). Having a module to auto fold/open would be nice too!

The pre facelift is different than the post facelift. I have yet to see anyone make the JDM pre facelift folding mirrors work propely on a USDM post facelift LGT.

Hopefully someone can prove me wrong.

Only thing I can think of is are the axles different/swapped? Maybe the left vs right is marginally different, which is putting the shield too close to the ABS sensor? I feel you would have noticed this when re-assembling, though. Especially with how much has rubbed off of the sensor, it's a very noticeable amount of interference.

 

Re: the double line-break thing... The forum's been doing that for a while for me. To get around it, you can use "shift-enter" when putting in line-breaks instead of a regular enter. It seems like it's using a paragraph break instead of a regular line break when you're in the WYSIWIG editor.

Upon much reading on internets as well as NASIOC/SubaruOutback.org wheel bearings may be the culprit. Left one has 205K miles on it, right one around 140K. They are quiet though, so not sure what and why. I ordered new front wheel bearings and ABS sensors for all 4 corners, at the cost lower than dealer quoted me for replacing just the rear sensors.

For double spacing I believe it only happens when I post from Linux/Android. I might be wrong since I have a mix of setups but this morning was posting from Ubuntu which is what I use at home most of time too.

The pre facelift is different than the post facelift. I have yet to see anyone make the JDM pre facelift folding mirrors work propely on a USDM post facelift LGT.

 

Hopefully someone can prove me wrong.

The USDM Tribeca folding mirrors diagram seemed to match JDM pre-face lift folding mirrors. I followed that to make everything work on 2005 OB. Post-facelift USDM vs pre-facelift USDM differences should be obvious from wiring diagrams, no?

Driving the wagon for 90 minutes straight over the weekend seems to have fixed a few issues. Seems like it needed to have the carbon blown out a bit.

School is paying off. Finally got to the course on AC. Using the wagon as my lab car, figured out why the ac doesn't work. There's a large leak in the condenser. For about 30 minutes, I had AC for the first time in 6 years. Tracking down the parts so I can have it for much longer.

Upon much reading on internets as well as NASIOC/SubaruOutback.org wheel bearings may be the culprit. Left one has 205K miles on it, right one around 140K. They are quiet though, so not sure what and why. I ordered new front wheel bearings and ABS sensors for all 4 corners, at the cost lower than dealer quoted me for replacing just the rear sensors.

I can tell you my front right wheel bearing went bad and had horrible grinding noises felt through the pedals and steering wheel. It was a Timken with less than 5k miles and had an alarming amount of play. While replacing it with an OEM NTN bearing I noticed my speed sensor was starting to have one of the sides scuffed like yours but not nearly as bad. It's strange you're not hearing any noises on your bearings but at 250k miles it makes sense they could be the culprit. Hope it works out for you.

For about 30 minutes, I had AC for the first time in 6 years. Tracking down the parts so I can have it for much longer.

Did the A/C condenser earlier this month. I used TYC #3314 from rockauto, comes with dessicant bag already installed, drops right in. Also pick up an O-ring kit. Refrigerant and oil bought locally at Pep Boys. Vac pump and manifold gauges from Harbor Freight.

R-134a cans seem to mostly have the Cali-approved self-sealing valves now, so make sure to pick up one of the $3 adapters that allow those new cans to work properly with a standard can tap.

The USDM Tribeca folding mirrors diagram seemed to match JDM pre-face lift folding mirrors. I followed that to make everything work on 2005 OB. Post-facelift USDM vs pre-facelift USDM differences should be obvious from wiring diagrams, no?

I haven't gotten that far. I've gone back and forth in my mind over which style i prefer. (Pre with grampus markers or post with either grampus or liberal winker)

I'll probably wire up my post facelift JDM folding mirrors and my Liberal winkers and call it a day.

Sent a big list of repairs/maintenance I'd like to have done to my wagon to a local performance shop. Holy cow it's expensive..

Anyone want to offer an opinion on labor rate for pulling a motor and - new turbo, turbo inlet, oil pan and pickup tube, valve covers, clutch, timing belt, new seals and hoses, and motor mounts?

Sent a big list of repairs/maintenance I'd like to have done to my wagon to a local performance shop. Holy cow it's expensive..

 

Anyone want to offer an opinion on labor rate for pulling a motor and - new turbo, turbo inlet, oil pan and pickup tube, valve covers, clutch, timing belt, new seals and hoses, and motor mounts?

Shop rate where I take my car is $120/hr

That looks like a lot of hours along with a fair amount of parts.

Sent a big list of repairs/maintenance I'd like to have done to my wagon to a local performance shop. Holy cow it's expensive..

 

Anyone want to offer an opinion on labor rate for pulling a motor and - new turbo, turbo inlet, oil pan and pickup tube, valve covers, clutch, timing belt, new seals and hoses, and motor mounts?

Which shop?

Shop rate where I take my car is $120/hr

 

That looks like a lot of hours along with a fair amount of parts.

Agreed, having just done something very similar to that in my driveway; that's a lot of hours.

Finally buttoned up Christine and took her for a spin. Reset memory 2 and tried the TCU relearn procedure, only to loose 4th gear. Got back home and did a little more troubleshooting (FSM is key.)

Result: I need a valve body. womp

Anyone have luck with used valve bodies?

Agreed, having just done something very similar to that in my driveway; that's a lot of hours.

Also having gone through this, $3-4,000 would seem a reasonable estimate (predicated on an $80-90/hr rate) , for everything - parts and labor.

BTW, change out all your coolant and vacuum lines, including the hard mount pieces and the gaskets on your coolant cross over pipe, and your oil cooler...would also replace the oil cooler if it's high mileage and unknown provenance.

Do the rear vapor barrier as well since the engine is out. Might as well do the pilot bearing in the flywheel too. Definitely replace the heater and radiator hoses, inclung everything to/from the turbo coolant tank.

Inspect your AC and your PS lines while it's apart and replace as necessary.

Cleaned and retensioned the MAF connector terminals. Used the same method covertrussian did here http:// https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/covertrussians-05-lgt-build-thread-218363p95.html but with a diamond tip terminal cleaning set. Then filled them with dielectric grease.

After that I attempted to remediate the Grimmspeed cold air intake heat soaking like crazy and not being exactly cold air. The aluminum tube heats up as it’s soaking in the hot air coming off the radiator, so the reflective tape heat shielding and fender well sealing I’ve done doesn’t do much. This is a reflective bubble wrap which will provide a real heat barrier.

Unsure how effective this will be, but in a short test the temp rise was lower.

Cleaned and retensioned the MAF connector terminals. Used the same method covertrussian did here http:// https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/covertrussians-05-lgt-build-thread-218363p95.html but with a diamond tip terminal cleaning set. Then filled them with dielectric grease.

 

I kind of hate being that guy, but Dielectric grease is no bueno for that purpose. Dielectric literally means non-conductive. I'd hit them with some QD Cleaner and use "Terminal grease" or "Ox guard" with much better conductive properties.

Finally buttoned up Christine and took her for a spin. Reset memory 2 and tried the TCU relearn procedure, only to loose 4th gear. Got back home and did a little more troubleshooting (FSM is key.)

 

Result: I need a valve body. womp

 

Anyone have luck with used valve bodies?

What kind of power you putting through it?

I kind of hate being that guy, but Dielectric grease is no bueno for that purpose. Dielectric literally means non-conductive. I'd hit them with some QD Cleaner and use "Terminal grease" or "Ox guard" with much better conductive properties.

 

You know, I've read something like that before, and it made me not want to use it on either ends of my spark plug wires. I don't know much about dielectric grease though, thoughts on using it on plugs/wires?

*I'm bored, so I went to google as well. This makes sense, just the ceramic part of the plug, or the part of the boot that touches the ceramic, not on the metal to metal points.