94 causing headache, bogging, bucking, pulsing.

Recently bought this awesome car, single owner, 150k miles. Really love this car.

 

So my car as of yesterday lost power at a stop sign. Did not cut out or anything, noticed CEL popped on so I pulled into a parking lot. The car was “pulsing” at idle. Basically up and down on the RPM, around the 1k mark. Made it home and spent the day testing things out.

 

When I start the car there is no CEL, but driving it up the road it pops on and the symptoms start, bogging at acceleration, stalling and also surging. When it stalls and I start it back up, CEL is off, then rinse and repeat.

 

I was looking on the forums here and tried the three easiest things I could find to do.

 

Replaced fuel filter

Replaced air filter

Cleaned MAF sensor.

 

No chance after that. Was looking for some guidance because this car is great and don’t want to see a bigger issue take it out. Thank you.

So this started suddenly rather than fading in over some time? Manual or auto?

 

What codes are you getting? When was the timing belt last done both in time and miles? You should be able to pull the outer timing covers and inspect visually. Be gentle putting them back, they are plastic.

This just happened completely out of nowhere yesterday. This is an automatic. I do not own a code reader unfortunately and am not a super genius when it comes to engine stuff.

Some auto parts stores will read the code for you for free. Then we can use the internet to look up whatever codes they find and try to figure out what could cause that list of codes. That is, if it runs good enough to go to a parts store...

 

If you are thinking of lightly getting into cars you can pick up the elm327 bluetooth thing to put in the code reader port and then get the torque android app to read and clear codes. The elm327 is under $10 on amazon so you would save that money back buying correct parts for your troubles instead of fishing blindly. That elm/torque setup can also read live engine data which would help us even more than codes.

 

But if you aren't planning to do your own work going forward, maybe it doesn't make sense for you to buy some tools.

Okay so little update here. Apparently from what I read on the forums I needed to read the flashing of the CEL in a diagnostic mode. I am getting 23, which would be the MAF. As I have already cleaned it, am I to assume it is bad?

Could be. Can you get a cheap one at a local junkyard? If they want reasonable money for one there you could maybe parts swap for cheap.

Another update, now throwing a code 22, knock sensor. I am ordering one now, trying the cheaper option first.

These codes indicate OBD I rather than OBD II. That is relevant in that the 2nd gen started in 94 for Japan and maybe EU, but it didn't reach the US market until 95. Hence the confusing labeling of this sub forum.

 

I'm happy to keep talking about it here, but it might help if you post in the 1st gen section as well.

 

With it giving multiple and different codes my first step would be to check and clean the connections at the battery, from the battery negative to body/frame, and the other grounds from engine and trans to chassis/frame. There will be a bunch of them and they should all get removed, cleaned with a wire brush, and put back. If they are corroded/loose they can cause all kinds of confusion for the computer.

 

I have a 2nd gen, so I'm afraid I can't be more specific about where they are located. If I remember right, mine has one from trans to firewall, from block to firewall, from intake manifold to strut tower. I've added several additional trans block and intake to strut tower.

 

Take the battery negative apart and leave it apart while you do the others and then put it back last. That way no weird ground loops or other strangeness should happen.

Edited September 18, 2020 by doublechaz

New knock sensor did the trick! Thank you for the advice!

Great news! Congrats on solving it.

Might have spoke too soon. After driving about 50 miles I stalled out, checked code and once again threw a MAF code.

How far did you make it checking for clean electrical connections? Comes and goes like this really sounds like wiring.

That is my plan for today. I was also lucky to find a MAF for 20 bucks on flea bay so that’s coming soon too.

Keep the old MAF if you can.

 

I now keep all my old parts for a while unless they are broken or definitely sending bad data. The questionable ones seem to be better than the new (China) parts.

Luckily I’m pretty sure this is an authentic original part, same exact labeling and everything so fingers crossed.