05 LGT 5spd EJ257 Type RA Build

Yeah. Keep us posted.

Yeah. Keep us posted.

 

I'll make sure to do so.

I had trouble priming as well. Was getting no reading on my oil pressure gauge while trying to prime my new motor. As mentioned above, the fix was to pull the oil filter and crank till oil comes out. (It doesn't take long) Then reinstall the oil filter. After that it built pressure no problem. Edited August 10, 2020 by DaveWaters

^That's true. Although in my case, I did try to prime it with the oil filter off from the start. And it still did not want to prime after several attempts. I started to slightly freak out as you can imagine . And definitely did not want to remove the timing belt, to get to the oil pump to add Vaseline or whatever. Then came the idea of trying to inject engine lube into the pump. So I tried and it worked. I was so relieved!

 

 

I can't exactly remember but I think I injected lube through the 'passenger side' oil passage of the pump.

So you just fill the engine with oil like you would normally and just use that pressure pump to run it through the engine?

 

Fill the pressure bleeder with plenty of oil. Connect it to the oil pressure sensor port right above the oil pump, and pump it up to around 20 psi; which is what you'd be at for a warm idle. I rotate the crank very slowly to make sure all the oil ports get fed, and put about 2-3 quarts through the system. Never had any issue on startup, you get pressure immediately.

Update!

 

Well I've started working on the car again. I've been collecting and installing parts here and there. I discovered that when you buy new rear timing belt covers they need these little small washers where the bolts go through. Needless to say I felt very stupid! I'm just glad I caught it before I had everything put together. While ordering those new washers, I went ahead and ordered the rear gaskets that are glued to the back timing covers.

 

Here's a pic of before I found I needed those dang washers:

 

 

While ordering those new washers and rear gaskets I decided to also order the IAG top feed TGV deletes, IAG V3 top feed fuel rails, Deatschwerks DWR1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator, Company23 Timing Belt Guide, GetaDomTune Cylinder 4 Chamber Cooling System, Pro Clip - Angled Dash Mount, a few fittings for my top feed line kit I'm putting together and just a random little hoses that need replacing.

 

 

 

 

New parts going on slowly:

 

 

 

The only few things left I need are a new clutch fork and pivot ball, ID 1050X injectors, an AEM 340LPH fuel pump, an Accessport, clutch, upgraded radiator and a tune. I'll be sanding down the engine bay this weekend to prep for new paint. I think the Safari Gold color from the Datsun 280z will pop. Pictures of the color are on page 4.

Yeah. I remember buying these little washers for the timing belt covers as well as the foam which you stick on the back of the covers. Honestly, I don't know why Subaru does not sell the covers with all of these things already.

 

 

Which upgraded radiator are you going to install?

Yeah. I remember buying these little washers for the timing belt covers as well as the foam which you stick on the back of the covers. Honestly, I don't know why Subaru does not sell the covers with all of these things already.

 

 

Which upgraded radiator are you going to install?

 

You know I thought the same thing. It's frustrating because I installed them thinking they were good to go lol.

 

I was thinking of running a mishimoto 2 row because if their warranty. I have their 3 row in my 240sx and it cools great. I've also thought of the koyo n-style rad, I'm not to sure. I do know I won't run the 3 row I've read some people have fitment issues.

I see. Will look this up. The stock set up is great as long as you do not consistently push the car into boost for long period of times. But if it's hot outside (100F+) and you need to stay close to 0-5 psi for, say, a minute, then cooling temp starts to climb. At least, that's what happens in my case (Southern Utah).

I see. Will look this up. The stock set up is great as long as you do not consistently push the car into boost for long period of times. But if it's hot outside (100F+) and you need to stay close to 0-5 psi for, say, a minute, then cooling temp starts to climb. At least, that's what happens in my case (Southern Utah).

 

I thought of picking up a stock STI radiator but I figured now is the time to upgrade. I live in Northern Nevada near Reno, so similar weather to Utah. Yea, definitely look into that because I was going to run the thicker radiator but for a daily and weekend canyon runs I think the 2 row will be fine.

Got up this morning and just hand tightened the new AVCS cam gears and exhaust cam gears. I also installed the GetaDomTune cylinder 4 cooling kit and new timing belt tensioner bracket on the engine. I should have the cam gears torqued down and the timing belt installed this week. I think I'll also start working on my engine bay and get it sanded down for the new paint. I have to get that done ASAP before it gets any colder. It's just been super smokey outside to work. There's a ton of fires going on right now.

 

 

 

Huh. I did not know the STI radiator was different than ours. But I will look into the one you are installing.

 

 

I have also installed the cylinder #4 mod as well. Also installed an AOS from Radium. Happy so far. I see you have the Grimspeed one.

Huh. I did not know the STI radiator was different than ours. But I will look into the one you are installing.

 

 

I have also installed the cylinder #4 mod as well. Also installed an AOS from Radium. Happy so far. I see you have the Grimspeed one.

 

I've read that the STI radiator was an upgrade. Maybe I'm assuming that. The car came with a Grimmspeed AOS but the paint is chipping off. I've thought of sanding it and throwing a coat of paint on it. I've thought about the IAG AOS system, just because the current one is an eye sore for me.

Update

 

Well I got the timing belt on and did the first step torque of 22.1 ft lbs for the cam gears. I still need to torque down the cam gears by degrees. So, I've been following another build watched videos on YouTube and followed those videos instructions to the tee. Well I got all of the timing stuff situated and lined up. But when I was turning the crank so the tensioner kicks in I noticed that my timing marks are off by a mil. I would say a hair. Then the timing marks on the belt won't line up to the marks on the cam gears like it did when I initially installed it. I guess I'm just worried about making sure this part of the build is done right. With all of the money I've spent I just want to do it right. So, I come to you guys for your guidance because this is my first Subaru and I had to do a rebuild right away. I'm second guessing myself. Any help or if I need to correct it please don't hesitate in responding.

 

Here's a pic of belt all lined up and matching all the marks on the cam gears.

 

 

Here's the pic after I turned the crank.

 

 

These are pics of the cam gears all lined up after turning the crank several times.

 

Driver's side AVCS:

 

Driver's side exhaust cam gear:

 

Crank gear:

 

Passenger side exhaust cam gear:

 

Passenger side AVCS:

 

Passenger side showing the double marks on the cam gears:

 

Driver's side showing the double marks on the cam gears:

 

Last shot of the engine timing belt after turning the crank another several times.

The lines on the belt won't line up unless you rotate everything a lot of times. IIRC my gear marks were off just like yours after engaging the tensioner. I think I turned the crank a little more and they lined up just about perfect.

 

Edited September 18, 2020 by DaveWaters

Don't worry about it; you're fine. I am surprised you're planning to do final torque on the cam gears after installing the belt. I don't know that it's wrong per say, but I've always done it before installing the belt.

yeah, you're fine. I can't remember which guy said it, but the double marks won't exactly line up due to the AVCS. In the end, I always check the number of teeth between the marks as per FSM. Check that and I bet it is fine.

The belt has a odd number of teeth so it hits the cam gears in a different position every time, to even out wear on the belt.

 

I think the service manual say's to rotate the crank a number of times, I think its 4 to check the timing marks. But that is also on a engine that has 105,000 miles on it.

Don't worry about it; you're fine. I am surprised you're planning to do final torque on the cam gears after installing the belt. I don't know that it's wrong per say, but I've always done it before installing the belt.

 

I've seen other videos that do it that way. I guess it's so the cam gears have another way of being held. Either way I'll have the wife hold the company 23 tools in place while I torque the cam gears to spec.

 

yeah, you're fine. I can't remember which guy said it, but the double marks won't exactly line up due to the AVCS. In the end, I always check the number of teeth between the marks as per FSM. Check that and I bet it is fine.

 

Yep everything lines up after turning the engine several times. I also posted on one of the Facebook groups and they also mentioned that it was fine.

 

The belt has a odd number of teeth so it hits the cam gears in a different position every time, to even out wear on the belt.

 

I think the service manual say's to rotate the crank a number of times, I think its 4 to check the timing marks. But that is also on a engine that has 105,000 miles on it.

 

That explains a lot. I'm just glad that I did it correctly.

 

I appreciate everyone's input! Thanks again everyone.

The lines on the belt won't line up unless you rotate everything a lot of times. IIRC my gear marks were off just like yours after engaging the tensioner. I think I turned the crank a little more and they lined up just about perfect.

 

 

Thank you sir. My timing was timed exactly as yours. Thanks for helping very reassuring.

Tiny Little Update:

 

Well I decided last minute to throw on my Company 23 Timing Belt Guide. I must say besides my experiences with their tools. Which I might add are very high quality and have made my life easier. Their timing belt guide is a quality piece. When I was taking apart my old engine I noticed that my car didn't have the timing belt guide. I decided to pick up this timing belt guide because it came with hardware and because it was Company 23. I'm not disappointed!

 

 

Did you set the correct gap on the belt guides on the upper corners ?

Did you set the correct gap on the belt guides on the upper corners ?

 

Not yet that's something I still need to do. Luckily, the timing belt guide came with the gapping tool.

Yeah. Setting up the gap correctly is very important.

Is your car a manual?

Yeah. Setting up the gap correctly is very important.

Is your car a manual?

 

I just used the gapping tool that came with my timing belt guide. I just set it today.