Stewdogg's 2010 GT

If there was a flow through AWIC it would work really well in our stock tmic location. The same side in and out would be an odd mounting.

They do have this one that feeds the air to and from opposite sides, but would require a bit of fabbing to get it to fit, I'm sure.

 

http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/liquid_air-p-204.html

Yeah so you would need a pump, radiator hose, the radiator/heat exchanger, and the AWIC. You'd have to fab up the charge pipe, as well as mounting solutions for the AWIC and heat exchanger. I have thought about it some, but I didn't specifically price it up. You would need to wire in the pump to run all the time that the car is on. If the radiator got good enough flow - such as by taking up the entire lower opening of the bumper - then you might not really need ducting or puller fans.

For timing belts kits.

 

The water pump is only available through OEM and Gates, I don't trust Gates anymore.

 

sixstarbernie sell timing kits and it seem like they are sourcing all oem parts. Someone here recommend them to me, but I had already bought my timing belt components already. I was going to try them out on my next timing belt. My Outback has one of their kits in it from just before I bought it.

 

If I was going with another brand, I would do the Contitech (which is continental) or AC Delco.

Edited March 26, 2019 by dgoodhue

I would bet you can get frozenboost to make you a kit with that intercooler core, same as their other kits. My biggest issue is where to mount the water tank at? Maybe move the battery to the trunk and put the tank in that location. I wouldn't be comfortable having the tank reservoir in my trunk.

 

But I am going to seriously look into the AWIC I think for the weather here it would be well worth looking at.

For timing belts kits.

 

The water pump is only available through OEM and Gates, I don't trust Gates anymore.

 

sixstarbernie sell timing kits and it seem like they are sourcing all oem parts. Someone here recommend them to me, but I had already bought my timing belt components already. I was going to try them out on my next timing belt. My Outback has one of their kits in it from just before I bought it.

 

If I was going with another brand, I would do the Contitech (which is continental) or AC Delco.

 

Thanks!! I will check out the sixstarbernie.

It's really tough verifying if parts are actually for this car and not the fourth gen because they lump the 2010's into the fourth gen parts a lot.

 

I would bet you can get frozenboost to make you a kit with that intercooler core, same as their other kits. My biggest issue is where to mount the water tank at? Maybe move the battery to the trunk and put the tank in that location. I wouldn't be comfortable having the tank reservoir in my trunk.

 

But I am going to seriously look into the AWIC I think for the weather here it would be well worth looking at.

 

Looks like their kits are categorized via HP. They have a 350/600/1200HP kit and then you pick your parts to complete the kit to your needs/wants.

 

Seems to be a cheaper option over a better stage 2 TMIC and the same if not cheaper than a new FMIC.

Thanks!! I will check out the sixstarbernie.

It's really tough verifying if parts are actually for this car and not the fourth gen because they lump the 2010's into the fourth gen parts a lot.

 

Even though 5th Gen's have Dual AVCS and 4th Gens have the single AVCS, the only difference between the 4th and 5th Gen timing belt kits is the water pump (which is unique to the 5th Gen GT)

Alright, I have decided to go with the Fel Pro MLS head gasket kit. I was thinking the sixstarbernie ones, but with go with the traditional Fel Pro's.

 

Now to pick a timing belt kit. I will be getting the OEM Subaru water pump.

Six star Bernie has two different timing belt kits for our cars. they are about $100 different in price and the only difference I can see is the different timing belts between the kits.

 

https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179145-subaru-oem-timing-belt-kit-impreza-wrx-forester-xt-sti-legacy-gt-outback-xt-00-18.html?ref=category:1171146

 

https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179144-subaru-timing-belt-kit-dohc-turbo-2000-2018-wrx-impreza-sti-forester-xt-legacy-gt-outback-turbo-oem-made-in-japan.html?ref=category:1171146

 

For OEM both the LGT and STi (at least for 2010 LGT and 2011 STi) share the same part numbers for the timing belt. On Bernie's site it says the more expensive kit has a STi spec timing belt... what does that mean and is it worth it in my build?

The standard OEM belt will be fine, don't overthink it. The belts rarely fail, the tensioner is usually the weak point.

Thanks man!

I was thinking the same thing. Just making sure someone around here didn't know something I didn't.

 

Don't over think it... haha, I was planning on having a bunch of time to figure out what kind of build I want, but have rather been forced to decide everything right away. I haven't even had the car for a year. I have been overthinking everything.

The standard OEM belt will be fine, don't overthink it. The belts rarely fail, the tensioner is usually the weak point.

 

Agreed, you're not going to spinning the engine 8000, 9000 rpm which is probably what the STI belt is designed for. I believe Mitsuboshi is the OEM manufacturer of the 5th Gen timing belt as well.

Thanks, it's good to have a little reassurance with all this stuff that I wish to only do once.

 

On another note, I got this yesterday. The parts are starting to trickle in.

The trickle got a little faster today.

I finally got back after it today.

 

I installed my sway bar even though I didn't get my bushings yet. I will be able to put those in whenever they come, even if it's after the engine is back in.

 

I also dealt with the rust on the bottom part of the sub frame. Lots of sanding, wire wheel action and rust dust for me today. I then brush painted on some tractor/implement paint on it to seal it up. I have some before pics here and will get some finished pics next week after I finish the top section and get a second coat on.

 

I hope my short block and turbo show up next week, so I can get this beast started!

Yeah that makes me a little glad to live in Florida. Lol.

 

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Yeah that makes me a little glad to live in Florida. Lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Rust is a bitch, but I hope this buys me a little more time with my GT.

I should have come down by you to buy this one.

 

That would be my "little glad" to live in Florida too.

I got the TGV's off the intake today. I removed the butterflies, motor and shaft. I will cut the dividers tomorrow after work and clean them up, then tap the rod holes to seal them up. I get to put it back together with my ID1050x injectors!

Getting there little by little.

I got the TGV's cut and ground tonight. I just need to clean up the outside and plug up the shaft holes.

 

I called Quantum Performance about my short block again today and they told me a "tentative" timeline of next week Friday. I know it's the busy season, but I paid good money for my block too. I hope I lit a little fire today.

I talked to Bryan today from BNR and my turbo is pushed off till next week... hopefully.

I keep hoping the next weekend is the weekend I get to put my car back together.

 

I got my TGV's deleted and buttoned up.

The first pic shows the bearing, spacer and bushings (sitting on the towel) you have to remove from the ends of the housing before you can tap them with threads.

 

The other two show the hex cap bolts and spacer set up I used. I made a cap for the motor side to hold some fender washers against the bolt as a safety measure, so the bolts can't back out at all. I used washers on both sides and they come out flush with the housing, so the caps fit perfect. I know it's overkill, but I won't have to wonder if the bolts backed out at all, if I ever have an air leak I'm searching for.

I also wrapped the bolts in thread tape to prevent leaks.

Does anyone know what the usable space is between the intake and firewall, where the intercooler sits?

I'm thinking this might be my best option for an AWIC set up, with the least amount of bends in the piping... http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-214.html

 

Wondering if I have the space to fit it with the water inlets facing north and south? I will use some 90 degree bends for the water supply. I'm going to try and get most of the parts ordered tomorrow and I don't have my car here to check these things myself.

Edited April 22, 2019 by stewdogg

Anyone do me a solid and measure that distance between the intake and fire wall or whatever is in the way of the fire wall?

I measured a cardboard mock up and fit it to the 2007 legacy I have in the driveway, but that doesn't do me much good and I'm trying to get the order in ASAP.

 

One version I will have to snake the cold side pipe to the intake and the other option makes the water inlet/outlet tight for space.

They both measure about 12" long and wide, but need different amount of space depending on where the inlet and outlet are for the air/water.

 

Thanks!

My car is just outside and I have a tape measure, but I'm not sure that I understand what measurements you need. I'm going to go get some right now, but give me some more detail.

So between the stuff on the firewall and the intake manifold on the driver's side it's about 11 inches. Between the center of the intake manifold and the firewall is a little over 12 inches. You have about 16 inched before you'd hit the hoses and whatnot over by where the stock charge pipe routes. You could fit something about five inches thick with ease, but it looks like 6 inches thick is doable.

 

For something like this, I think mocking up a model out of cardboard would be the best possible option, because it's hard to be sure that a corner won't foul something making it all impossible.

Thanks man, that's what I was looking for. The original idea with the intercooler standing on end wouldn't work in that space. https://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-214.html

 

I ordered the intercooler that enters and exits on opposite sides. https://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/liquid_air-p-204.html

I'm thinking that I can make that one work one way or another.

 

I found my cold side pipe was in ridiculous shape when I took it off and another great example of mechanical work by the previous owner. It must have been put on all mangled because the creases are ripped and dry rotted. I have a hard time figuring out how it found a seal.

those rubber flaps on the OEM TB coupler are known to fail. Some have taken em out all together or bought an aftermarket coupler