What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

He's still alive.

 

The mods have stepped up to pick up the slack.

I texted Dale and recieved a reply today...

"Hey brother. Thanks so much for the check-in

Doing better, improving daily. Hope to be at full power turnup capable by new year.

You all have a wonderful Thanksgiving as well. Our best to you all."

Makes me feel much better knowing he is ok. Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!

Awhile back I picked up a high mileage 5mt. The tag on it says "failed". Not a lot of help. Today I pulled it apart. The center diff is failed alright, the snap ring had been broken and twisted into diff. The wave spring had been converted into mostly paste. The needle bearing was gouged badly.

Transmission looks in pretty good shape. Still have to pull the gears off and check the blocking rings. Hoping just a seals and bearings kit is all that's needed to fix.

60 psi and 60% leakdown in cylinder 4, all blowing into the crankcase. So much for Type RA block. Running on E85, no warning indicators of any kind. Had just ported to Merpmod, but still running Cryo's timing, boost and fueling targets and verified everything was the same as the standalone E85 map he put together for me, so very likely not the tune. Car showed 345 whp/ 382 wtq on VirtualDyno last time I read in a log, so well within the capabilities of the RA block according to them there internets. 35k miles with no cylinder 4 cooling mod on this one.

Let's see if the bore looks OK and I can get away with a piston and rings...

Wonder what the inside of that diff looks like - cooked black and nasty? I split the one out of scruit's car after it was towed by the front wheels and it was pitch black.

Yeah it was black. The metal flakes had settled in to corners. The transmission was relatively clear.

60 psi and 60% leakdown in cylinder 4, all blowing into the crankcase. So much for Type RA block. Running on E85, no warning indicators of any kind. Had just ported to Merpmod, but still running Cryo's timing, boost and fueling targets and verified everything was the same as the standalone E85 map he put together for me, so very likely not the tune. Car showed 345 whp/ 382 wtq on VirtualDyno last time I read in a log, so well within the capabilities of the RA block according to them there internets. 35k miles with no cylinder 4 cooling mod on this one.

 

Let's see if the bore looks OK and I can get away with a piston and rings...

Oof. If it is and you want a hand let me know. I've been interested in learning what doing the pistons takes. Unless you're just going for quick turn around.

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Oof. If it is and you want a hand let me know. I've been interested in learning what doing the pistons takes. Unless you're just going for quick turn around.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Appreciate it, you're more than welcome to come by. I'm going for quicl turnaround but parts will pace me. Head will come off today and then I'll probably have to sit a week or more waiting for stuff.

Swapped the GS LWCP for the Fluidampr yesterday. Modification to the timing cover was quick and easy. Today I'm going to clean up the engine a bit before putting the radiator back in with some new OEM hoses. The Mishimoto hoses have this powdery residue that I just cannot clean off - it almost looks like a porosity issue? The lower hose is especially bad. There was a similar residue on some of the other OEM coolant hoses, but those cleaned up with some hot soapy water and a magic eraser.

Going to swap out my Group.N crossmember bushings for new stock ones while I'm under there. Seems like they sent the NVH way up without a real discernible improvement.

Edit: fingers crossed for you awfulwaffle... that’s never fun.

60 psi and 60% leakdown in cylinder 4, all blowing into the crankcase. So much for Type RA block. Running on E85, no warning indicators of any kind. Had just ported to Merpmod, but still running Cryo's timing, boost and fueling targets and verified everything was the same as the standalone E85 map he put together for me, so very likely not the tune. Car showed 345 whp/ 382 wtq on VirtualDyno last time I read in a log, so well within the capabilities of the RA block according to them there internets. 35k miles with no cylinder 4 cooling mod on this one.

 

Let's see if the bore looks OK and I can get away with a piston and rings...

After 2 months of sticking my foot up subaru's ass for these rusty brake lines and junction, they agreed to pay 100% of the parts and labor. Victory is Mine! Also got my tuner to give me a Valet map so I can keep it on E85 with a 3600rpm limit. Hopefully they don't screw anything else up...

Good to hear they are stepping up...finally Good Job

Just put my winter boots on Sunday and was waiting for this to come along!!

Hakka 9's on STI V7. What is your setup...unless you're down south, lol.

Great Montreal, Canada winters!! Swedish flick here I come!!

That's too bad. I wonder if you had some issue with fuel dilution or sticky injector in that cylinder when switching to e85? Since that's the only change it's a potential culprit. Did you notice anything when changing your oil? At least pistons are the "easy" thing to pop out and change on the ej platform.

Bore looks great, haven't popped the piston yet but given that I'd never seen a drop of oil in the intercooler until this time when it was completely drenched, I assume that as soon as I pull it out I'll get a chunk of bottom ring land in my hand. Need to check roundness before making the call, but it seems that the block may be OK. The other three cylinders were dead even in compression and all had 2-4% leakdown.

I'd been running E85 for about 15k, so it's not exactly a recent change. Oil was fine last interval, no obvious 'I'm full of fuel' smell, though I'm on a 1500 mile OCI on E85. When I made the switch, went to brand new ID1050X injectors too. That said..... you may have hit the nail on the head with an injector issue. #4 intake valves look like they were run hotter than any I've ever seen... Makes me wonder if that injector failed and leaned the cylinder out.

Head will go to the shop to get checked and all valves in that cylinder replaced, injectors will be going to ID for test. If one comes back bad, I wonder what ID might be willing to do given it almost nuked a 35k mile motor.

Bore looks great, haven't popped the piston yet but given that I'd never seen a drop of oil in the intercooler until this time when it was completely drenched, I assume that as soon as I pull it out I'll get a chunk of bottom ring land in my hand. Need to check roundness before making the call, but it seems that the block may be OK. The other three cylinders were dead even in compression and all had 2-4% leakdown.

 

I'd been running E85 for about 15k, so it's not exactly a recent change. Oil was fine last interval, no obvious 'I'm full of fuel' smell, though I'm on a 1500 mile OCI on E85. When I made the switch, went to brand new ID1050X injectors too. That said..... you may have hit the nail on the head with an injector issue. #4 intake valves look like they were run hotter than any I've ever seen... Makes me wonder if that injector failed and leaned the cylinder out.

 

Head will go to the shop to get checked and all valves in that cylinder replaced, injectors will be going to ID for test. If one comes back bad, I wonder what ID might be willing to do given it almost nuked a 35k mile motor.

I'm currently at 34k on my RA block that I did two years ago. Fortunately e85 isn't really viable in WA state or else I'd be there. It's funny because today I was driving and thought to myself that it'd be nice to have a bigger turbo. I think I'll stick with my VF52 with billett compressor wheel.

New OEM hoses went in to replace the mishimotos. Had to cut the ends of the upper hose to get it to fit without hitting the fan shroud, plus a little relief on the shroud itself for extra clearance (the pic angle makes it look tighter than it is).

Trying to clean this spot off my boost control solenoid (powdercoated)... it could only be dried car wash soap(?) or coolant, but it won't come off with any of the more gentle cleaners I've tried so far. Not sure what to try next... MAF cleaner, acetone, etc...

Let's hope it was an injector and ID can verify it. I doubt they'll help with cost of anything but maybe they'll give a new injector if one is bad although it doesn't hurt to ask. How much boost and what turbo was your e85 tune at? I'm guessing it couldn't be too high on 1050 injectors.

 

I'm currently at 34k on my RA block that I did two years ago. Fortunately e85 isn't really viable in WA state or else I'd be there. It's funny because today I was driving and thought to myself that it'd be nice to have a bigger turbo. I think I'll stick with my VF52 with billett compressor wheel.

It's definitely nothing crazy - just a BNR big 16G, running 21-22 psi. The 1000s are still around 75% duty on E85.

I've seen reports on NASIOC of folks pushing much more through these blocks, though longevity is a question. Guess we'll learn in realtime.

On a related note, bore gauges worth buying are stupid expensive. Whoda figured....

New OEM hoses went in to replace the mishimotos. Had to cut the ends of the upper hose to get it to fit without hitting the fan shroud, plus a little relief on the shroud itself for extra clearance (the pic angle makes it look tighter than it is).

 

Trying to clean this spot off my boost control solenoid (powdercoated)... it could only be dried car wash soap(?) or coolant, but it won't come off with any of the more gentle cleaners I've tried so far. Not sure what to try next... MAF cleaner, acetone, etc...

brake clean ftw

It's definitely nothing crazy - just a BNR big 16G, running 21-22 psi. The 1000s are still around 75% duty on E85.

 

I've seen reports on NASIOC of folks pushing much more through these blocks, though longevity is a question. Guess we'll learn in realtime.

 

On a related note, bore gauges worth buying are stupid expensive. Whoda figured....

I priced them out with my student discount. Holy sticker shock!

Awhile back I picked up a high mileage 5mt. The tag on it says "failed". Not a lot of help. Today I pulled it apart. The center diff is failed alright, the snap ring had been broken and twisted into diff. The wave spring had been converted into mostly paste. The needle bearing was gouged badly.

 

Transmission looks in pretty good shape. Still have to pull the gears off and check the blocking rings. Hoping just a seals and bearings kit is all that's needed to fix.

took apart the center diff because "not rebuildable". Viscous coupling is bad The silicone fluid is black as tar and smells awful (garage still smelled 8 hours later). The disks were almost solid, had to use a chisel to pry them apart.

On the plus side, the transmission gears & synchros look really good. Hard to believe it's had 209k miles

brake clean ftw

Yeah I just don’t want to remove the powder coating entirely.

I priced them out with my student discount. Holy sticker shock!

Right? Makes ya appreciate how much is really tied up in a proper machine shop. I knew good inspection equipment was pricy but hot damn. Pretty sure the sets I've seen at work are worth as much as my car.

I do have a nice Mitutoyo 3-4 mic - let's see how repeatable a set of T gages is - at least those are more affordable.

took apart the center diff because "not rebuildable". Viscous coupling is bad The silicone fluid is black as tar and smells awful (garage still smelled 8 hours later). The disks were almost solid, had to use a chisel to pry them apart.

 

On the plus side, the transmission gears & synchros look really good. Hard to believe it's had 209k miles

That sounds just like scruit's diff! Aside from it being a pain to get apart, I really wonder what makes them non-serviceable. Maybe it has something to do with getting the disk stack right?