What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Nope.. I didn't even know that was a thing. I'll have a look..

Here's what I made up,

My wagon is permitted for the road again too, first time since idek when in 2019. Washed and drove it all day.

Immediate needs are to:

Cut out the rear control arms and replace with something adjustable, and alignment

Replace the manifold and UP, which I pulled OEM parts from my extra motor

And started tearing down the specB motor a bit. Got the intake manifold, turbo and timing cover off last night. All the timing bits and valve covers this week I'm hoping.

That's the cylinder that had all my misfires. Is the valve supposed to open like that?

That's the cylinder that had all my misfires. Is the valve supposed to open like that?

Define "like that?" Unless the motor's somewhere in the compression or power stroke, then it's possible the valve would be open like that. Real easy to check since you have the belt/covers still on: just turn the crank (I typically just use the crank bolt with the 22mm socket) until it gets easy to turn, at which point all of the valves should be closed.

Did not do this today but on friday last week, my car has been slowly getting louder and had a friend toss it up on the lift. Found a few fun things, one of the previous owners replaced the stock exhaust with a 3inch from the cat all the way to the mufflers, bolted the stock mufflers on and tossed in a resonator in the mid pipe. Found the resonator was rotting out revealing the suby sound. Unfortunately, my yearly inspection was due and I knew I was not going to pass so I took it up to an exhaust shop my buddy recommended since he didn't have piping to weld in the shop (he works in a Lexus shop), at the exhaust shop, they quickly welded in another 3" piece after cutting out the resonator. In and out in under an hour as a walk-in with 2 cars in front of me. Got the exhaust work done, inspection sticker slapped on and a full tank of gas for under $180. Productive day, though now I am missing the rumble but on the plus side this moves my thinking of buying a full catback kit to just an axel back kit. I just have to do my youtube research and see if the new noise amount is passable yearly. Might just need to keep the stock exhause on stand-by if I dont want to chance it

Scotty

So.... Here I am considering the crazy idea of selling the Spec B and moving on. I absolutely love driving the car and have zero issues with it but for one thing; the ever more stringent Kamifornia smog laws.

I have no clue how to price the car either. It has over 30k in improvements and no, I'm not naïve enough to believe I can recoup all of that but I also don't want to "give" the car away.

Decisions, decisions....

So.... Here I am considering the crazy idea of selling the Spec B and moving on. I absolutely love driving the car and have zero issues with it but for one thing; the ever more stringent Kamifornia smog laws.

 

I have no clue how to price the car either. It has over 30k in improvements and no, I'm not naïve enough to believe I can recoup all of that but I also don't want to "give" the car away.

 

Decisions, decisions....

Sell it through the forums I'd think if you want any chance at someone understanding what you've done to the car. Post it here and nasioc at a price you're OK with and just hang on to it until you get a hit since you're in no hurry to sell it.

Also probably look to the forums to see what people are pricing things at.

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Keep the Spec B, move away from California.

I have given this serious consideration, I have family in Florida, Maryland, Arizona and Louisiana. So far Florida leads the race.

Push comes to shove I might actually ship the car out to Florida, put it into my dads name and use it when I go visit. That would be a shame though since it would only get driven maybe three times a year

Sell it through the forums I'd think if you want any chance at someone understanding what you've done to the car. Post it here and nasioc at a price you're OK with and just hang on to it until you get a hit since you're in no hurry to sell it.

 

Also probably look to the forums to see what people are pricing things at.

 

 

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I’ve considered this a time or two but the financial bit would be huge and I know I would end up regretting it. I’d love to have something a bit more .....less rattly? But I know I would never be as proud of the replacement as I am of my leggy. It’s unique and mine and it’s super clean for its age blah blah blah.

What’s your “number”? $18k, $22k...? My investment is in your ballpark. I’m around $35k over the cost of the car, which I bought new in 2009. I honestly can’t put a number on my car. I’ve said $25k....which is absurd and will never be taken seriously. It’d still be a huge loss too. But even at that price, what do you do? Dump that into a new platform and start from scratch? Down payment on something else?

I’ve considered this a time or two but the financial bit would be huge and I know I would end up regretting it. I’d love to have something a bit more .....less rattly? But I know I would never be as proud of the replacement as I am of my leggy. It’s unique and mine and it’s super clean for its age blah blah blah.

 

What’s your “number”? $18k, $22k...? My investment is in your ballpark. I’m around $35k over the cost of the car, which I bought new in 2009. I honestly can’t put a number on my car. I’ve said $25k....which is absurd and will never be taken seriously. It’d still be a huge loss too. But even at that price, what do you do? Dump that into a new platform and start from scratch? Down payment on something else?

This ^

I'd love to dump my collection and get a brz. But Ive to have a truck to haul anything. I looked, briefly, at the new audi rs5 wagon. I can fix the wagon alit of times for that kind of money

I’ve considered this a time or two but the financial bit would be huge and I know I would end up regretting it. I’d love to have something a bit more .....less rattly? But I know I would never be as proud of the replacement as I am of my leggy. It’s unique and mine and it’s super clean for its age blah blah blah.

 

What’s your “number”? $18k, $22k...? My investment is in your ballpark. I’m around $35k over the cost of the car, which I bought new in 2009. I honestly can’t put a number on my car. I’ve said $25k....which is absurd and will never be taken seriously. It’d still be a huge loss too. But even at that price, what do you do? Dump that into a new platform and start from scratch? Down payment on something else?

You have described my situation down to a T. California has been working towards destroying our industry/hobby for over two decades now and I'd argue they are within grasp of their goal. At this point I would be better off buying a car that already sits at over 350 whp from factory and focus exclusively on suspension mods and wheels. Otherwise if I'm to remain in California and continue to enjoy my hobby I'll have to start projects based on vehicles from 1994 and below.

I've just been enjoying driving my old LGT. Last weekend I finished the install of my inferno fabrications 4-1 EL header that is coated with cerakote and a new cobb uppipe with uppipe blanket. These replaced my agency power 4-2-1 EL header and broken oem catless uppipe. Fitment was amazing. The header quality is really nice. I can't really tell a significant difference between the Agency power 4-2-1 EL header and this one though. I still hit 4.5-4.6 volts on maf. (grimmspeed) and 3.2-3.3 g/rev on load. Boost is basically 18 psi down to 16 psi at redline (vf52 with billet compressor wheel).

Oh, one other item I installed lately is a toyota exhaust mass damper on my nameless catback. It really does reduce some vibrational noise at the 3k rpm range. All of my exhaust mounts are urethane so that probably makes the vibration worse than oem rubber.

replacing #4 injector on an engine with brittle breather hoses. got the injector out and heard a metallic tinkle of something dropping. The injector retainer is missing. Not on the floor, not visible in the engine compartment.

I hesitate to say Hicksta, but I'm probably cannibalizing another engine to get a replacement.

replacing #4 injector on an engine with brittle breather hoses. got the injector out and heard a metallic tinkle of something dropping. The injector retainer is missing. Not on the floor, not visible in the engine compartment.

 

I hesitate to say Hicksta, but I'm probably cannibalizing another engine to get a replacement.

Done that before, managed to find it with a nice flashlight and a magnet on a stick.

You have described my situation down to a T. California has been working towards destroying our industry/hobby for over two decades now and I'd argue they are within grasp of their goal. At this point I would be better off buying a car that already sits at over 350 whp from factory and focus exclusively on suspension mods and wheels. Otherwise if I'm to remain in California and continue to enjoy my hobby I'll have to start projects based on vehicles from 1994 and below.

I've recently moved from MD to CA. Yes, the smog rules are ridiculous. What I've done is put the stock downpipe back on, and just made sure all the mods look stock under the hood: VF52 instead of an aftermarket turbo, bulletproof mod on the intercooler, black unbranded turbo inlet hose, K&N drop-in filter, serviced stock injectors, stock STi fuel pump, and a tune. It all fits under the stock engine cover. It's not a lot of power, but that's about all we can get away with in this state:

I have given this serious consideration, I have family in Florida, Maryland, Arizona and Louisiana. So far Florida leads the race.

 

Push comes to shove I might actually ship the car out to Florida, put it into my dads name and use it when I go visit. That would be a shame though since it would only get driven maybe three times a year

register it in Florida at your dad's address. They don't do inspections. Drive it in CA. Live a happy life.

Some goodies showed up today. I ordered the sway bars in August not really realizing it would take a month and a half to arrive. Oh well, at least I have them for next season. Probably will get them on this week.

Got all this on a couple weeks ago, and I think I finally chased down the last clunk yesterday. One of the front endlink jam nuts wasn't tightened enough.

In the end, it was nice to save money with the full Whiteline kit (tire rack was selling it for $450). But their adjustable endlinks are a pain in the ass, something I should have learned/remembered from my BRZ. Doing it over I probably would just get the bars separately, and do Kartboy endlinks. It probably all would have arrived before the end of my autox season, too.

Finally got the wagon running. Sort of... Discovered that my turbo oil drain line wasn't fully seated (wife not happy about the driveway,) and the DP to mid gasket is leaking.

Spent an excessive amount of time getting the drain line clamped properly, then tightened up the DP connection, now it won't start. Tested battery and starter, both good. Signal wire to starter is good. All grounds good. Tried with a jump box jic it needed a boost to crank. I hear rapid clicking when I turn to key on engine off. Sounds like coming from the throttle body. If I try to crank it I get one half crank then it sounds like the engine locks. I can turn the engine over via the crank pulley, so that should mean engine isn't seized, right?

Going to pull the plugs tomorrow, but I'm kinda lost on what to check next.

Just have to ask, the battery terminals are clean and tight ?

IMO you might want to start your onw thread so its easier to follow this problem.

Just have to ask, the battery terminals are clean and tight ?

 

IMO you might want to start your onw thread so its easier to follow this problem.

Battery terminals clean and tight. (Had spent some time on the forum looking for similar posts and noticed you giving this advice multiple times. So, that was the first thing I checked. thanks btw)

New thread started to document the process.