What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

It was originally Infamous tuned.

I've made some minor adjustments since.

Car has 202k on it now, 50k of that is me.

Stage 2+ for most of it.

Clutch is at 75k and needs replacing.

 

So I'm at a cross-roads.

Do I go find a clutch and keep going for a while.

Or do I grab a much lower miles wagon and swap in Engine/Tranny and full interior.

I plan to retune with someone at the point I either switch or rebuild engines, I would like to add DW740s to give it a little breathing room.

New FPR seemed to stabilize fueling somewhat. I'm getting about -0.78% to +5.85% A/F Learning which seems like a nice tight gap for long term trims. Still odd I'm getting a fair amount of positive A/F Correction right before getting into boost regardless of gear. Curious if this is just JR adding extra fuel before getting into boost to avoid knock - I recall reading this is common practice for tuners (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)

Or do I grab a much lower miles wagon and swap in Engine/Tranny and full interior.

I plan to retune with someone at the point I either switch or rebuild engines, I would like to add DW740s to give it a little breathing room.

 

You might have a hard time there unless it's a NA, has a blown engine, or maybe an '09 OBXT. There arent many of these left out there.

 

As cheap and appealing as the DW740 swap is, skip it and do something EV14 based. They are so much better injectors and easier to tune.

 

If you're on stock 200K injectors, you may need to have them cleaned.

 

Also on plugs, consider the NGK SILFR6B8 from the later model cars. Same price as our normal ones, theoretically slightly better performance from a cleaner/faster flame front. Marketing material from NKG for the aftermarket equivalent below:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=248718&d=1493920657

Edited July 5, 2019 by utc_pyro

As much as I love the look of my Work Emotion CR Kiwamis, coming from using TE37s for winter duties it was pretty drastic how much sluggish the car feels with the extra weight. Found a set of CE28RT Black Edition wheels in 18x9.5 et40 locally so pretty excited to see the difference they'll make!

 

 

I noticed this even going from stock 17s to ADVAN RCII 18x8.5 +45 carrying meaty 235/40 MPS AS3es. Acceleration was much, much more pronounced, and braking/stopping was positively affected too, even with the longer lever arm differences.

Took the car camping. Thanks to the weight distributing hitch system all went well.

 

 

 

 

 

No, I didn't tow with the LGT. That's Cummins duty.

 

 

 

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Filled it with gas today. Also did my first oil inspection since buying the car. After driving 1000 km I am happy to say that it burned no oil. Very happy about this as I was not light with my right food the past 1000 km.

Went to a LKQ for the first time today. Both outbacks they had were complete trashed so I didn’t get much, but I did manage to grab a few clips and things I needed.

 

Over the last three days my car has started to seriously pull fuel. As in I’m -12% across the A, B, and C ranges. Watching trims while driving it gets up to the 20’s or as low as zero net pulled though. Fuel pressure looks fine idling (34 psi), and the meth system isn’t showing flow when it shouldn’t, so I’m stumped on what could cause it to go negative like this. An air leak should cause the trims to go positive. A bad O2 sensor would show up as a delta between the OEM and AEM sensor.

 

Only changes in the last few days were installing the new boost controller on the EWG, and adding some MMT based octane booster for additional knock margin while tuning it.

Edited July 8, 2019 by utc_pyro

Try adding some more MMT octane booster and see what happens.

 

IMO adding it before a tune was not a good idea...(?) IMO you want the car tuned with everything the way you normally drive it.

 

Did the Tuner know you added the MMT ?

Did the Tuner know you added the MMT ?

 

Yes, I know I added MMT?

 

Best theory I have right now is something up with the MAF sensor to cause a consistent(ish) offset. Sensor fowling, filter getting knocked out of orientation, or electrical. Everything else I can think of would cause it to read lean.

Yes, I know I added MMT?

 

Best theory I have right now is something up with the MAF sensor to cause a consistent(ish) offset. Sensor fowling, filter getting knocked out of orientation, or electrical. Everything else I can think of would cause it to read lean.

This will be long. Summary:

Maf shielded to non-shielded signal wire connection? Maf grounds are compromised at the ecu so the maf is grounding itself out?

 

I have had the same issue happen twice with my maf. It will pull max fuel and cause misfires. It has only happened when my grimmspeed air intake is installed (intake and scaling is NOT the cause). When I reinstall my stock intake the issue goes away.

 

I think the maf grounds via ecu were suspect (now cleaned) and the maf was grounding out via the air intake or the shielded signal wire needs to be repaired at the shielded to nom shielded connection. On the grimmspeed the signal wire gets quite bent once installed.

Presuming I don't find something physically wrong, that would be my guess. I had to readjust the turbo inlet when doing the EWG plumbing which necessitated moving the Grimmspeed intake a little. If the wiring is starting to go, that slight movment may have caused an issue.

 

Covertrussian had similar issues when doing inlet testing where he though the had to rescale the MAF, which 100% should not be needing for changes upstream of it. Subaru kind of cheaps out on there wires that have lots of movment (see wagon hatch issues).

 

So if the MAF ground went high resistance, it should cause the MAFv reading to go up (output is referenced to ground, ground is ~0.1v higher than ecu ground, ECU sees a 0.1v higher signal).

 

Not looking forward to rewiring the MAF harness if that is infact what happened though... Finding the correct shielded signal wire will be a pain.

Presuming I don't find something physically wrong, that would be my guess. I had to readjust the turbo inlet when doing the EWG plumbing which necessitated moving the Grimmspeed intake a little. If the wiring is starting to go, that slight movment may have caused an issue.

 

Covertrussian had similar issues when doing inlet testing where he though the had to rescale the MAF, which 100% should not be needing for changes upstream of it. Subaru kind of cheaps out on there wires that have lots of movment (see wagon hatch issues).

 

So if the MAF ground went high resistance, it should cause the MAFv reading to go up (output is referenced to ground, ground is ~0.1v higher than ecu ground, ECU sees a 0.1v higher signal).

 

Not looking forward to rewiring the MAF harness if that is infact what happened though... Finding the correct shielded signal wire will be a pain.

Contact iwire. They most likely stock it.

Just wondering if anyone here knows how to get a hold of stocklgt. I sent him a PM but noticed he hasn't logged on in a few months now, figure this was worth a try.

 

Thanks

Ordered an upstream o2 sensor on Amazon. 70 bucks is the cheapest I ever seen this sensor. Anyone else see it cheaper than 70?

 

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Fixed it! No longer showing 310 g/sec airflow in 1st gear with only 15psi of boost...

 

I changed too many things at once to know for sure which change fixed it, but mechanically the intake and MAF looked fine. I cleaned the pre-filter and MAF to be sure, but it looks like the MAF wire going into the Grimmspeed airbox was pinched. So long term it'll require rewireing, but moving the entry point on the wire and cleaning the contacts seemed to do it.

Defogged headlights for the second time this year, washed, and adjusted rear Konis a little stiffer. Getting to the rear strut tops from inside the wagon has to be the worst design feature on this car. The WRX wagon has convenient little pop-out doors to prevent having to do just this

Fixed it! No longer showing 310 g/sec airflow in 1st gear with only 15psi of boost...

 

I changed too many things at once to know for sure which change fixed it, but mechanically the intake and MAF looked fine. I cleaned the pre-filter and MAF to be sure, but it looks like the MAF wire going into the Grimmspeed airbox was pinched. So long term it'll require rewireing, but moving the entry point on the wire and cleaning the contacts seemed to do it.

 

Glad you got it fixed (for now). The wiring--excluding the connectors/pins--running to the MAF isn't anything special. From my memory, it's just shielded 14-18ga wire. If you wanted to replace it, a relatively large gauge (14ga is surely more than large enough) shielded twisted pair would be the best solution. I'd connect the shield to chassis ground on the side opposite the MAF and leave it floating at the MAF sensor itself.

 

 

From what I remember, the stock wiring has a coaxial pair, where the coax shield is used for the low-side connection to the MAF sensor. No reason you need coax there, though, STP should be plenty sufficient.

Defogged headlights for the second time this year, washed, and adjusted rear Konis a little stiffer. Getting to the rear strut tops from inside the wagon has to be the worst design feature on this car. The WRX wagon has convenient little pop-out doors to prevent having to do just this

 

 

Two things, one great to see another blue wagon with black interior! What is your wheel and tire set up?

 

 

The other thing is, for adjusting the koni's in the rear, I made these special tools. This way the interior doesn't have to be torn apart. I can get about 1/8 - 1/4 a turn before switching orientations. It is slow but I can rotate the adjustment a full 360 through different tool combinations. I just used an angle grinder and checked the slot width on the front koni's.

Defogged headlights for the second time this year, washed, and adjusted rear Konis a little stiffer. Getting to the rear strut tops from inside the wagon has to be the worst design feature on this car. The WRX wagon has convenient little pop-out doors to prevent having to do just this

 

 

That's gotta be a wagon-only "feature" cause I have no issue with my sedan. Fold the seats down and I think it's pretty much right there behind some molding. My car came with a GT-Spec rear strut bar, though, so maybe they modified something in the install.

Just wondering if anyone here knows how to get a hold of stocklgt. I sent him a PM but noticed he hasn't logged on in a few months now, figure this was worth a try.

 

Thanks

 

I sent him a PM too with no response.

 

I'll check through my contacts and conversations. I think I've had a conversation with him through text.

Two things, one great to see another blue wagon with black interior! What is your wheel and tire set up?

 

 

The other thing is, for adjusting the koni's in the rear, I made these special tools. This way the interior doesn't have to be torn apart. I can get about 1/8 - 1/4 a turn before switching orientations. It is slow but I can rotate the adjustment a full 360 through different tool combinations. I just used an angle grinder and checked the slot width on the front koni's.

 

Thanks! Wheels are 17x8 +45 Flow One F2s from TireRack in gloss gunmetal silver. I was originally after Enkei Raijins, but those only came in 18 and I wanted more sidewall for Detroit roads. Chinese manufacture or not, I'm very happy with them. Tires are Hankook V12 Evo2s in 245/40/17. A little softer than I like, but grip well.

 

Those tools are a fantastic idea and I'm making them tonight!

That's gotta be a wagon-only "feature" cause I have no issue with my sedan. Fold the seats down and I think it's pretty much right there behind some molding. My car came with a GT-Spec rear strut bar, though, so maybe they modified something in the install.

 

Yep, wagon only. Neighbor's sedan is super easy. Lucky us!

Glad you got it fixed (for now). The wiring--excluding the connectors/pins--running to the MAF isn't anything special. From my memory, it's just shielded 14-18ga wire. If you wanted to replace it, a relatively large gauge (14ga is surely more than large enough) shielded twisted pair would be the best solution. I'd connect the shield to chassis ground on the side opposite the MAF and leave it floating at the MAF sensor itself.

 

 

From what I remember, the stock wiring has a coaxial pair, where the coax shield is used for the low-side connection to the MAF sensor. No reason you need coax there, though, STP should be plenty sufficient.

Just to add to this: The shielded portion of the maf signal wire is connected at the ecu pin C32 and the signal wire is ecu pin C23.

Well, it was actually a few days ago, but oil and filter change.

 

I ordered up a box of Motul on Amazon to get a fairly competitive price, and picked up the Purolator filter PL14615. I decided to reserve ~1 quart into an oil bottle for when it gets low, rather than try and guess when there was enough oil in the system.

 

SC

Transferred some goodies from HAMMER DOWN's block to my OG shortblock:

 

http://i.imgur.com/sboasoWl.jpg

 

Dropping the heads off tomorrow.