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How To: Install Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Without Removing Knuckles


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Reason the bracket and 3 bolts need to come out is, the bolt that goes through the bushing is long and will either hit the body or the gas tank.

 

 

 

Ok I got it back in but with the new bushings in did yours have a little play? I kinda thought they were going to be a bit firmer.

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I think that is normal for this bushings design. The arm wants to twist, but the bushing is not really designed to allow for twisting and is stationary. Arm ends up twisting on the bushing instead.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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There was no hand felt play, but after 200 miles I did see it come out a little:

attachment.php?attachmentid=271425&stc=1&d=1544420497

 

 

That looks like it needs a thick washer to keep that bushing shift in check.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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That looks like it needs a thick washer to keep that bushing shift in check.

 

I thought about that, but let me repaste what I just posted in my build thread:

 

I've been meaning to post an update to the trailing arm bushings replacement but forgot about the picture I took of it. Anyway after 200 miles my trailing arm bushing looked like this:

attachment.php?attachmentid=271425&d=1544420730

 

Here is how it looked like right after install (on the other side):

attachment.php?attachmentid=265893&stc=1&d=1528679439

 

 

At first I was thinking about simply adding a washer to put pressure on the bushing to keep it against the arm, but now that I think about it I don't think it would help. It looks like the trailing arm goes through a twisting motion throughout the travel range, while this is expected and whiteline did add somewhat of voids, it's apparently not enough. Thus the bushing ends up staying stationary, while the arm is twisting on the outside of the bushing.

 

I wonder if a convex design bushing would be a better design for this location. Similar to the SuperPro/AVO front LCA rearward bushing that allows for twisting:

attachment.php?attachmentid=260615&stc=1&d=1515648549

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...
There was no hand felt play, but after 200 miles I did see it come out a little:

attachment.php?attachmentid=271425&stc=1&d=1544420497

 

 

hey anymore updates on these and how they walked out? i’ve had good luck w whiteline bushings in the past and when i saw my trailing bushings were failing, whiteline was my first thought as a replacement but seeing how they walked out on you after 200 miles i’m curious if you saw any negatives in performance or premature failures as you put more miles on them

 

 

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It's been a couple years and they are still working just fine, I don't think they would fully come out due to U shape of the bracket. I haven't been under the car in while to see if they are visually worse though.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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  • 2 years later...

Much thanks to you guys on making this thread that I am digging up to the top again...  My son is nearing the end of replacing the entire suspension on his 09 Outback.  All struts, springs, front LCAs, ball joints replaced.  Rear he has replaced the upper control arms/bushings, all rear lower control arms/bushings and the last bit today is the large trailing arm bushings.  We used Whiteline.  LOTs of work to get the front trailing arm brackets and the OEM bushing out but with these instructions it went well.  We ended up burning them out mostly and then twisting with prybar to get the rubber and inner sleeve out and then a chisel and big hammer to get the rusted outer sleeve out of the trailing arm.  Thanks guys!

image.thumb.png.4345c2e9f62a5715c0af98138867cef8.pngimage.thumb.png.2303e5f2f420ef1779bfa81840afeb37.png

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My son did the right rear this morning and we found the cause of this outback trying go sideways on anything slick.  The right side bushing came out with no heat at all just used a large prybar and it popped out.  It was at least 1/4" worked out of the outer sleeve when we unbolted the bracket.

 

image.thumb.png.0a485524d446995dd0c67a0c1a399251.png

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