Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Power steering o-ring fix


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You either have a leak or air is still in the system. Did you go to a parking lot and do some slow lock to lock figure eight?

 

Yup, exacerbated/brought out the problem. Popped it back up on the jack stands, ran it through the engine off, lock to lock, crank engine (plug wires pulled), lock to lock, crank... repeat about 10 times. Got a good amount of bubbles out initially. What has me more worried is even with it running quietly, there's a pretty intense "shudder" moving the wheels slowly with the engine one while on the jack stands. i had a video but my phone destroyed it. Is it time to throw in the towel and get the pump swapped out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You started it at one point sending air all through the system. You need to get it out before throwing in the towel. Go get a length of hose and a male to male barb coupler. Drop that fluid and air out of the entire system and into your oil tray.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't this system bleed itself though? Turning the wheel with the wheels up runs fluid without pressure through the system and the bubbles just rise out on the reservoir? I ran that fluid through probably a dozen times?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
By the way, anyone decides they need to replace their pump, and wants to go with one from a junker ... do NOT buy it from LKQ. In fact, don't buy anything from those douche-wads. I called them, they said yes, we have one here from a car with 60,000 miles. I said great, ship it. When I got the invoice, it said the car actually had well over 100,000 miles. I called 'em and they said oh we don't guarantee the mileage on anything but power train. WTF ? They wouldn't even pay the return shipping, though they "graciously" waived the re-stock fee. And I had to call them back a couple times to actually get my refund.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
I have an accumulation of some kind of fluid, either engine oil or PS fluid that is on my pump and collecting on the timing belt cover, so I'm not certain where it's originating from. AFAIK, the pump is original with 123k miles on it, so I'm going to replace the O-ring anyways, but I'm curious to see if this is a common issue with leakage.

 

Same here, with 64,000 miles on the original pump. I don't see any leaks at the hose connections, or the shaft seal, or the pressure switch. No leak at the nearby oil pressure sender. It's a mystery. No bubbles in the reservoir, and no abnormal sensations in the steering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Best part of SBT tip is the free play measurement. Not many of us are going to have the tool to measure belt tension.

 

A Gates "Krikit" belt tension tool is only around $14, or less.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000CRDLZM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541595670&sr=1-2&keywords=krikit+belt+tension+gauge&dpID=413uQEAqFqL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got that tool years ago, and I'm probably just using it wrong, but I could not get a consistent reading at all with that thing. I just gave up and checked how many mm's of belt deflection I had where the fsm says to check.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:) I just keep going till it stops squealing.

Just replaced my alternator. Had an issue where when cold the belt would squeal before... Now not so much. Just creep up on it so it's tight enough but not too tight.

Thanks for this. Next time I have 20 bucks burning a hole in my pocket I'll add this to the tool box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

Idk the immediate answer, but I replaced the infamous o-ring recently on my specB, and I'm still getting steering chatter/surge. Fluid is full and belts are tight. Rotated the wheel from lock to lock a couple times now.

 

The rack underneath is very leak prone, good place to check. Although, mine looks dry.

 

I'd love to get this fixed without replacing the pump entirely. I've read recently that the +15 STi steering pump is a direct replacement and might even be an upgrade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see new fluid coming from the top of the pump anymore, but I don't know if the pump is dry. Sure hope not. When I replaced the o-ring recently there was plenty of fluid coming out of the pump, but everything was saturated with fluid around it. Needs cleaned up badly still. Issues seemed to get a little better right after, but now it's probably as bad as it's ever been. Need to figure this out.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for answering my slightly off topic question.

I like that the OEM fluid starts out clear and darkens as it gets

contaminated, so I will probably pick some up from the dealer.

 

Don't worry the red stuff turns black too lol just give it more time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Don’t know how I missed this thread initially, but finally found it. My car was at the dealer to get the airbag recall taken care of. I dithered for months not wanting them touching it, but finally did. Of course they had a $4000 laundry list of things I should take care of, besides the airbag(free). So in a way, they did me a favor, pointing me to a couple issues, though I won’t get into my gripes with the dash (airbag) service itself.

 

Anyway, they said I needed a new PS pump ($1250). Indeed, it was pretty gunked up, and I wasn’t paying attention since it’s hidden under the turbo’s engine cover. So cleaned it up, and sure enough, there was a slight leak around the hose elbow on the top. It was so slight that driving it around a little produced no new wetness. But sitting overnight did. Coldness??? This is the low pressure side. So put my shade tree mechanic’s pants on and splurged on a new o-ring from the dealer. New=red (orange), old= black. New might be slightly thicker, but old did not look decayed. It’s possible the old is only 40k miles old, since that’s when timing belt, water pump, pulleys were replaced. 136k on car now. Made a slight mess, but had stuffed some plastic bags over the belts and pulleys. I had twisted the hose to where it drained into a pasta sauce jar (cleaned of course) that could nestle between the radiator and the passenger fender, down low. Eventually, the reservoir was drained. But I did not attempt Deer Killer’s flush. The fluid looked brand new, clean as a whistle, but frankly, I can’t remember having it flushed by a shop...maybe awhile back, or when the timing belt was serviced...or maybe 70k miles ago??? In the last 2-3 yrs I’ve had to top off the reservoir to counteract the leak, though I didn’t know where it was coming from. All in all, I had used maybe 1/4-1/3 qt of. valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Today, I tried putting the o-ring into the pump recess first, but ended up putting it on the elbow (slightly, not snugged), then inserting the elbow into the pump body, then clinching down. Filled up the reservoir to the Max cold line, then went for a couple figure eights at steering lock in a nearby parking lot. Felt fabulous, but then it only felt bad before when it would get low (3-4 times over last 2-3 years, as mentioned above).

 

I will try to keep an eye out for further issues, but at the moment, I feel like I saved $1248. Thanks to you LegacyGT guys (or girls)!!!!!!

Edited by Impatient
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use