5th gen Clutch?

Even when the light comes on, there are still at least a couple of gallons in the tank. I also had a pretty aggressive tune, so I wanted to be sure I had as much of the good stuff in there as possible, lol.

 

Switching between 93/e85 wasn't the worst thing in the world, but I also had two cars, so it was easier to just leave the GT on E85 all summer. But I wouldn't want to switch for just the weekend or something unless I had a flex-fuel setup that could adjust the tune based on the ethanol content. Hopefully the rumors that Cobb is working on something like that are true. The Delicious Tuning setup would be nice, but it's kinda hard for us East coast guys to get out to Cali

Get about 10 of us to start a "group trip" renting a huge transporter and setup dyno tune day at delicious. Should only be a couple of thousands lol.

Once the gas light comes on I'll drive between 30 (e85) and 50 (pump) miles with an emergency gas can in the trunk (haven't needed it so far).

 

When I switched back to pump from e85 a few weeks ago my first tank showed e13 not e10 so obviously there was still a little bit of ethanol in the tank.

When doing the switch, since there would be some old gas pump/e85, would it be best to drive light for that tank full. Then on the next tank after that you can drive normally?

When doing the switch, since there would be some old gas pump/e85, would it be best to drive light for that tank full. Then on the next tank after that you can drive normally?

 

That's the general consensus. Not sure if I'll do a whole tank but at least a half or quarter tank and then fill it back up.

If you have 2 gallons left (of either E85 or 93) and fill up with 8 gallons of the other, the remainder has been diluted to 20%. If you then have 2 gallons left again of that 20% dilution, and then fill up with 16 gallons of the same, you then have a 11% dilution of the original 20%, which would amount to 2.2% dilution, or 2.2% of the fuel in the tank is still the previous fuel. Assuming you go down to 2 gallons again, and fill up with 16 more gallons, you would be down to less than 0.25% dilution.

 

So, after the first 1/2 fill up and 2nd full fill up, you would be running at the correct octane or ethanol content rating for the tune.

 

I like acumen's idea of letting the light go on, driving 20-30 miles or so to use up almost all the fuel and carrying a gallon in the trunk just in case you run out. Doing that in concert with a full fill up, you could probably be within 1% of the rating you were looking for for the fuel/tune you are using.

Edited October 28, 2015 by GTEASER

If you really want to throw a monkey wrench in the works. E85 is about a half a pound per gallon heavier than gas. So it will tend to stay lower in the tank. So the dilution ratio is no longer a constant, what with all the sloshing around and such. I am sure some math genius could figure it out and would have a blast doing such. Either way that two gallons left is going to go away pretty damn quick.

Burn off the end of the tank in the twisties, problem solved.

Unless in the twisties, all the fuel moves away from the pump in the tank... then more problems, lol

Bump to see how all of you with the South Bend Stage 2 clutch have been holding up? I was Stage I w a Brentune for a bit, been Stock for a while now, and baby my clutch, no launching, racing, daily driver only. Stock clutch is still holding fine at 84k, but I think the TOB is toast , likely from my constant traffic around here, so looking to replace the clutch, and this one seems to be highly regarded. Any reason whatsoever (longevity, easy in traffic, etc) to go South Bend Stage 1 vs 2 ? Also how much does an OEM clutch cost, since mine is a viable option given how long its lasted. The cost difference between the South Bend 1 and 2 is pretty negligible, how about either of these vs OEM replacement.

Bump for any updates/recommendations on South bend stage 1 or 2 clutch. Currently in the same situation as dawkins20 was. TOB is on its way out and figure might as well upgrade to South bend stage 1 or something similar. Car is daily driven and reliability is important, so not looking to add huge amounts of power down the road, but definitely a bit more "umph". Currently running a Cobb OTS Stage 1 map, but plan to get an etune once I upgrade BPV and TMIC. I'd appreciate any thoughts regarding the necessity of either a south bend stage 1 or 2 clutch.

My wife let my son "learn" how to drive a stick on my car. I know something was up when they parked it outside. Car smelled of burning clutch.

 

Now it is very hard to launch in first and second - forget it.

 

Is this the right part? South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Clutch Kit (FJK1001 SS O)

Also, what else can be easily done with traansmission dropped. I already plan on:

 

1) Soutbend Stage 3 clutch

2) stock flywheel

3) TSK3 kit

4) Transmission brace kit that someone fabricated for us special

My wife let my son "learn" how to drive a stick on my car. I know something was up when they parked it outside. Car smelled of burning clutch.

 

Now it is very hard to launch in first and second - forget it.

 

Is this the right part? South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Clutch Kit (FJK1001 SS O)

 

yea I believe that is the correct stage 3 daily clutch. The part# for my stage 2 daily southbend is: FJK1001-HD-O. I'm interested to see how you like the stage 3 if/when you have it in

Also, what else can be easily done with traansmission dropped. I already plan on:

 

1) Soutbend Stage 3 clutch

2) stock flywheel

3) TSK3 kit

4) Transmission brace kit that someone fabricated for us special

 

If you're gonna drop the trans vs pulling the engine, I'd say do the short shift adapter plate of your preference since it'll be much easier to access. Maybe a group N trans mount if you're looking to beef it up also

Also, what else can be easily done with traansmission dropped. I already plan on:

 

1) Soutbend Stage 3 clutch

2) stock flywheel

3) TSK3 kit

4) Transmission brace kit that someone fabricated for us special

 

All of those items were added to my car back in January. The South Bend stage 3 daily is very smooth. Easier engagement than the previous Clutch Masters FX300.

If you're gonna drop the trans vs pulling the engine, I'd say do the short shift adapter plate of your preference since it'll be much easier to access. Maybe a group N trans mount if you're looking to beef it up also

I already have that perrin adapter short throw gizmo but will order group n mount. Appreciate your input

yea I believe that is the correct stage 3 daily clutch. The part# for my stage 2 daily southbend is: FJK1001-HD-O. I'm interested to see how you like the stage 3 if/when you have it in

 

Appreciate the info. it'll be a couple of weeks. Ordered some bolts and group n mount

I got my Southbend Stage 3 installed! First impression was that clutch had less resistance than stock. So much so that I had really focus on finding sweet spot to shift, depress pedal and then release.

 

What i'm thinking is this thing is MUCH more forgiving when you just dump all that torque on release. The first day, I stalled a few times trying to use old way of shifting. waiting to feel engagement and accelerating. But the next day I just did what for the old clutch would have been a dump and that jerk and go feeling when clutch tries to catch up with torque being put on it.

 

This clutch seems as if it'd be easy to learn on. you just depress, shift, and dump. No jerking motion, just continuous movement.