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leaking fuel tank


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What I hoped was a leaking fuel filler pipe, is a leaking fuel tank. Before I order the pipe and jumped into the job, I wisely took the wagon to my buddies body shop and had them verify. I wasn't 100% sure.

 

He called and said the pipe is fine, its the front corner of the fuel tank.

 

He'll call my buddies at the local Subaru dealer Parts counter and have them order what's needed, I emailed them and gave them a heads up that he'd be calling.

 

I'll update as I know more.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Sorry I didn't have my camera with me.

 

There's a small nipple on the tank to the right of where the fuel fill pipe enters the tank, that nipple has a hose attached, that nipple rusted out and broke off.

 

New tank and drivers seat belt yes that's fraying will be at the shop Wed.

 

They had to drop the rear sub frame, exhaust and Prop shaft to get the tank out.

 

It's all laying under the car while its up on the lift.

 

The fuel fill pipe looks pretty good as dose the flex hose on the old tank.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Picked the car up today.

 

This was a bigger job then even they thought.

 

I didn't bother getting the old tank back but did get the old pipe back, decided while its out might as well replace it too.

 

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7718_zpstaz6pnyd.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7717_zpshregjmal.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7719_zpszrmjftzi.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7720_zpsgozxnpiv.jpg

 

 

They had to cut a hole in the frame rail to get the nut off the chassis bolt to lower the subframe. He showed me a picture of the hole and rusty nut on the bolt.

 

Glad I had them do the job.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Frigging salt. Hate it. Stupid NorthEast is the worst, particularly MA. All the pseudo tree huggers don't give a **** how much salt they dump into the environment.

 

One of my LGTs never saw a winter...

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Going threw the same issue EXACTLY....I got the new tank and put POR-15 around the whole thing...around the nipples and on the Lip where all the salt sits,bottom and top....now to have the job done....Sux because I just did up n down pipe and really want a tune.....time will tell

 

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Good idea about the POR-15 I have a little Fluid Film left in a can, I'll spray some around that area over the weekend.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 year later...
I'm in the exact same situation here. I'm getting a P0456, small EVAP leak. I had it smoke tested and shop #1 is telling me the tank is bad. I'm having a second shop look into it. Shop #1 gave me a quote of $1,000 to replace the tank. I'm not convinced the tank is bad. No leaks, doesn't smell like fuel. I'll let you now how it works out.
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Reading all the information on this forum about being proactive with my legacy is key to long time enjoyment has been great since 2007. I've replaced everything on her except the starter/alternator/trans/driveshaft. Next up.....lol
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reading about all these seized frame bolts have me thanking every last bit of good karma I had last fall when I pulled my subframe and gas tank, no issues there. I did replace 3 rusty looking subframe bolts with new ones. Now I am wondering if I should go back and one-by-one add anti-seize or lock tight as a sort of preventative measure.

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Anti-seize is what I use on every nut and bolt I install. I don't use lock tight not something you want to deal with if you have to remove something...

 

I even use anti-seize on the lug nuts ever since I had trouble getting one off back about 2001.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Ok, I definitely bought some time with new bolts, but next time I get a chance I will anti-seize them up. Also, good job on putting a new fuel filler in. The old one looked like it had only a few more winters in it.

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I'm in the exact same situation here. I'm getting a P0456, small EVAP leak. I had it smoke tested and shop #1 is telling me the tank is bad. I'm having a second shop look into it. Shop #1 gave me a quote of $1,000 to replace the tank. I'm not convinced the tank is bad. No leaks, doesn't smell like fuel. I'll let you now how it works out.

 

 

Well, shop #2 is telling me the same thing. Apparently there is a pin hole leak where the EVAP hose connects to the top of the tank. I was quoted the same as shop #1 for a new tank, about $1000. The tech who looked at my car told me tuning out the CEL would be an option, I’ve never had an emission test on the car. I had my car pro tuned by tuning alliance back in 2011, I don’t have an Access Port or currently any way to connect to the ECU. I’m thinking just replacing the tank is a better option unless there is a cheap and easy way to tune out the CEL. An access port and tune is almost the cost of a new tank and that would just be a bandaid anyway.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm in the same boat now. I was able to get some WaterWeld on it this summer and that helped it a bit. Saw a puddle of gas by the passenger rear yesterday. Got under her today and saw that the gas was leaking right out of my patches. I've got too many projects in the air to take this on now.

 

Any opinions on OEM vs Spectra Premium vs. Liland International? I'm leaning towards Liland as they are made in Taiwan.

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Any opinions on OEM vs Spectra Premium vs. Liland International? I'm leaning towards Liland as they are made in Taiwan.

 

can't speak to the aftermarket options, but I replaced my tank a few years ago with a used OEM tank from a 2.5i. $200 shipped off ebay and it looked brand new since it was from a southern state. Came with all of the sensors and everything which ended up being necessary since the bracketry for them on my factory tank was completely corroded.

 

also, renting a pallet jack for this job helped a bunch with removing the rear subframe as an assembly

IMG_20170919_124139.thumb.jpg.1dc0f43528df01f1132e2153b27c0071.jpg

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I think it took me like a week of tinkering with it during evenings. just because I took the opportunity to disassemble the subframe assembly, replace all of the bushings in the rear end, and clean the rust off of everything. If your only goal was to get a new tank in, it could definitely be done in a weekend.

 

getting the new tank in the car and the straps installed was kind of a pain to do by myself while laying on my back. other than that, the job isn't too bad at all

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