6MT Master Swap Thread

i also used an STI mount on my old spec.B

Ok so I just put a 05 sti 6speed in my 5eat legacy wagon with a r180 rear diff, what drive shaft will work for this setup??? I was told the 5eat driveshaft would work but it’s too short from the trans to the center mounting bearing??? Someone please help!

Ok so I just put a 05 sti 6speed in my 5eat legacy wagon with a r180 rear diff, what drive shaft will work for this setup??? I was told the 5eat driveshaft would work but it’s too short from the trans to the center mounting bearing??? Someone please help!

 

 

 

 

Wrong drive shaft, you need a A/T drive shaft out of a 4EAT, not a 5EAT.

 

 

From page #1,post #1

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=205

From ZOrrO

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN

groff,

 

copied from my last post.

 

You can, from what I heard use a drive shaft out of 05 or new legacy A/T. If the A/T driveshaft overall length is between 63.50" & 63.88". It should work.

 

If your drive shaft is around this length, it should work. Hope this helps.

 

Mike

i can CONFIRM that this works. 2005 2.5i 4EAT propshaft. works great

Edited July 8, 2018 by HAMMER DOWN

Aw shit lol ok thanks!

Just to confirm I can use a sedan 2005 2.5i Legacy driveshaft on my 05 lgt wagon with my sti 6speed Or dose the driveshaft have to be out of a 05 2.5i Legacy wagon because it’s longer then a sedan?

Just to confirm I can use a sedan 2005 2.5i Legacy driveshaft on my 05 lgt wagon with my sti 6speed Or dose the driveshaft have to be out of a 05 2.5i Legacy wagon because it’s longer then a sedan?

Yes you can use the sedan drive shaft in the wagon. The wheelbase is the same between the two, but the wagon has a slightly longer rear overhang.

Just to confirm I can use a sedan 2005 2.5i Legacy driveshaft on my 05 lgt wagon with my sti 6speed Or dose the driveshaft have to be out of a 05 2.5i Legacy wagon because it’s longer then a sedan?

 

Yes you can use the sedan drive shaft in the wagon. The wheelbase is the same between the two, but the wagon has a slightly longer rear overhang.

 

I thought it had to be a driveshaft from an automatic...or is my memory going away?

Yes - 05-09 Legacy 2.5i 4EAT driveshaft. 05-09 Outback 2.5i 4EAT will work as well, but the center carrier bearing mount is more offset, so not perfect.

Wrong drive shaft, you need a A/T drive shaft out of a 4EAT, not a 5EAT.

 

 

From page #1,post #1

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=205

From ZOrrO

 

And if you want it to be perfect, get an LGT 4EAT for a LGT swap and an Outback 4EAT shaft if going in an outback.

Carrier bearing is different a bit. Either will work but better to get it from the same car

I have a spec b drive shaft I’m gonna try to use to swap into my outback xt. My understanding is it will be a touch short but still work.

 

In regards to the slave cylinder, can I use any pull style slave cylinder or only the two part numbers listed in the first post? On eBay there are lots of sti space cylinders for sale but none match the part numbers in the first post. I’m also planning to use my stock master cylinder.

Ok so for the driveshaft the place I’m trying to buy it from said there’s two production dates and ones shorter then the other.. dose anyone know the right production date for the correct length I need? The one they have is from 5-1-05

Ok so for the driveshaft the place I’m trying to buy it from said there’s two production dates and ones shorter then the other.. dose anyone know the right production date for the correct length I need? The one they have is from 5-1-05

subi life. As long as it's a 05-09 Legacy 2.5i 4EAT (wagon or sedan) driveshaft it will fit. Not sure if you're adding an R180 rear diff and if so, you'll need to change the yoke connection. The R160 and R180 yokes are different.

 

 

 

As Scooby2.5 mentioned above, the 05-09 Outback 2.5i 4EAT (wagon - not sure if there was a 2.5I 4EAT sedan) driveshaft will also fit, but it's center carrier bearing mounting is different, so not a straight shot between the trans and the diff.

Yeah it’s just everywhere I call they ask what was the production date because one is longer then the other, I just don’t want to get one that’s too short or to long

Two part numbers

 

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_2/train/propeller_shaft/

 

 

Item Number 4 Either will work for what you need, other than the yoke-connection/flange to the differential as mentioned above if changing out the R160 for a R180, otherwise will bolt right up.

I already switched the flange on my r180rear diff so that should be fine thanks

for those converting from a 05 or 06 with the DMFW, the attached idle compensations might be useful.

 

These compensations were for a stock weight STI flywheel with a comp stage 2 clutch.

 

going from a 28+ lbs flywheel to a 19lbs flywheel had a negative effect on the return to idle behaviour. both while moving and stopped. there would be significant undershoot of the idle target, followed by some bogging of the engine while there was insufficient airflow. the attached compensation fixes this.

 

the bottom right corner of the table might not be suitable for all driving styles. I like to engage the clutch barely above idle. at a redlight about to turn green, I'll feather the engine speed slightly in anticipation. the corrections there are so the car does not think I still want it to idle and fight my pedal inputs while I'm getting ready to move. for other driving styles, it might be a good idea to leave larger correction values to decrease the chance of surging at idle in the cold (-20 or colder)

Edited August 12, 2018 by bugblatterbeast
adding a comment

I forgot to mention, idle was set to 800 rpm.

 

also, I found it necessary to decrease hot cranking fueling by about 10%. the lighter flywheel, spins up much faster and it looks like the stock cranking fueling vs RPM table has insufficient slope to it.

 

its funny, despite the STI starter being only a 1kw unit, it cranks the engine over substantially faster than the LGT starter at 1.3kw. makes sense given the reduction in moment of inertia, but I never really thought about it before...

Cross posting from another thread but my post feels more relevant here.

 

 

Well, Well..... Well. Continuing the spec b trans swap and....

 

Spent most of the day running around town grabbing stupid things I need. Mostly cause I was sore and tired from yesterday and because it seemed like a good day for it. Got the axles removed this evening and everything was ready to drop the 5mt. With a couple hours left I thought I'd wait on dropping the 5mt and I'd go ahead put the spec b diff and axles in just like you suggested.

 

Axles went in fine and I started to jack the diff up and I fought getting the diff in for an hour. Couldn't figure out why it was so hard to align the studs and rear diff mount into the frame bracket whatever. Then I'm staring at the rear diff mount and I notice its not exactly centered on the diff. Hmmmm..... I did notice scraping on the bottom of the mount earlier but didn't really think twice about it, though I should have.

 

Well...

 

The spec b rear diff mount I have is crooked on the rear diff. Then I start looking more closely at everything and the passenger side retaining plate is missing all the bolts on it that I could see and with the wrestling I was doing it was starting to separate from the diff a little. The drivers side has all the bolts on the side retainer plate.

 

Questions I now I ask myself. Granted I purchased this swap from a yard in a Omaha and had it shipped to me. I am in Minnesota.

 

Is the rear diff broke from an accident and thats why its crooked?

 

Is it broke and thats why the side plate retainer bolts are missing? Why would those bolts be missing even if it was broke?!?!?!

 

Is the trans maybe broke from this speculative accident?

 

Is it possible the rear diff is fine and I just need to bend some studs back and reseat it on the mount?

 

If the rear diff is fine do I need to have it set for backlash and preload by a professional?

 

How can I tell if the rear diff, and for that matter the trans is fine or not?

 

Can I just take the bolts off the side plate on my outback rear diff and reuse on the spec b rear diff?

 

If the rear diff is broke, but not the trans what's the cheapest way to get a replacement?

 

Oh these questions are fun ones. And upon discovering their entertainment value I decided to call it a night and quest for my answers in the morning.

 

 

Upon further research it looks like the 05/06 sti rear diff is the correctly geared r180 for my 08 spec b trans correct? So if my rear diff is broke I would need the 05/06 sti rear diff and an adapter for the drive shaft? I can get my money back on the rear diff because I am within 90 days and so its just a matter of finding a 05/06 rear diff which I think I found one. Some guys on nasioc just drilled new holes into the flange to make it work so I could do something stupid like that.

Rear diff is fine Thank goodness.

 

So, I got 80% of the way through this battle and am just remembering I have to do

Something about the nss.

 

The driveshafts not in yet, I have to sand down the input shaft to get rid of some surface rust. I think now might be a good time to take care of this nss business.

 

So there’s one in the 6mt that has to be removed and replaced with the external one in the 5mt? Is that correct? And the 6mt nss is located in the top middle of the trans?

 

And then I need to get a 6mt reverse switch from somewhere also is that correct? Then that plugs into somewhere in place of something else?

 

I searched nss in the threads but there’s no eli5 instructions and right now I have the mental capacity of a 5 year old.

 

This migh be due to the fact that the rear diff mount fell in my forehead while laying under the car. Thankfully it wasn’t the rear diff.

 

More gotchas, the shift stay rod uses a different bolt the 5mt. The shift fork I installed after the trans was in didn’t give me enough clearance to use a bolt so I got a threaded dowel and two nuts and made do with just enough room for that. Oh, and I used a Single eyelet bracket from on top the trans that I had to remove for clearance to make a reverse lockout cable bracket that didn’t come with the trans. There are only handful left in the country but my hammer and dremel made do.

Edited August 17, 2018 by xtea

Got a question for everyone that’s done a swap from 5 speed to 6 speed. So once I got the trans in I noticed my wire connectors from the harness and trans don’t click together is there a harness I can get to connect the two?

Got a question for everyone that’s done a swap from 5 speed to 6 speed. So once I got the trans in I noticed my wire connectors from the harness and trans don’t click together is there a harness I can get to connect the two?

Need to steal the adapter piece from your old transmission, if it's the part I'm thinking of.

Got a question for everyone that’s done a swap from 5 speed to 6 speed. So once I got the trans in I noticed my wire connectors from the harness and trans don’t click together is there a harness I can get to connect the two?

 

That would be your neutral safety switch and reverse sensor. You’ll need to swap those from your 5mt into the 6mt. Both are on top of the 6mt and are not not fun to get to. I had to raise the engine from the header and lower the trans to give me enough room to swap them. If you are doing this on a legacy you may not have enough room to lower the trans safely. One if not one option is to loosen the motor mounts to tilt it back. I’ve not done this and you should confirm this is a reasonable and safe route.