Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

Can't be a rear wheel bearing...can it?

 

Googled "How to check a wheel bearing" yea that's it. Like spot on. The descriptions sound exactly like it. Found JMPs posts about it in the idea threads. The timken ones seem well liked and rock auto has them for not too much. Will probably need to wait until next month though.

 

First the oil leak: did you carefully inspect the base of the oil filler neck? There is a gasket there. Mine leaked and oil slowly went down the valve cover (including part of the coil pack). Almost looks like yours. Just needs to change that gasket.

 

The clunking you hear may come from the rear swaybar/endlinks touching some other suspension part. Have a body shake the car while you are inspecting.

 

I'll try to get a look during lunch since I'll have much better light. Sun is out again. But that o-ring looked ok so I didn't change it during the assembly and it didn't seem like that was it but I can't see an obvious source and it just looks like it's splattering everywhere. Would love it to be that simple.

 

I have some kartboy rear end links so I might just go ahead and throw those in and do the wheel bearings at the same time. PO had mentioned he was "hearing a klunk from the rear end" and I have a couple of work orders showing the PO brought it up but with not solid diagnosis. Stuff like "adjusted rear trim panel." I hadn't heard it so I figured it was fine. Had my lady friend try rocking the car while I was looking at stuff but she is too tiny to move it. I couldn't move the sway bar by hand in any direction either so who knows.

My wagon has Moog hubs on the rears, works great.

So at the end of next week I'll not be driving my car for a while and then at the end of the month I'll have a few days to work on it, likely in a garage. My thoughts are I'll be doing trans and diff fluids along with rear end links and rear wheel bearings and trying to fix the power steering leak.

 

I'm not 100% on what I have to take off for the rear wheel bearings but is there anything down there that's an easy reach with everything off? I have no play in the rear cv axles but want to do anything overlapping while I have the time. I unfortunately don't have money for struts/springs/sway bar atm.

Check the DIY thread for rear wheel bearings. They can be hard to remove from the car. Some of us have had to use a slide hammer.

 

Next time I'll use Areo-Kroil instead of PB Blaster. It cost 3X as much but works much better.

 

Make sure you back off the parking brake if the rear rotors come off hard.

 

The rear hubs are pretty straight forward other then that.

 

Rear diff, make sure you can get the fill plug out, before you drain it. Don't bury the threads when put either plug back in.

That's an excellent diy. Looking through it and your thread you linked in there, it doesn't look like there's much over lap except brakes and cv joints and those are both OK for now.

 

Going to be buying my wheel bearings, a puller, and aero Kroil in the next few days. I've looked for Kroil and can never find it. Probably just going to order it.

Man mix up some acetone and atf in a spray bottle. 1:1

 

Best penetrating oil I've ever used. I keep a bottle mixed up at work and use it to help loosen fastners that have been buried in cement/concrete.

Man mix up some acetone and atf in a spray bottle. 1:1

 

Best penetrating oil I've ever used. I keep a bottle mixed up at work and use it to help loosen fastners that have been buried in cement/concrete.

 

Do you have a MSDS sheet for that mixture and is it "approved to be on site" ? The benefits of working for a large Aero-Space Corporation with Gov't contract's.

 

I'm currently trying to get Goo Be Gone on site...

 

But back on topic, I've heard that mixture works. I just need to buy a spray bottle to mix some up in.

Ohhhh we've got plenty of acetone at work. I'll try that. I've used pb blaster but a handful of times it's been lacking and considering what the rest of the vehicle was like, I'm expecting it to be a bear. I'm hoping to pull off the wheels and soak everything I need before leaving for two weeks. But I need to pull the starter for rebuild as well.

 

 

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I literally just used it to help loosen the bolts holding a butterfly valve to the bottom of a cement mixer. The condition of the valve tells you everything you need to know about how bad the bolts were.

 

This is a small company, maybe 3 people in the building (out of 50) know what an MSDS sheet is! I do what I want, I just wouldn't mix it in a Gatorade bottle.

 

Man I don't think half of what we have has to get approved. Benefits of being in R&D. Since it won't be used in manufacturing we can bring in just about whatever we want and just store the sds if it comes with one.

 

 

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Zero safety department along with zero oversight here.

 

They didn't even have a lockout/tagout program before I started. Strictly CYA around here.

That valve looks gross

 

 

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Welcome to my world.

 

I have to clean nearly everything before I can work on it.

Check the DIY thread for rear wheel bearings. They can be hard to remove from the car. Some of us have had to use a slide hammer.

 

 

I saw a FB post sayin that this tool worked for a stubborn Subaru rear wheel bearing where the traditional slide puller failed.

Wow that sure looks like it'll work. Fingers crossed I won't need to go that far. It's not a northeast vehicle so hopefully I'll be OK with penetrating oil and a puller. Luckily I'll have time that if I do need something like that, I'll be able to get it.

 

 

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That's a brutal looking tool.

 

Looks like something from the 12th century...

Alright ordered some wheel bearings from rock auto and 2 bottles of honda power steering fluid to keep that car limping along. Will still need a 32mm socket and puller but that's not terribly difficult.

 

I was looking at the FSM and some other stuff and noticed there is a bushing on that arm the wheel bearing is connected to. I see covertrussian did it without removing it from the car. Then I see that the spec b supposedly has aluminum arms there. I'm pretty sure that's the trailing arm. Then I see that there are some on car-part for various prices.

 

My question is more or less, should I go ahead and put a new bushing in there? Probably the whiteline w63398, and wire brush it and spray it with some protective paint. Or should I wait until I got an aluminum arm. Maybe get aluminum arms now although can't quickly find pricing. I mean, is the aluminum suspension components that noticeable? Max you have a wagon and a spec b, what say you?

Nvm not a fair comparison. Spec B has bilsteins.

 

Question remains the same I suppose. I want the aluminum more because I hate rust more than the performance difference.

 

 

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Speaking of safety at work, someone did something dumb in the warehouse. We think they mixed sodium hydroxide with hydrogen peroxide. I think that's what was said. All the chemists eyes bulged but what I care about is my keys are inside and my car is at work until much later when I can get a ride down there with the spare that's at my lady friends house.

Well I made the decision that I likely want the aluminum pieces but it'd also be pretty cool if they were powder coated cuz flashy or something. So for now I'll just replace the bushing. It looks like the whiteline bushings would be easy to remove in the future without damaging them. Haven't looked into various available bushings yet.

 

Pulled a learning view because it's been about a month. Not as good as the last one. I cleaned the MAF about a week ago and while the high end fuel trims went down, the low end went up. I also have some knock apparently. From what I've learned, where it's at is right about peak boost and while it's not full throttle its still under decent power. I thought about going to try and do some logging but it should start raining/snowing any minute so decided it'll have to wait.

 

I've mostly been driving around in intelligent because I prefer the throttle feel, and while that means I'm not getting full boost, maybe that's a good thing for now.

About the LCA, this time of year do the easy route for now. If you can, just wait till warmer weather to play under the car.

 

I'm not a Chemist, but we used to mix sodium hydroxide with sodium borohydride in DIH2O. Yes, I've seen a H2 fire ball on water caused by static electricity.

 

I still recommend you contact Dave at CRYO to make sure your Tune is safe. The money spent with him now, will have great return over many years of driving.

Yea it took about 3 hours for them to do whatever they did and clear the building.

 

Yea I've definitely had that thought about the cold and wet. And I know the tune isn't safe because it's the stock tune haha. I've been reading some things and was thinking about stopping some of the major issues myself. Closed open delay and the maf scaling in open loop. I know it can't really be tuned until any fueling/engine issues are resolved.

 

So if that knock is due to the normal lean in boost because bad tune problems that's easy enough. I'm going to get under the car in just a few so I can figure out exactly the leak in the power steering and then order what I need for that along with some old evap hoses. I plan to also retry the carb cleaner trick but with logging running.

 

I'll have a few days to work on it, hopefully in a garage even. So trying to get everything ahead of time sorted out.

 

 

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For the PS leak, make sure you look at that U shaped seal on the side of the pump. It's a couple bucks at the dealership.

 

I replaced that a few years back.

The ranges shown in your LV are a little strange:

-first the four maf ranges. Mine are like this: 0-5.6 / 5.6-10 / 10-40 / 40+g/s

-the x and y axes of your 2d table: you rpm range is set for a v10 . Your load range is set for a 500hp car or something like that. For context, a stage 0/1 subie should reach about 2.5 g/rev or so peak load I think. Stage 2 close to 3 g/rev. I just put a vf52 in my car and reaches about 3.2 g/rev now without too much changes to the tune. Point is we need more resolution on that table I think.

The ranges shown in your LV are a little strange:

 

-first the four maf ranges. Mine are like this: 0-5.6 / 5.6-10 / 10-40 / 40+g/s

 

-the x and y axes of your 2d table: you rpm range is set for a v10 . Your load range is set for a 500hp car or something like that. For context, a stage 0/1 subie should reach about 2.5 g/rev or so peak load I think. Stage 2 close to 3 g/rev. I just put a vf52 in my car and reaches about 3.2 g/rev now without too much changes to the tune. Point is we need more resolution on that table I think.

 

 

 

Yea.... I thought that honestly. From my monitoring before I thought 2g/rev was closing in on full throttle, hence why I was worried about the knock there.

 

Those are all default of what romraider pulls. Which didn't make sense to me so I just went with it. I may need to look for an updated definition for my ecu as those are just the ones in the main logger defs. I'll try to adjust it later and see if I can get a better image, I'm not sure how to change it, but maybe it'll be intuitive.