Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

A rush and a push and the wagon won't start


Recommended Posts

Copy pasta from WDYDTY4thGTD:

 

Finally got the wagon running. Sort of... Discovered that my turbo oil drain line wasn't fully seated (wife not happy about the driveway,) and the DP to mid gasket is leaking.

 

Spent an excessive amount of time getting the drain line clamped properly, then tightened up the DP connection, now it won't start. Tested battery and starter, both good. Signal wire to starter is good. All grounds good. Tried with a jump box jic it needed a boost to crank. I hear rapid clicking when I turn to key on engine off. Sounds like coming from the throttle body. If I try to crank it I get one half crank then it sounds like the engine locks. I can turn the engine over via the crank pulley, so that should mean engine isn't seized, right?

 

Going to pull the plugs tomorrow, but I'm kinda lost on what to check next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be pulling the plugs later today to see if they're fouled, or if the cylinders are somehow flooded.

 

Battery terminals are new, clean, and tight. Battery fully charged. Alternator is new, starter is new (put old starter back in jic, got same result.)

 

No coolant loss, no oil loss.

 

:spin::spin::spin::spin::spin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried again after charging the battery overnight?

 

If you can turn by hand, that's good.

If it can only turn part way before giving up, then it sounds like the force needed to turn over the engine is more than the starter can provide.

 

When you say "tested the battery and starter", how did you test them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember once on the race car, it wouldn't start after putting the engine in. I thought for a second and for some reason went right to the ground wire at the starter.

 

Took it off, cleaned it, put it back on, car fired right up.

 

Hopefully this is something simple too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bad news.

 

Pulled the TMIC, checked and cleaned all the grounds. Everything good there. Checked the chassis to head grounds, also good (and should be bc they were just replaced.)

 

Put a known good battery in - from the OBXT - cranked and got the same results as before.

 

Pulled the plugs, starting with cyl 2. Soon as the plug came out a rush of fuel came after it. Same with cyl 1. Plugs in 3 & 4 came out w/o a splash, but I don’t think they look good.

 

So, any idea what would cause cylinders 1 & 2 to flood? Bad injectors? Two bad injectors?

 

Pics of plugs for reference:

 

e4c07a9b3ca4dd068fb7d9ea9034b86f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to ask about hydro lock...

 

Did you mess with the injectors at all?

Sometimes the o-rings not properly sealing can lead to leaking from the fuel line into the cylinder.

You'll need to change your oil likely after you solve this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to ask about hydro lock...

 

Did you mess with the injectors at all?

Sometimes the o-rings not properly sealing can lead to leaking from the fuel line into the cylinder.

You'll need to change your oil likely after you solve this.

 

hmmm...this might have my ca's problem. sorry, OP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, plan of attack for tomorrow (or this weekend):

 

  • Mess w/injectors (they're ID1050Xs, might be worth sending them back to ID for cleaning/flow-testing as a CYA?)
     
  • Replace spark plugs
     
  • Drain oil
     
  • Refill with fresh oil (thanks Prime Day!)
     
  • Cross fingers and try to crank it again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please tell me the solution wasn't a new short block

 

not my engine but so far no. Although it does need a reseal as leaking oil everywhere. injectors came out yesterday with a cascade of fuel even after running without fuel fuse.

 

it was running with codes. trying to clear the codes without spending a fortune on parts. lots of busted parts & wtf changes exist in the engine bay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After installing my ID 1050x injectors I turned the key on w/engine off to check for leaks. I heard rapid clicking, so I immediately shut it off and what I found was that I had accidentally plugged the left over (from delete) tgv sensor plug into the injector pig tail on #4. Not sure that you’re having the same issue but the rapid clicking and flooded cylinders sounds like injectors are being energized not just stuck open.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After installing my ID 1050x injectors I turned the key on w/engine off to check for leaks. I heard rapid clicking, so I immediately shut it off and what I found was that I had accidentally plugged the left over (from delete) tgv sensor plug into the injector pig tail on #4. Not sure that you’re having the same issue but the rapid clicking and flooded cylinders sounds like injectors are being energized not just stuck open.

 

Welp. Looks like this was it. Verified wires against the FSM and confirmed that I borked it plugging everything back together. New plugs to hopefully go in tomorrow. Oil already drained and refilled. Fingers crossed that it runs and that I didn't permanently muck anything up. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got it up and running today. Still need to flash the tune to it before I try to move it though.

 

Started putting the front end back together too. Needs paint, but I think it’s going to look good with the facelift SpecB bumper.

 

aa2a7749217623397528635451d0b2d1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use