What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Do you guys keep your stock unused parts? My car is never going back to stock to I am at a turning point.

 

 

Um when I did interior swap I kept non of the tan stuff. I have the problem of having spare calipers, H&K stereo bits, and other random stuff. My car is mostly stock drive train so all my spare parts are brought in from junk yard diving...I can't walk out of a junk yard empty handed

I bought a 33 gal air compressor. I know it probably isn't enough for a full vehicle, but I'm excited to try painting my peeling hood scoop and diy grill. Maybe the bumpers.

 

Interested in how it turns out. My car is in desperate need of a paint job but I'm probably going to outsource it down the line.

Had the airbag recall done as well as a 5EAT BG transmission fluid flush/replacement. Fluid was 25k miles old. Noticeably smoother shifting

Finally decided to tow Dirty Penny as I wait for her 6 speed transplant...going to be picky and wait for a spec b 6 speed until spring, if nothing pops up, I will sell her as is and get out of the turbo modding game and get into an Acura lol. Crossing my fingers for a 6 speed of course but only time will tell.

Finally decided to tow Dirty Penny as I wait for her 6 speed transplant...going to be picky and wait for a spec b 6 speed until spring, if nothing pops up, I will sell her as is and get out of the turbo modding game and get into an Acura lol. Crossing my fingers for a 6 speed of course but only time will tell.

 

part out?

Changed out the last of the break-in oil. Was about a quart low after only 500 miles since the last change.... not happy about that. Haven't been able to notice any leaks, but have had faint smells of burning oil from under the hood occasionally (that I attributed to oil from the filter than was on the headers).

 

Left the car up on the jack stands since I also noticed the LH inner CV boot has decided to split itself and spill its CV guts everywhere . Going to be ordering a new CV boot kit and re-booting it before driving the car again. Just when I thought it was going to be smooth sailing

Finished buttoning her up for a small road trip/HPDE coming up Monday. The combination of the mass damper, Dynamat/Resonix, and fiberglass insulation has really transformed the drone inside the cabin and out. This is really gonna help on road trips, I heard somewhere ear plugs were recommended for air traffic controllers to maintain alertness. Somewhere down the line I want to do mass loaded vinyl.

 

The drone is much attenuated at my long distance cruising speed of 80 and I actually caught myself wondering what gear I was in because of the difference.

 

Installed a reman Bosch alternator that I'm returning due to the loud whine that is audible from inside the cabin. I'm gonna go with Denso. I'm guessing moisture from blowing an upper radiator hose did my original in. That said, the NAPA hose is a much better fit than OEM.

 

Also finally installed the LED rear taillights. Am I the only one that needs to reformat my posts for spacing?

Edited August 30, 2020 by Enlight

Interested in how it turns out. My car is in desperate need of a paint job but I'm probably going to outsource it down the line.

 

I have the same problem. Each side of the scoop the clear has peeled due to bad repairs/repaint after fender bender with one of the previous owners. I could basically spray paint flames, the peeling kinda looks like the flame pattern on an old firebird lol!! I opted to wrap it instead since the cost to do full a repaint will be only in a year or two. A few nicks and dents/scratches, again poor maintenance and negligence from precious owners.

The wrap I’m installing is vvivid’s black satin matt. We’ll see how it turns out on DGM. Only temporary anyways. It’s better than the skin cancer that’s on it now. Got alot of sanding to do, will update with pics.

Swapped out the LEDs on the JDM backlit cupholders. I want to keep it more uniform for my forthcoming swap.

Changed out the last of the break-in oil. Was about a quart low after only 500 miles since the last change.... not happy about that. Haven't been able to notice any leaks, but have had faint smells of burning oil from under the hood occasionally (that I attributed to oil from the filter than was on the headers).

 

Left the car up on the jack stands since I also noticed the LH inner CV boot has decided to split itself and spill its CV guts everywhere . Going to be ordering a new CV boot kit and re-booting it before driving the car again. Just when I thought it was going to be smooth sailing

 

Let us know how the reboot goes.

 

Today I put a piece of lockwire around both small ends of the inner CV boots on the Spec. there is a little seepage around the small ends of both boots.

Am I the only one that needs to reformat my posts for spacing?

 

Nope, forum software has been buggy for at least a year with that. Try using "Shift+Enter" instead of just "Enter" to avoid the double line break

 

Let us know how the reboot goes.

 

Today I put a piece of lockwire around both small ends of the inner CV boots on the Spec. there is a little seepage around the small ends of both boots.

 

Reboot looks like it'll be easy. Got back and did a little work on removing/cleaning up the old boot. Used a modified version of covertrussian's method; instead of pulling the strut bolts, I pulled the ball joint to LCA nut and got plenty of space to pull the joint out of the housing. Everything looks like it's in good shape, so I guess I'm happy to this happened so close to my oil change so I could catch it early before any damage happened. Was thinking of trying the local AutoZone/Advance to get a new boot and put it all back together tonight, but I think I'll just order online or OEM at a local dealer and do it another night instead.

 

Made some more progress on getting my red wagon back on the road. Pulled the stock center pipe and mufflers to get ready to swap over an AVO mid and Wangan axle backs. Was hoping to save the OE muffler jic the Wangans were too loud, but they've chemically bonded themselves to the old center pipe.

 

Also got the timing covers off, figured I'd do the timing belt and water pump while changing everything else. Found what looks like brand new pulleys, tensioner, belt, and water pump... Since I already have the kit, should I just replace it all? I don't know how old the stuff on there is, but's definitely been done recently.

 

Also, what are everyone's thoughts on lightweight crank pulley vs. Fluidampr vs. OEM crank pulley. I have all three at the moment, just not sure which to put on when I button it back up.

Also, what are everyone's thoughts on lightweight crank pulley vs. Fluidampr vs. OEM crank pulley. I have all three at the moment, just not sure which to put on when I button it back up.

 

If you already have all 3, Fluidampr is a no-brainer.

Got an update on the headlights from Circuit Demon and looking at a 2 week eta for when they'll be done and I can start the front end swap. In preparation for said swap I figured I needed to get moving on making the S402 fender vents some-what functional. After a little dremeling here's what I ended up with.

 

Now I need to figure out some sort of duct work/piece that will fit over the back of the vent on the inside of the fender and tapers down to where a hose can be fitted and routed to where I want in the engine bay.

I already got a reply from CVJ axles. I'd have to ship my Spec B axle to them as they don't have one in stock. 1-2 day turnaround.

I thought the spec B axles were the same as 5spd manual turbo lgt/obxt?

The 06 has a bad valve. Keep an eye out for a part out thread unless anyone wants to buy a stage 2+ legacy GT with a burnt valve. 3 port ebcs, a/f sensor, up pipe, catted down pipe, 5 speed transmission black interior, h&r springs, koni struts, kta124 kit, control arms with wl bushings, kartboy short shifter. aem 320 fuel pump, probably some more crap I'm forgetting. Edited August 31, 2020 by Dishwasher

I thought the spec B axles were the same as 5spd manual turbo lgt/obxt?

 

 

https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/CV-Axle-Front/49238069/28321AG00D.html

 

 

https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Wagon/CV-Axle-Front/49238069/28321AG00D.html

 

Yes you appear to be correct. As far as the fronts go.

 

Also appears that all the inner boots are the same...? quickly checking.

I thought the spec B axles were the same as 5spd manual turbo lgt/obxt?

 

Front axles are, but the rear Spec B axles are hybrids in order to work with the R180 diff in the rear.

Is there a good front LCA swap tutorial floating around? My OEM bushings are shot and I do happen to have a pair of aluminum front LCAs from RockAuto I purchased a year or so ago..

Its a pretty straight forward job. The hammer a 3lbs. one works well to shock the ball joint out of its socket.

 

PB Blaster will help free the rusty parts.

 

Anti-seize compound will in future maintenance.

Is there a good front LCA swap tutorial floating around? My OEM bushings are shot and I do happen to have a pair of aluminum front LCAs from RockAuto I purchased a year or so ago..

 

Easy job if you don't need to replace the ball joint: un-fasten ball joint from LCA (19mm castle nut + cotter pin), then just pull the bolts holding the LCA to the subframe and the sway bar endlink. Replace with new one, anti-seize all the things, and you're done.

 

Potentially painful job if you do need to remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Pinch bolt often seizes itself into the knuckle, and even worse, the head of the bolt will often shear right off if you're not careful (leading to hours of swearing, drilling, etc.). The only thing that'll get one stuck like this out is an acetylene torch and plenty of penetrating fluid. And once the bolt's out, then you have the fun of getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. I've done the ghetto socket method (jack up the knuckle, put a socket between the knuckle and the LCA, drop the jack as fast as possible, repeat, changing sockets as the gap increases until it pops out), but there's tools you can get to make it easier, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBJFK3C/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is there a good front LCA swap tutorial floating around? My OEM bushings are shot and I do happen to have a pair of aluminum front LCAs from RockAuto I purchased a year or so ago..

 

Covertrussian to the rescue: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/complete-bushing-guide-bl-bp-281856.html

Easy job if you don't need to replace the ball joint: un-fasten ball joint from LCA (19mm castle nut + cotter pin), then just pull the bolts holding the LCA to the subframe and the sway bar endlink. Replace with new one, anti-seize all the things, and you're done.

 

Potentially painful job if you do need to remove the ball joint from the knuckle. Pinch bolt often seizes itself into the knuckle, and even worse, the head of the bolt will often shear right off if you're not careful (leading to hours of swearing, drilling, etc.). The only thing that'll get one stuck like this out is an acetylene torch and plenty of penetrating fluid. And once the bolt's out, then you have the fun of getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. I've done the ghetto socket method (jack up the knuckle, put a socket between the knuckle and the LCA, drop the jack as fast as possible, repeat, changing sockets as the gap increases until it pops out), but there's tools you can get to make it easier, like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBJFK3C/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

 

So you're saying, pay the man to replace your ball joints, and then put on your new arms when you get it home? That sounds terrible btw. Not looking forward to that.

 

 

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So you're saying, pay the man to replace your ball joints, and then put on your new arms when you get it home? That sounds terrible btw. Not looking forward to that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Pretty much. If the ball joint's in good shape, then I wouldn't bother replacing it and keep the one that comes with the new LCA as a spare.

 

I didn't actually deal with a stuck ball joint in my own car, thankfully, but the stuck pinch bolt sheared on a friend's 2011 WRX as well as another friend's Forester. I'm lucky my car spent a relatively short span of its life in our salty New England roads.

I have to replace my passenger side ball joint, been procrastinating on it for awhile. Got the pinch bolt out, cleaned up and anti seized, but that sucker is not moving otherwise out of the knuckle. Can I really just beat on it with a hammer?