What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

 

 

 

Did you know you have to use SSM3 to 'recalibrate the clutch' after changing it?

 

 

 

Got something to do with the hill assist - its in the parking brake functions.

Never heard of this before....ever. Hundreds of clutches installed here and no one ever mentioned it so I suppose it's not a thing.

2010 Legacy FSM --- Step #5 --

I can tell you that in the SSM software the clutch percentage with my foot OFF the pedal went from 1.6% to 0 after I did the calibration.

Does 1.6% matter? IDK. I'm just doing what the FSM says. I've done clutches before, including my 2008 Legacy last year. This is the first time I've seen any kind of SSM3 use in the process.

The calibration function was in the parking brake functions. I assume it tells the hill assist when to disengage the parking brake.

Change tranny and rear diff fluids with Motul 300

Installed Grimmspeed oem flange adapter to 3” catback exhaust and no more midpipe leaks,..

Still to come, RacerX tmic with Perrin silicone hose,..WRX short shifter (if it ever gets delivered), fix my stereo, PDX Protune,..etc,..etc,..

I had my OEM Bilstein inverted struts sent out for repair. The strut inserts are fine but the guide rings they slide against inside the strut body are a bit worn and I get clunking every now and then.

I got the KW V1's on and kept the OEM Bilsteins around in case I ever need to get the KW's repaired.

Last month I bought a Blitz Sus power lm air filter from Japanparts. It's been working pretty well up to now. The car feels like it has more horsepower up top, but it might be mental. I've also been noticing better gas mileage from the new air filter, I took a 4 hour road trip to D.C. a few weeks ago and averaged 30.5 mpg on premium 93 octane fuel. Overall I'm pretty happy with my purchase.

Also, I'm looking into changing the rear diff to get better acceleration out of the car, anyone know of a good final drive ratio and what if anything else needs to be changed in the cars drivetrain to support a new diff?

Last month I bought a Blitz Sus power lm air filter from Japanparts. It's been working pretty well up to now. The car feels like it has more horsepower up top, but it might be mental. I've also been noticing better gas mileage from the new air filter, I took a 4 hour road trip to D.C. a few weeks ago and averaged 30.5 mpg on premium 93 octane fuel. Overall I'm pretty happy with my purchase.

 

 

Also, I'm looking into changing the rear diff to get better acceleration out of the car, anyone know of a good final drive ratio and what if anything else needs to be changed in the cars drivetrain to support a new diff?

Huge $$$$$$$ involved in trying to change gears ratios....both front and rear diffs would need changing or you will eat the center diff in no time

All in all a bad idea IMHO!!

Huge $$$$$$$ involved in trying to change gears ratios....both front and rear diffs would need changing or you will eat the center diff in no time

All in all a bad idea IMHO!!

Exactly this. Changing gears in a Jeep that is well supported is expensive enough, let alone our cars. Just for reference is runs about $1k a diff to regear if you take it in for a Jeep. And if you only change one diff as mentioned, you will break something quickly.

Did an oil change and swapped out my passenger rear Goodridge SS line with a warranty replacement (and now I know how to change brake lines!), as the one that was on there for just a touch over 2 years failed spectacularly. I thankfully still had enough brake pressure to still actually stop the car, but I had to low-gear limp around and down shift to brake for a solid 3 days before the part arrive. That was super fun.

Also, found out my friend has a QuickJack setup in his garage, so I can actually get my Cusco braces installed now.

Well, I finally sorted out a track day for this year. Time and money have not allowed me to make the progress I wanted on the car or do any racing this year, but tickets went up for the same track event I did last year, Subaru Speed Expo, and they're impossibly cheap to pass up: full track day for $130. So I plunged. Now, I have some things that need to get taken care of on the car before hand, and some things I'd like to have done before hand as well.

Here's my checklist. The event is September 28th, let's see how much of this I can get done before then.

Well, I finally sorted out a track day for this year. Time and money have not allowed me to make the progress I wanted on the car or do any racing this year, but tickets went up for the same track event I did last year, Subaru Speed Expo, and they're impossibly cheap to pass up: full track day for $130. So I plunged. Now, I have some things that need to get taken care of on the car before hand, and some things I'd like to have done before hand as well.

 

Here's my checklist. The event is September 28th, let's see how much of this I can get done before then.

 

You don't need all that stuff to run a track day. Make sure the car is mechanically running well and safe. Change the fluid, put some on good pads and put in some fresh brake fluid and have fun. The biggest difference in your cars ability to going to make is the driver mod.

Also, found out my friend has a QuickJack setup in his garage, so I can actually get my Cusco braces installed now.

I need better friends.

I've been staring at my car for over a week now.. Get the rear windshield replaced tomorrow and hasn't been 'safely' driveable since a squirrel acorn bombed it last week. Safelite's 'next day' is BS. takes them over a week just to get a pretty common windshield type.

Sucks as now I need to get it re-tinted too. Can't remember the percent that was installed originally (bro-in-law got it done for my wife when she bought the car by a friend of his. did good work). It's darker than legal in VA, so also need to navigate that because I want/need it to match the door windows as well.

Sucks as now I need to get it re-tinted too. Can't remember the percent that was installed originally (bro-in-law got it done for my wife when she bought the car by a friend of his. did good work). It's darker than legal in VA, so also need to navigate that because I want/need it to match the door windows as well.

If you bring it to a tint shop, they should be able to match it. My LGT was done a by a prior owner and not legal in MA. I thought the rear window was darker than the rest of the car. The tint shop brought out the light meter and they showed they were all the similair within 1%, but they did pick up that there were 3 different types of tint on my car and the prior tinter probably used scraps.

You don't need all that stuff to run a track day. Make sure the car is mechanically running well and safe. Change the fluid, put some on good pads and put in some fresh brake fluid and have fun. The biggest difference in your cars ability to going to make is the driver mod.

I know I don't need all that stuff and that a lot of it isn't essential. The pads are essential, I was on autox pads last year and I honestly exceeded their abilities, so I'm going full race pads this time. The endlinks are essential based on the state of the car (rears are till factory and are now 90k old), and honestly the front LCAs are nearly essential. My existing bushings are trashed. And the race gas tune is just going to be fun, will be surprising some STIs. I want to feel the difference between the last track day I had. A lot of that stuff on there is frivolous, I just want to see how much I can get done and feel the difference in the car.

I know I don't need all that stuff and that a lot of it isn't essential. The pads are essential, I was on autox pads last year and I honestly exceeded their abilities, so I'm going full race pads this time. The endlinks are essential based on the state of the car (rears are till factory and are now 90k old), and honestly the front LCAs are nearly essential. My existing bushings are trashed. And the race gas tune is just going to be fun, will be surprising some STIs. I want to feel the difference between the last track day I had. A lot of that stuff on there is frivolous, I just want to see how much I can get done and feel the difference in the car.

Heads up on the endlinks. I had to get new rear ones when I installed the 20mm RSB, and the Moog ones I got were way beefier than stock. I highly doubt any stress I'll put on them will ever break one.

On the flip side, apparently on of the front stock links broke on the PO and had the dealer replace both.

Now, knowing what forum I'm on, I know full well you will be getting the Kartboy endlinks regardless.

Heads up on the endlinks. I had to get new rear ones when I installed the 20mm RSB, and the Moog ones I got were way beefier than stock. I highly doubt any stress I'll put on them will ever break one.

 

On the flip side, apparently on of the front stock links broke on the PO and had the dealer replace both.

I have the 26mm FSB and 20mm RSB, Moog 15+ STI endlinks in the front but I'm still on the factory ones in the rear. I'm going Kartboy all around before the track day.

Finally got Romraider working thanks to a friend. Did a test read on my car. Now I know my Tactrix cable works!

Unfortunately the definitions I downloaded dont include my ECU version. Need to look for the right definitions online.

Finally got Romraider working thanks to a friend. Did a test read on my car. Now I know my Tactrix cable works!

 

Unfortunately the definitions I downloaded dont include my ECU version. Need to look for the right definitions online.

 

You can always pull your rom image and submit it on romraider.com for definitions if there are none currently available. It may cost you a "donation" to the team but well worth it in the long run.

Good luck man!

Dave

You can always pull your rom image and submit it on romraider.com for definitions if there are none currently available. It may cost you a "donation" to the team but well worth it in the long run.

 

Good luck man!

 

Dave

Thanks Dave! Yeah I'll probably do that if I cant find it online.