What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Not here, but have you tried bypassing the heater core to confirm that it's not a leak coming from there? Apparently that's a failure point that causes people to think their HG's are leaking. The test would be to connect the two in/out water lines that go from the engine to the firewall, and from the firewall to the engine. Cap the two that come out from the firewall, and you've bypassed the heater core. Fill and burp the system and drive it hard, and see if the water level changes after cooling back down.

New Brakes, Raysbestos all around and fluid swap.

Shop found bad relay for condenser so now I have AC.

 

Now to find a new door handle...

Now to find a new door handle...

 

What door/color?

Haven't given my car much real love in the last few months. I've given it attention, but apparently just attention isn't its love language. Need gifts for that. To that end, I've been doing a lot of internet window shopping for suspension, steering, brakes, and some visual items.

 

"Babe what if we reduce the upcoming house down payment..."

Edited June 18, 2020 by seanyb505

Bought an engine stand yesterday, picking up a rental hoist tomorrow morning. Busy weekend coming up.

Bought an engine stand yesterday, picking up a rental hoist tomorrow morning. Busy weekend coming up.

 

 

You are going in like a big boy, with bumper and headlights off the car... Doing the HGs ?

Both rear wells have rusty spots now, just noticed some bubbling on the driver side. Will have to take it to the paint shop in the fall. Duh.

Both rear wells have rusty spots now, just noticed some bubbling on the driver side. Will have to take it to the paint shop in the fall. Duh.

 

Or, spray the rust with Fluid Film. Home Depot has it by the check outs. My wagon being black, I just grind out the small rust spot, and plug the small hole with black RTV and spray Fluid Film inside the small gap in the inner fender liner.

 

Been chasing this for about 3 or 4 years now,

 

Also remember to spray under the doors behind that rubber seal on the bottom.

Also check the front edge of the rear fenders where the rear door close down at the bottom, behind the rocker panel.

Edited June 20, 2020 by Max Capacity

Or, spray the rust with Fluid Film. Home Depot has it by the check outs. My wagon being black, I just grind out the small rust spot, and plug the small hole with black RTV and spray Fluid Film inside the small gap in the inner fender liner.

 

 

 

Been chasing this for about 3 or 4 years now, [ATTACH]285237[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Also remember to spray under the doors behind that rubber seal on the bottom.

 

Also check the front edge of the rear fenders where the rear door close down at the bottom, behind the rocker panel.

I've got a rust spot in the same place there when I bought the car. Going to have to get it dealt with sanding, Bondo, and new paint eventually. But I do have fluid film around so I'm going to see what I can do about spraying those spots.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Do you have the schematics for those? Did you use any relays? JDM wires are much thicker gauge than USDM from what I recall. I have two sets sitting on the shelf for years and haven't gotten around to getting the harness done and swapping them in.

Is there more clear lines along the edge of these JDM ones where the usdm would have the amber diffuser/reflector?

Edited June 20, 2020 by SpecDubC

I feel for your vehicles on the Right coast!

You are going in like a big boy, with bumper and headlights off the car... Doing the HGs ?

 

Taking it alllll apart. First time removing a motor so the extra room is nice, plus I'm not putting it back together. Yet.

 

Keeping the motor on a stand to get the heads fixed, and to have as a backup for my wagon.

 

Another member and I worked out a deal. He's keeping most of the specB, but I get the motor, turbo and front end. I might decide to do an 08 swap eventually and wrap/paint the wagon.

 

Made progress tonight too. There's two nuts I can't move - tucked in behind the right side of the AC compressor and under the downpipe.. Those bastards aren't budging. Otherwise, just motor mounts and separate the trans if I'm not mistaken.

Made progress tonight too. There's two nuts I can't move - tucked in behind the right side of the AC compressor and under the downpipe.. Those bastards aren't budging. Otherwise, just motor mounts and separate the trans if I'm not mistaken.

 

"just"

 

If the motor's never come out before, the "separate the trans" part can be a huge PITA. Pick up some hammer-able putty knives to help separate. The dowels in the block that mate to the tranny get real stuck. Recommend anti-seize on those dowels as well as along the entire mating face to make it easier to pull next time.

 

 

I can't think of any nuts behind the AC compressor that need to be removed. The only nuts I can think of that need to be removed to pull the motor are the two on the engine mount and the 5 on the turbo/downpipe. Everything else is bolts IIRC (my memory's pretty fresh since I just got my motor back in the car yesterday).

 

Speaking of, motor's back in the car! Worked till past-dark last night, gave it a couple cranks with the plugs and fuel pump fuse out (after priming it with the DIY pressure pot as well), then got everything tidied up and connected about ready to fill the cooling system, but ended up not having enough coolant. Heading to pick up more coolant soon, then firing it up! Hoping I didn't screw anything up too bad

I bought one of those coolant filling funnel kits per recommendation of a mechanic friend. Very useful. Didn't use more than one jug of the oem coolant as I had some extra. I also have aos installed, so make sure you're dilluting it properly with distilled water and not filling the overflow res.

 

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I feel for your vehicles on the Right coast!

I'm actually in Colorado but to my knowledge this one lived in Massachusetts most it's life to 155k before me about 30k later. It's got a new lease on life though with a 125k engine.

 

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Edited June 21, 2020 by SpecDubC

Welp, couldn't free the motor/trans..

 

Motor mounts, 6 bolts and 2 nuts on the bottom on the trans, clutch fork is disengaged. Have the trans on a jack to clear the motor mounts, and the hoist on the front of the motor to pull. Going at it pulling and shaking, but can't get a seam started though.

"just"

 

If the motor's never come out before, the "separate the trans" part can be a huge PITA. Pick up some hammer-able putty knives to help separate. The dowels in the block that mate to the tranny get real stuck. Recommend anti-seize on those dowels as well as along the entire mating face to make it easier to pull next time.

 

 

I can't think of any nuts behind the AC compressor that need to be removed. The only nuts I can think of that need to be removed to pull the motor are the two on the engine mount and the 5 on the turbo/downpipe. Everything else is bolts IIRC (my memory's pretty fresh since I just got my motor back in the car yesterday).

 

Speaking of, motor's back in the car! Worked till past-dark last night, gave it a couple cranks with the plugs and fuel pump fuse out (after priming it with the DIY pressure pot as well), then got everything tidied up and connected about ready to fill the cooling system, but ended up not having enough coolant. Heading to pick up more coolant soon, then firing it up! Hoping I didn't screw anything up too bad

 

I love the feeling of having worked late into the night on a project. I don't always like doing it in the moment, especially around 930 when the wife asks if I'm coming inside soon. But there's rarely a 4-5 hour chunk of uninterrupted time during daylight, so those late night pushes are awesome.

Welp, couldn't free the motor/trans..

 

Motor mounts, 6 bolts and 2 nuts on the bottom on the trans, clutch fork is disengaged. Have the trans on a jack to clear the motor mounts, and the hoist on the front of the motor to pull. Going at it pulling and shaking, but can't get a seam started though.

 

 

Yup. Hammer, putty knife, and excessive swearing is probably the next step for you. I normally start by getting the knife near the edge of the ID code section of the block (LH side), since there's a nice flat section to line up against. Get one knife in, then slide a second one next to the first one and continue hammering.

 

 

Got mine back together, drove it about 500ft down the road, then it immediately stalled at the first stop sign, didn't want to start back up. I managed to limp it to the gas station then back home by using lots of throttle while cranking to keep it running until moving. Misfires like crazy on cyl 1, also misfires on 3 but not as much. Had to head out for the afternoon but hoping I'm back home before dark to take a look. Cyl1 plug looked fine, and I doubt the coil packs are bad. I wonder if the timing belt jumped a tooth?

Washed it and the other cars on Saturday, then took some photos with the wife's new car. Would have taken more if she didn't ask me to stop.

Is there more clear lines along the edge of these JDM ones where the usdm would have the amber diffuser/reflector?

 

Got mine back together, drove it about 500ft down the road, then it immediately stalled at the first stop sign, didn't want to start back up. I managed to limp it to the gas station then back home by using lots of throttle while cranking to keep it running until moving. Misfires like crazy on cyl 1, also misfires on 3 but not as much. Had to head out for the afternoon but hoping I'm back home before dark to take a look. Cyl1 plug looked fine, and I doubt the coil packs are bad. I wonder if the timing belt jumped a tooth?

 

Ugh. Timing is fine, swapping coils and plugs (independently) between both RH cylinders made no difference, still massive misfires on cyl1, with cyl3 in next place, then less on cyl 2/4. AFRs were going a bit lean as well. The plug originally in cyl1 looked considerably cleaner than cyl3, so I'm guessing the #1 injector is plugged. Probably some junk got into the fuel rails while the IM was sitting on my garage floor for the past month or so.

 

Not looking forward to pulling the manifold to get to the injectors. Also not looking to replace them just yet. Was going to get the car set up and tuned with the current turbo/fueling setup to get comfortable with tuning, then perhaps look into turbo/fueling upgrades next year.

 

Edit: looks like I may not need to remove the manifold, judging by an old thread at NASIOC on top-feed injector replacement. Unfortunately for current me, I ignored the advice of m sprank, opted for "safety," and didn't rid myself of the shielding brackets around the fuel rails when I added in my TGV deletes previously. But I have small dainty hands, so I'm hoping this will be easier than I'm expecting.

 

Since visual media is more fun:

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/EdvvAT2l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/xjcZMZxl.jpg

 

Video of the initial idling:

 

http://i.imgur.com/L2h13cWl.mp4

Edited June 22, 2020 by solidxsnake

Ugh. Timing is fine, swapping coils and plugs (independently) between both RH cylinders made no difference, still massive misfires on cyl1, with cyl3 in next place, then less on cyl 2/4. AFRs were going a bit lean as well. The plug originally in cyl1 looked considerably cleaner than cyl3, so I'm guessing the #1 injector is plugged. Probably some junk got into the fuel rails while the IM was sitting on my garage floor for the past month or so.

 

Not looking forward to pulling the manifold to get to the injectors. Also not looking to replace them just yet. Was going to get the car set up and tuned with the current turbo/fueling setup to get comfortable with tuning, then perhaps look into turbo/fueling upgrades next year.

 

Edit: looks like I may not need to remove the manifold, judging by an old thread at NASIOC on top-feed injector replacement. Unfortunately for current me, I ignored the advice of m sprank, opted for "safety," and didn't rid myself of the shielding brackets around the fuel rails when I added in my TGV deletes previously. But I have small dainty hands, so I'm hoping this will be easier than I'm expecting.

 

Since visual media is more fun:

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/EdvvAT2l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/xjcZMZxl.jpg

 

Video of the initial idling:

 

http://i.imgur.com/L2h13cWl.mp4

 

 

 

 

It can be done. Its just a pain. Its a little easier when you and the car are on flat ground and not standing over a set of rollers (2 feet off the ground) on a dyno.

 

 

 

Release fuel pressure so you dont get a squirt in the eye.

Woohoo!

I think I got everything done for now.

Refreshed the suspension.

JDM Bilstein -> Koni Yellows w/ Epic springs

200k mile LCA -> Mevotech Aluminum LCA w/ new ball joints

Rear lower lat arm -> Megan adjustable

+ Perrin Steering Dampener

 

As a reward to myself for surviving my first year teaching, I stumbled on some Prodrive GC010E 18x7.5 that are in minty condition.

Hard to believe they are 15yr old wheels.

Replaced my Prodrive P1 17x7 with them.

Total weight of wheels/tires, I dropped 8lbs per corner.

 

 

Picture of wagon on previous suspension and P1s

 

Picture on Konis/Epic and GC010Es

 

She sits about 1/2-3/4" lower and just about perfectly for my taste. I do have a 3/4" saggy butt spacer in the rear to keep her as level as I can.

 

Little more NVH from the Konis, but really nice and firm. Corners like she's on rails, it's unreal for this big wagon. (I'm sure there are better out there, but I don't want to drive them )

 

Now I'm on the hunt for one center cap, they are pretty elusive.

Prodrive 3150 0279

 

Next I need to plan a road trip somewhere...

Woohoo!

 

Been there, done that.

 

Now on to the next part...LOL