5th Gen Ownership - Official Random Thoughts Thread - V3

The BPV is more of a safety device, where the wastegate is supposed to be used to control the boost pressure. Because you don't want your turbo constantly trying to make 23 psi it will cause excessive heat and wear on the turbo.

The bigger issue is that 23psi is beyond the turbo's efficiency range. It just becomes a hot air pump and is more likely to cause damage to the engine.

I am seriously considering an electric cutout over new mufflers. Just thinking...

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Is there a singular thread somewhere that discusses coilovers? I don't think there is (that I know of), but it's worth asking anyway. With the wheels I have coming, I'm thinking about them a bit more than I otherwise would in order to go with a bit wider tire. What suspensions are "best" for a car is pretty subjective, but since I've never put an aftermarket suspension on a car, I need as much exposure as possible.

Also, don't tell my wife.

(a) Is there any objective evidence of the effects of installing "blast plates" on a Subaru transmission? (b) Are there any shear-and-moment diagrams showing how the "blast plates" work (just trying to understand the concept)?

So far, I have only seen anecdotal evidence (positive and negative)...

https://www.google.com/search?q=Do+blast+plates+work&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS759US759&oq=Do+blast+plates+work&aqs=chrome..69i57.6815j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

You can read for days on that subject, personally I am skeptical as to how much of a difference they will make if you are making a ton of power. But the idea behind them is mitigating transmission case flex. Which in a high torque situation, say an awd launch from a stop, is an issue. How much of an issue, it is hard to say.

For me $400 would be better off going into a 6mt retrofit than into the stock transmission, but I recognize the value in our gearing and staying with stock gearboxes.

You can read for days on that subject....

Yep, this is precisely why I asked for (a) objective evidence and (b) a shear-and-moment diagram as opposed to anecdotal evidence. :lol:

^^

Inside job if you ask me.

^^

Inside job if you ask me.

lol I had the same idea

Ahhhh!!!! She's trapped!!!

Gotta say, that's some fine artwork.

Dealer said both my heads and front timing chain cover are leaking oil. I was told the Timing chain is a "wet chain" meaning there is oil behind the cover. Is this correct? I was also told the head gaskets are not MLS but asbestos style.

I'm not 100% believing the heads are actively leaking. They cleaned it off and I'll look later to see if I notice any difference. Dealer says about $3500 to fix it. I'm going to take it to my mechanic and see what he thinks. Sucks.....

Ordered a new set of Wheels.... konig oversteer 19x8.5 +45 .... really wasn't happy with the fitment of the 19x9.5s ... it could probably work, but the work that would be involved is too much for me, also I feel it would reduce the purpose of the car.. I want to be able to drive my car without thinking... ohh I shouldn't hit that bump, or I should be careful when cornering because I might smash a fender...

19x8.5 +45 seems to be a real sweet spot for our chassis as far as increased size, improved look, and ease of fitment. Often paired with 245/40/19. Looks really nice on stock height and leaves plenty of room for lowering with little to no fender modification. I think you'll be happy with that size.

Dealer said both my heads and front timing chain cover are leaking oil. I was told the Timing chain is a "wet chain" meaning there is oil behind the cover. Is this correct? I was also told the head gaskets are not MLS but asbestos style.

 

I'm not 100% believing the heads are actively leaking. They cleaned it off and I'll look later to see if I notice any difference. Dealer says about $3500 to fix it. I'm going to take it to my mechanic and see what he thinks. Sucks.....

Should cost half of what the dealer is quoting.

Note* Don't waste your time JUST replacing the head gaskets. They will leak again if you don't replane your heads. A lot of people/shops make this mistake and wonder why their headgaskets keep leaking.

Just sounds like your head gaskets need replacing . Take it to a reputable Subaru shop or performance shop. And get a second opinion . If it is your head gaskets just get your heads replaned and install new head gaskets. I don't think you have any head lift being a 3.6r but while the heads are off you could install ARP headstuds.

 

Should cost half of what the dealer is quoting.

 

Note* Don't waste your time JUST replacing the head gaskets. They will leak again if you don't replane your heads. A lot of people/shops make this mistake and wonder why their headgaskets keep leaking.

If the head gaskets get replaced, the timing chain cover has to come off anyway so that would be fixed. The nearest subaru shop is Turn In Concepts. I know they do good work, but I feel just jumping the gun and asking how much it is to pull motor and do the work is not the way to go. They are still a 1.5 hour drive and I get shit by everyone when I take my car there and not to a local shop. My wife got so pissed when I took my WRX there for tranny work I thought she was going to throw me out of the house. haha :spin:

19x8.5 +45 seems to be a real sweet spot for our chassis as far as increased size, improved look, and ease of fitment. Often paired with 245/40/19. Looks really nice on stock height and leaves plenty of room for lowering with little to no fender modification. I think you'll be happy with that size.

I know I'll be happy .. I'm going to be running the same specs as my first build...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-2012gt-build-thread-201999.html

If the head gaskets get replaced, the timing chain cover has to come off anyway so that would be fixed. The nearest subaru shop is Turn In Concepts. I know they do good work, but I feel just jumping the gun and asking how much it is to pull motor and do the work is not the way to go. They are still a 1.5 hour drive and I get shit by everyone when I take my car there and not to a local shop. My wife got so pissed when I took my WRX there for tranny work I thought she was going to throw me out of the house. haha :spin:

Well here is 24 hours after the dealer said they cleaned off the oil and said my heads are leaking.

I created an album https://imgur.com/a/Q6MC5

The only wet oil is by the oil filter/oil cooler and the timing cover. The heads look the same they did from April 2017.

So they didn't clean anything. I'm taking it to my mechanic and not touching anything until they look at it. Honestly it looks like timing chain cover around oil cooler, or oil cooler gasket. All the oil around the heads in these photos are not wet, but caked on.

Ahhhh!!!! She's trapped!!!

Instead of repairing, swap it out for a high lift jackshaft opener! Looks like you have a pretty tall ceiling there..

Theoretical question

I was talking with my friends about my Legacy GT and start talking mods I have planned for this year, which led into a possible (and somewhat likely) short block replacement in the future. I of course would do the work of R & R the motor. The question came up what would I drive while my Legacy was down? My quick response was hopefully it will happen during nice weather, so I can just use my GMC Syclone as my daily. I figure it will take about a month to gather parts, assemble the motor, and labor.

Their follow up was what if it happen in the middle of the winter or my truck isn't drivable at the moment? [sometimes my Syclone isn't always together and their is always the potential for it to break down as well given its age and that I race it from time to time.] It was a good question that I don't a have a good answer for. If it happens in 2-3 years from now I probably would just buy a new Forester XT or Outback and move up one piece of my long term plan of WRX and SUV. Prior to the that time period, I probably don't have the money to comfortably afford a new car payment & additional insurance.

Do I buy a used cheaper Subaru and sell afterward or just keep that as winter driver? (Thinking a reliable 2.5i)

Do I rent a car for a month? (Probably cost me $1000)

Do I lease a relatively cheap new car?

Do I buy new WRX and sell Legacy GT after reassembly? (I like my GT, so probably not this option though)

This question could also come up when I am due for a clutch or TOB, but I will at least have some warning with the clutch replacement for plan purposes.

Well here is 24 hours after the dealer said they cleaned off the oil and said my heads are leaking.

I created an album https://imgur.com/a/Q6MC5

 

The only wet oil is by the oil filter/oil cooler and the timing cover. The heads look the same they did from April 2017.

 

So they didn't clean anything. I'm taking it to my mechanic and not touching anything until they look at it. Honestly it looks like timing chain cover around oil cooler, or oil cooler gasket. All the oil around the heads in these photos are not wet, but caked on.

I definitely wouldn't pull the motor to fix small weeping oil leaks around the heads at this point. I don't know about the 3.6R, but I would think you would be able to fix the timing cover/oil cooler gasket with the motor installed, probably need to just pull the radiator or fans like doing a timing belt in a EJ25 engine.

Theoretical question

 

I was talking with my friends about my Legacy GT and start talking mods I have planned for this year, which led into a possible (and somewhat likely) short block replacement in the future. I of course would do the work of R & R the motor. The question came up what would I drive while my Legacy was down? My quick response was hopefully it will happen during nice weather, so I can just use my GMC Syclone as my daily. I figure it will take about a month to gather parts, assemble the motor, and labor.

 

Their follow up was what if it happen in the middle of the winter or my truck isn't drivable at the moment? [sometimes my Syclone isn't always together and their is always the potential for it to break down as well given its age and that I race it from time to time.] It was a good question that I don't a have a good answer for. If it happens in 2-3 years from now I probably would just buy a new Forester XT or Outback and move up one piece of my long term plan of WRX and SUV. Prior to the that time period, I probably don't have the money to comfortably afford a new car payment & additional insurance.

 

Do I buy a used cheaper Subaru and sell afterward or just keep that as winter driver? (Thinking a reliable 2.5i)

Do I rent a car for a month? (Probably cost me $1000)

Do I lease a relatively cheap new car?

Do I buy new WRX and sell Legacy GT after reassembly? (I like my GT, so probably not this option though)

 

This question could also come up when I am due for a clutch or TOB, but I will at least have some warning with the clutch replacement for plan purposes.

Buy a cheap beater. Doesn't have to be a subaru. I've found you'll end up using it more than you think.