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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I'm still experimenting. This was my 2nd time doing plugs on this. It did go faster, but I tried that little shortcut that I thought of and lost all of the time I saved. Still learning..

 

Scotty

 

The method that worked well for me was. Loosen up engine mounts and then use a 2x4 to pry the engine up just a little bit. That gave me enough room to "easily" get my hands in there to remove the plugs. There was still some finesse to it, but significantly less so.

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Yeah a couple misc extensions and a swivel ratchet makes it pretty easy I've always thought, but practice definitely makes perfect. I've done plugs 3-4 times now and probably takes 2hrs start to finish. No lifting the motor, but I'll remove battery and air box.

 

Sent funds for JDM bumper just 20 min ago.

 

Yeah I usually assemble the socket, extension, and wrench, inside the spark plug tube. It's a pain, but that's the only way I've figured out how to do it with the tools I have.

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Has anyone tried the clear lamin-x after polishing?

 

 

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I use lamin-x on mine since I bought the car. Did the same with 05OB after polishing its headlights and it's all good.

 

 

 

I tried different snake oil receipies for UV protection on wife's Tribeca and middle kid's 2010 OB but those last like 3-4 months before starting to yellow again. Probably just need to spend time/money and have them professionally laminated - I've seen photos of the process but my heat gun skills are not up to the task.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Yeah I usually assemble the socket, extension, and wrench, inside the spark plug tube. It's a pain, but that's the only way I've figured out how to do it with the tools I have.

 

Agreed, it's a combination of assembling 3-4 tools differently.

 

My memory is to use the socket and a medium extension together to get everything seated by hand, both coming out and putting back in, then set the wrench. A lot of the job is using the socket and extension by hand, until you need to tighten/loosen.

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I always did the assemble-many-extensions-as-as-you-insert method until I tried jacking the motor. It sounds intimidating, but you just do one side at a time. Undo the one motor mount bolt and one of the dogbone bolts, put a 2x4 under the oil pan, and raise that side of the motor 2". Since the other side motor mount is still bolted up, then the motor falls right back into place when you're done with that side, and you just bolt it back up and move on to the other side. With this method, you can do plugs in 20-30 mins and no scraped up knuckles!
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I use lamin-x on mine since I bought the car. Did the same with 05OB after polishing its headlights and it's all good.

 

 

 

I tried different snake oil receipies for UV protection on wife's Tribeca and middle kid's 2010 OB but those last like 3-4 months before starting to yellow again. Probably just need to spend time/money and have them professionally laminated - I've seen photos of the process but my heat gun skills are not up to the task.

 

 

 

Good to know. When I got my windows tinted, they quoted me $120 for polishing and film covering, probably something similar to lamin-x. Was thinking of going that route if I ever get new lights.

 

 

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With this method' date=' you can do plugs in 20-30 mins and no scraped up knuckles![/quote']

 

I'm already about there without having to get under the car at all. If I had a lift, I'd probably try it, but one of the things I hate the most is the process of lifting the car onto jackstands with a floor jack, especially within the confines of my garage. Mostly because it's lowered and trying to position the jack correctly is a huge PITA since the undertray mostly obscures the view of the front jacking point.

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I'm already about there without having to get under the car at all. If I had a lift, I'd probably try it, but one of the things I hate the most is the process of lifting the car onto jackstands with a floor jack, especially within the confines of my garage. Mostly because it's lowered and trying to position the jack correctly is a huge PITA since the undertray mostly obscures the view of the front jacking point.

 

 

 

Skid plate makes finding the jack point super easy. The rear bolt goes through the jack point so you just center it on that bolt.

 

 

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I'm already about there without having to get under the car at all. If I had a lift, I'd probably try it, but one of the things I hate the most is the process of lifting the car onto jackstands with a floor jack, especially within the confines of my garage. Mostly because it's lowered and trying to position the jack correctly is a huge PITA since the undertray mostly obscures the view of the front jacking point.

 

Ditto on lowered car. I did however bite the bullet and bought HF lowered long reach 3 ton jack which is heavy as hell but has no issues raising my lowered wagon in few pumps.

 

I did replace plugs on LGT while engine was out for 6MT swap and I have about 40K to go before the plugs are due. I did replace plugs on 05OB using collection of adapters and it was eventless. I think NA is narrower than turbo engine though.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Skid plate makes finding the jack point super easy. The rear bolt goes through the jack point so you just center it on that bolt.

 

My undertray is warped and ripped so may be that's a way to kill 2 birds with one stone.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Ugh. Car started getting into limp mode again. Engine cuts power and stays at 2000 rpm. Pretty annoying (and dangerous) when it happens early morning on the highway. I had similar issue last winter and fixed it by pulling and clearing gas pedal connector and lint from the cable. Not sure what it is this time around. Hope its' not going to need new throttle body, even though I still have the original. Code is 1518 iirc.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Skid plate makes finding the jack point super easy. The rear bolt goes through the jack point so you just center it on that bolt.

 

 

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What he said:

 

My undertray is warped and ripped so may be that's a way to kill 2 birds with one stone.

 

The undertray on my car is so warped I can't see the jack point, I feel for that bolt and position the jack that way :spin:

 

Now that the car is no longer a daily, a skid-plate may be a good "nice-to-have" option. Wasn't interested in an aftermarket skid-plate as a daily with all the salt on the roads up here in MA, since none of them have the fender guards AFAIK.

 

Ordered a Spartan2 wideband controller + sensor last night. Probably going to pick up a leaking 2011 STi steering rack from a friend to salvage tie rod, boot, and hardlines from for my junkyard 15+ STi rack (since that will be cheaper than buying the parts from a dealer).

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Now that the car is no longer a daily, a skid-plate may be a good "nice-to-have" option. Wasn't interested in an aftermarket skid-plate as a daily with all the salt on the roads up here in MA, since none of them have the fender guards AFAIK.

 

 

I have the primitive racing plate and it does not. You can cut up the stock tray or possible use the separate fender guards for the NA. I found them irritating to get that side clip off so I just left the gap. Didn't really think about road salt though....

 

 

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Ugh. Car started getting into limp mode again. Engine cuts power and stays at 2000 rpm. Pretty annoying (and dangerous) when it happens early morning on the highway. I had similar issue last winter and fixed it by pulling and clearing gas pedal connector and lint from the cable. Not sure what it is this time around. Hope its' not going to need new throttle body, even though I still have the original. Code is 1518 iirc.

 

You need a new pedal ass. I had this happen on my 08. Bought a new pedal after clearing the code and having the same problems you did. Never had an issues again.

 

It Drive by wire. I also tried all the tricks to get it to work.:spin:

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Aerodynamics and increased airflow through the TMIC!

 

 

 

He's got the grimmspeed tmic though so idk how that changes things.

 

I wanted it to for desert driving honestly. Or else I probably wouldn't have gotten it either. Haven't gone off road but when I see it I feel kewl raly rasekar

 

 

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He's got the grimmspeed tmic though so idk how that changes things.

 

I wanted it to for desert driving honestly. Or else I probably wouldn't have gotten it either. Haven't gone off road but when I see it I feel kewl raly rasekar

 

 

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my racekar skid plate has 2" holes everywhere.

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Not so much what I did but another LGT pulled up behind me early this morning in Wexford and revved it in neutral - sounded pretty good. I wanted to reciprocate but being in a 5EAT makes that a little tough. Rare to see these cars around - wonder if it was a fellow LGT forum member.
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Not so much what I did but another LGT pulled up behind me early this morning in Wexford and revved it in neutral - sounded pretty good. I wanted to reciprocate but being in a 5EAT makes that a little tough. Rare to see these cars around - wonder if it was a fellow LGT forum member.

 

I rev on all Subaru peeps, out of love not to race. We trade pulls back and fourth, thumbs up and then go our separate ways.

 

there is a clapped out boosted 240 that some young kid drives that I will have to teach him who runs things when my car is done. :cool:

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I rev on all Subaru peeps, out of love not to race. We trade pulls back and fourth, thumbs up and then go our separate ways.

 

there is a clapped out boosted 240 that some young kid drives that I will have to teach him who runs things when my car is done. :cool:

 

While I cannot share the whole revving aspect of your interaction, all else is how my interactions on the road go. Especially, when I am dealing with other Leggys or Outbacks. Feels good.

 

 

Stock-exhaust-gang! I've been considering doing something like ThePickle wanted to do, but it's not a priority rn.

MILKRUN  - Click Here

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I live for the moments when senior citizens compliment my wagon. Even better when they're driving Subarus. It's happened more times than I can count on my fingers since I got the car put together.

 

Reeeeeeeallly makes me want to get a vanity plate that says NPRDAD or KNITFRK

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amm203, thanks for the rec on the electric impact. I have a Crappy Tire one but it lacks torque and my batteries don't hold a charge anymore. :(

 

What are your thoughts between that and an air impact?

 

Did the other side bearing last night, the 4 bolts came off much easier with a breaker bar with an extendable handle.. but the whole works is rusted and seized to the hub/trailing arm/watchamacallit. Doused it in penetrating oil last night, about to finish breakfast to go wail on it some more...

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What are your thoughts between that and an air impact?

 

 

 

 

 

I'd also be interested on people's thoughts about this. Getting ready to move so I'll have space for an air compressor. But could also just go for an electric impact. I don't envision getting a very big or expensive air compressor.

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