Solved! Misfire cylinder 1, 3, 5 and P0014.

Thought I would post this in case someone else is having a similar problem and can't figure out how to fix it.

A couple of weeks I got a check engine light. The dash lit up while I was driving and when I got home a scan showed that it threw codes P0301, P0303 and P0305. Miisfire in cyliders 1, 3 and 5. All three on the passenger side. Car ran fine, no weird noises, no noticeable performance issues, and no rough idle. I cleared it and it would come back 10 miles later. I inspected the spark plugs, ignition coils, O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF, and checked anything else I could think of.

I was at a loss until I decided to run FreeSSM while driving. I noticed that this time a new code came up that I haven't seen before, P0014. The code read as "Exhaust Active Valve Contol System (AVCS) System 1 (Range/Performance)".

http://img.fae.ro/411492.png

This was new and I thought that it's probably not a coincident. Interestingly enough it cleared itself and I wouldn't have seen it if I didn't have FreeSSM hooked up while driving. So I did a little research online and found this diagnostic procedure.

http://img.fae.ro/e4ad09.jpeg

I followed the directions and ran FreeSSM with the following measuring blocks;

Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Retard Angle (Exhaust)

Oil Flow Control Solenoid Valve (OCV) Duty (Exhaust)

I checked both left and right sides and compared them. From my understanding the left and right angle should match. FreeSSM showed that while the left angle moved up and down as the RPM's did the right one didn't follow. It would either stay at zero or suddenly jump high/drop low. You can see in the picture below the left is at 10 and right is at 0. They should have both been at 10.

http://img.fae.ro/e900e1.png

I decided to flush my engine oil according the the procedure and clean the right exhaust side OCV. I took it out and it appeared fine. It moved with no issue and it's resistance checked fine with my multimeter. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and popped it back in. The check engine codes came back within 10 miles. FreeSSM showed no change. I went to my dealer and got a replacement for $80 bucks (part# 10921AA190).

http://img.fae.ro/551ee2.png

I test drove the car with FreeSSM running and the left and right angles matched almost perfectly. They finally stayed within a couple degrees of one another. I've been driving the car and no check engine light so far.

As far as replacing the OCV it's very simple. There's four of them but this one is on the bottom of the passenger side of the engine, right below the spark plug coils on that side. It's attached by one 10mm bolt.

Very good work! Thanks for sharing the troubleshooting writeup.

You can do the same with BtSsm on most 2005-2016 Subarus with polling rates as low as 15-25msec! Logging VVT, OCV, OSV, both on the intake an exhaust L and R sides as applicable, Injector DCs, Fuel Pump DCs, Learned Timing, Total Timing, WGDC, IAM, FKC, FLKC, KCA, Intake, Engine Oil, Coolant, Fuel, Exhaust Temps, etc.

I was at a loss until I decided to run FreeSSM while driving. I noticed that this time a new code came up that I haven't seen before, P0014. The code read as "Exhaust Active Valve Contol System (AVCS) System 1 (Range/Performance)".

Without highjacking this thread ...

I was wondering what kind of cable you use to connect to your Legacy? I'd like to do some diagnostics on the engine and am wondering what kind of cable to buy. Possibly from ebay. Feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks

This is the exact one I bought. Eight bucks and gets the job done.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WIN8VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]Amazon.com: Eastvita® 20 Pin to OBD Obd2 Obdii DLC 16 Pin Car Diagnostic Adapter Converter Cable for KIA (Blue): Automotive[/ame]

Good job on running down the diagnosis! Had you found this thread, it could've saved you some leg work...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cylinder-misfires-bad-injectors-please-post-here-85099p43.html

Mine was never really resolved. It came back again and again but only as misfires. One day a couple weeks ago I actually captured a P0014 with my generic code reader. Metal, I did as you described in your first entry, to take it out clean and actuate it with a 9V battery. All seemed to function just fine and, while re-installing I found the ground strap on that side of the motor was disintegrating. A $6 pre-made Dorman off the HELP rack at AZ took care of that. Today it happened again so I dropped in to the local dealer and got one for $102. Only time will tell with daily driving...

And, if you know anything about Jeeps, I'm trying to work my way through a "starts but won't run" condition with a set of DTCs (P1698, P1687 & P1686) in my 2000 GC Ltd.

And, if you know anything about Jeeps, I'm trying to work my way through a "starts but won't run" condition with a set of DTCs (P1698, P1687 & P1686) in my 2000 GC Ltd.

"Starts but won't run" is sometimes an immobilizer thing.

But with all those three codes, especially P1686, the immobilizer thing is just part of the symptoms and you should check the wiring harnesses for damage and shorts. Low battery voltage can sometimes cause multiple problems.

It could even be a worn ignition lock causing intermittent voltage supply to some ECUs. Also check fuses, fuse sockets and relays as a dying relay can also give troubles like this.

Aftermarket installed instrumentation that goes on the CAN bus are also things that can cause trouble.

https://www.autocodes.com/p1698_chrysler.html

https://www.engine-codes.com/p1687.html

https://www.engine-codes.com/p1686.html

(Sorry for turning off-topic)

...Low battery voltage can sometimes cause multiple problems...

Very much this. Starts but won't run happened to two friends, one with a GC and the other with a Durango, both with the 4.7l V8. Bad batteries. The Durango would stay running if you revved it but would stall at idle, apparently the charging system can't sustain the basic electric load while trying to charge a bad battery.

Yeah, thanks for the insights. I got past the issue and this battery is fresh. My GC is back to normal until the next thing in this, my 17 y/o toy. I did some good old fashioned grunt-work under the dash and fixed a few tired old things.

I'm glad you mentioned low voltage though and I thank you for the kick in my complacency. It was high on my list for a minute as the battery in my Legacy is original from 2010, but then I looked away. I load tested the system, monitored good voltages under load and was happy with the numbers, but still, it's time for a new battery and I'm open to suggestions. There is history of an intermittent main 120A fuse too, which does cause a degree of nagging doubt for the alternator. It only goes to show that keeping these whips past their prime, about 6 years by my estimation, is not for the faint of heart unless you can be your own tech.

Hello:

I read with great interest your post regarding code p0014 as I am experiencing the same problem with cylinder 1 3 5 misfire in my 2011 Legacy Limited 3.6. My understanding is that the malfunctioning exhaust control valve is at the front of the engine but down at the bottom (the top solenoid is the intake valve) on the passenger side. Is that correct?

I can barely see the unit. How did you replace it--do you work from the top or underneath the car?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide. I have been struggling with this for quite some time and just recently got the proper diagnostic scanner working.

Bob

Hello:

I read with great interest your post regarding code p0014 as I am experiencing the same problem with cylinder 1 3 5 misfire in my 2011 Legacy Limited 3.6. My understanding is that the malfunctioning exhaust control valve is at the front of the engine but down at the bottom (the top solenoid is the intake valve) on the passenger side. Is that correct?

 

I can barely see the unit. How did you replace it--do you work from the top or underneath the car?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide. I have been struggling with this for quite some time and just recently got the proper diagnostic scanner working.

 

Bob

I don't have a 3.6R, but the EJ 2.5 would be a lot easier to get the exhaust OCV from the bottom once the splash shields are removed.