NEED HELP ASAP (Cylinder 2 misfire driving me insane.)

Ok everyone I'm finally breaking down and asking for help. First off I'm a retired Tech, though not Subaru unfortunately. So I do know my way around an engine lol. I have a 05 lgt it was throwing random misfires on every cylinder. To date I have tested all coils replaced one that was bad with oem one. Replaced both oil control valves new one. Tested the map sensor it's fine. Did a smoke test and found tons of vacuum leaks. Replaced upper manifold o ring gaskets, throttle body gasket. Removed the turbo inlet pipe completely cleaned so I could check for damage it was fine. Also did same to throttle body hose it also was fine. Replaced all hard or damaged vacuum lines with new ones. Put everything back together. And no more vacuum leaks. Now I'm only getting a random cylinder 2 misfire. Most of the time it won't even throw a hard code it just goes into pending codes. I have swapped coils, injector, and even spark plug with cylinder 1 and 4. The misfire never followed. I have done a compression test on all 4 cylinders and all were within 3psi of each other. I then used a scope to look at the piston and cylinder walls of each cylinder and no damage to anything just some carbon buildup but not really much of it. Also checked shaft play on turbo and none at all. Also no oil residue in the intake tubes. There might be more I'm forgetting lol. I love this car but my wife is getting tired of me working on it and it still messing up. So if anyone can help me please do. Also I checked the gap on the plugs (which were the factory ones I'm sure) the gap was at least twice if not more than the .31 I carefully closed the gap to .3-.35 and have new ngk 7913 ordered and should be here next week. You can feel the rough idle and sometimes it is hard to start as it will just crank and crank. After I cycle the key a couple times it will start and idle rough. There are no exhaust leaks except for the connection right behind the muffler. Also the car only has 87000 original miles and is completely stock.

Thank you in advance for any and all help.

sometimes the coil pack plug can lose strong contact with the coilpack. I can't remember the thread but read you can slightly twist the male side of the connector to get a better connection.

Hmm that's an idea I haven't thought of I know all of the female connectors have the clip to hold it on still but not sure how tight the connection is. I also used the electrical grease on all of the ignition conne tion spots ie. Plugs, and spark plugs.

Check the valve clearance.

Can thoes be checked while the engine is still in the car? Are these engines prone to valves needing relashed?

It is possible, but tight according to other posters.

I was having similar issues. Chasing intermittent misfires that sometimes showed and sometimes didn't. One coil melted itself and the other needed to have the coil plug connector replaced. I did all 4 while I was at it. I think it was $18 off Amazon for 4 pigtails. Greasing the bad connector did not help at all, nor did replacing the coil. Really an odd issue but surprisingly common.

I just got pending codes for all 4 cylinder misfires. And a hard code for cylinder 2. Does anyone know if a faulty crank or can sensors could be causing this? Or what else other than the ecm could affect all 4 cylinders

Do you have BtSsm or another means of monitoring misfires/roughness? Seeing how many misfires we're talking about, in what RPM ranges, may help.

I just got pending codes for all 4 cylinder misfires. And a hard code for cylinder 2. Does anyone know if a faulty crank or can sensors could be causing this? Or what else other than the ecm could affect all 4 cylinders

 

Leaking intake manifold gaskets can do it. If this is it, more likely to be the four little rubber ones between the intake manifold and the TGVs.

OP has smoke tested; how do the fuel trims look now? BtSSM or the like would be a big help here as well.

I already replaced all the gaskets and vacuum lines. And smoke tested everything afterward and no leaks. I don't have catalog just a scan tool. But it doesent have that kind of log. What is the cheapest log tool? What is btssm?

Cheapest tool is a VAG-COM cable with FreeSSM. BtSSM is The Bomb, google away.

Ok so I looked up the btssm and I think the vag com cable with the ssm app. But I have a few ?s first will any vag com cable work? And will the ssm app work with both my phone and laptop with win 10? And do I have to buy the app twice or just once and install it on both devices?

Any VAG-COM cable will do. BtSsm is Android, FreeSSM is Windows.

Oh ok.which is better btssm or freessm? And is freessm free?

Oh ok.which is better btssm or freessm? And is freessm free?

BtSsm. Yes.

Ok cool thx. Also I'm kinda leaning towards a bad crank sensor and or cam sensors. Our cars only has 2 cam sensors right? And everything I've read matches my symptoms of a bad crank sensor. Do you think this could be the problem?

Maybe but that is rare.

 

As relative4 said, get BtSsm ASAP, start logging and let us know what you see. That will help a lot.

I'm going to try and get it soon. But be getting the crank sensor this week

Ok I replaced both the crank and cam sensors and it still feels like there's a miss the cables are going to be here Mon so I can start logging and maybe with me posting the logs y'all can help me figure out where this miss is coming from. Also does anyone know of a good video or something that can help me figure out how to use the btssm software? I haven't found the best vids on YouTube.

Ok guys here are the first logs I did one is a hard pull once engine is at operating temp. And the others are at idle or high idle.

BtSsm_20190225_113014.csv

BtSsm_20190225_113046.csv

BtSsm_20190225_114439.csv

BtSsm_20190225_114531_knock.csv

BtSsm_20190225_114755.csv

Can you also pull an LV? This way, we can quickly see all of your four long term fuel trims.

 

 

I can see in almost all logs that #2 is misfiring. Not super high but consistently misfiring. If you've checked everything already (coil, injector, plug, cam sensor, intake orings), then now is the time to check valve clearances.

I'm going to try to pull a lv the ones I pulled already is blank because I reset the ecm. I have noticed that when engine is cold it misfires way more than when it's warm. Is this normal if the valves need adjusted?

Also, it appears that you reset the ECU prior to doing these logs? Cause a couple of the early logs have a 0.5 IAM. But then it went to 1.0 (which is good).